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FROM  THE  LIBRARY  OF 


WILLIAM   DUNCAN   McKIM 

GRADUATE  OF 

COLUMBIA  UNIVERSITY 

A.  B.,  1875;  A.  M.,  1878;  M.  D.,  1878 


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Digitized  by  the  Internet  Arciiive 

in  2010  witii  funding  from 

Open  Knowledge  Commons 


http://www.archive.org/details/freshairhowtouseOOcarr 


Fresh  Air  and  How  to  Use  It 

By 

THOMAS  SPEES  CARRINGTON,  M.D. 


A  house  among  the  leaves,  twelve  feet  above  the  ground,  for  open-air 
living  and  sleeping.     (For  a  description  see  page  163.) 


FRESH  AIR 

AND 

HOW  TO  USE  IT 


BY 

THOMAS   SPEES    CARRINGTOxN,  M.D. 

Assistant  Secretary  of  the  National  Association 
for  the  Study  and  Prevention  of  Tubercu- 
losis; Author  of  "  Tuberculosis 
Hospital   and    Sanator- 
ium Construction  " 


THE  NATIONAL  ASSOCIATION  FOR  THE  STUDY 

AND  PREVENTION  OF  TUBERCULOSIS 

10.5  E.  22nd  ST.,  NEW  YORK 

1912 


£a3 


Copyright,  1912,  by 

The  National  Association  for  the  Study  and 

Prevention  of  Tuberculosis 


PRESS  OF  WM.  F.  FELL  CO. 
PHILADELPHIA 


Preface 

There  is  no  point  at  which  the  campaign  against  tuber- 
culosis has  had  a  more  beneficial  effect  on  popular  opinion 
than  in  the  change  of  attitude  toward  the  value  of  fresh 
air  both  in  health  and  disease.  Emphasized  first  as  an 
agent  of  cure,  the  public  is  now  beginning  to  recognize  its 
value  as  a  mode  of  prevention. 

There  has  resulted  a  demand  for  advice  and  information 
as  to  methods  of  obtaining  fresh  air  which  the  National 
Association  for  the  Study  and  Prevention  of  Tuberculosis 
is  endeavoring  to  meet  by  the  publication  of  the  present 
volume.  In  preparing  this  book  Dr.  Carrington  has  kept 
constantly  in  mind  the  practical  difficulties  which  the 
modern  house  dweller  must  meet  in  his  attempt  to  avoid 
the  evils  of  our  present  methods  of  construction.  These 
difficulties  serve  also  to  emphasize  the  profound  igno- 
rance which  surrounds  the  whole  question  of  interior  ven- 
tilation. No  other  problem  of  public  hygiene  is  more  in 
need  of  thorough  investigation.  The  present  widespread 
interest  in  the  subject  affords  ground  for  hope  that  such 
investigation  will  not  be  long  delayed. 

Livingston  Farrand,  M.D., 

Executive  Secretary 


Contents 


PAGE 


Introduction 15 

The  Relation  of  Fresh  Air  to  Health. 

Chapter  I. — ^Ventilation 19 

Fresh  Air  a  Necessity;  The  Danger  of  Overheating;  How  Air  Enters 
Apartments;  Simple  Methods  of  Ventilation;  The  Arrangement  of 
Inside  Shades;  Wind  Shields;  Flushing  Apartments  with  Fresh 
Air;    Bedroom  Ventilation;     Hot  Weather  Ventilation. 

Chapter  II. — Window  Tents 26 

Window  Tents  for  Healthy  Persons;  Home-made  Window  Tents; 
Manufactured  Window  Tents;  Sleeping  with  the  Head  Outside  the 
Window. 

Chapter  III. — Roof  Bungalows 41 

Value  of  Roof  Space  for  Fresh-air  Buildings;  The  Protection  of 
Roofing  Material;  Permanent  Floors  over  Roofing;  Situations  and 
Exposure;  Choice  of  Building  Materials;  Permanent  Roof  Bunga- 
lows; Temporary  and  Cheap  Roof  Shelters;  List  of  Material  for  a 
Temporary  Roof  Shelter. 

Chapter  IV. — Wall  Houses  and  Iron  Frame  Porches 

FOR  City  Use 54 

Selecting  a  Position;  The  "Starnook"  Wall  House;  The  Phillips 
Wall  House;  An  Iron  Frame  Porch;  Iron  Porches  ior  Tenement 
Houses;  The  Vanderbilt  Open  Stair  Tenements;  The  European 
Apartment  House  Loggia. 

Mxl 


CONTENTS 


PAGE 

Chapter     V. — Temporary     Fresh-air     Porches     for 

Country  Use 67 

Sheltered  Positions  for  Porches;  Suggestions  for  Constructing  Porches; 
Cost  of  Temporary  Porches;  Materials  and  Construction  of  Dr. 
Carey's  Porch. 

Chapter     VI. — ^Permanent     Sleeping     Porches     and 

Loggias  for  Country  Homes 81 

Situation  and  Protection;  The  Relation  of  the  Porch  to  the  House; 
Treatment  of  Floors;  Converting  a  Corner  Room  into  a  Loggia;  A 
Fresh-air  Room  Protected  by  Glazed  Sash;  An  Example  of  an  Inex- 
pensive Sleeping  Porch;  A  Permanent  Open  Room  over  a  Front 
Entrance;  An  Open  Sitting-room  and  Sleeping  Porch  on  the  End  of 
a  House;  Two  Open  Rooms  in  a  Wing  at  the  Rear  of  a  House;  An 
Example  of  a  Loggia  Placed  in  an  Angle  of  a  Building;  An  Example 
of  an  Enclosed  Porch  in  an  Angle  of  a  Building;  The  Roof  of  the 
Summer  Kitchen  Used  as  a  Site  for  a  Sleeping  Porch;  Fresh-air 
Rooms  on  a  Seashore  Home. 

Chapter  VII. — Methods  of  Protecting  and  Screening 

Porches 99 

Protection  for  Cold  Weather;  Glass  and  Sash;  Dr.  Paquiri's  Al- 
cove; Protection  for  Moderately  Cold  Weather;  Canvas  Curtains; 
Protection  for  Moderate  and  Warm  Weather;  Venetian  Blinds  and 
Japanese  Matting;  Cloth  Screens;  Protection  Against  Insects; 
Cloth  Netting;      Wire  Screens. 

Chapter  VIII. — Tents  and  Tent  Houses 119 

Tents  on  City  Roofs;  The  Cost  of  Tents;  The  Fisher  Tent;  The 
Lapham  Lean-to  Tent;  The  Gardner  Tent;  The  Ulrich  Tent; 
The  Tucker  Tent;  Tent  Houses;  The  Biggs  Tent  House;  The 
Kenyon  Tent  House;  The  Metal  Screen  Tent  House;  The  U.  S. 
M.  H.  Tent  House. 

[x] 


CONTENTS 


Chapter  IX. — Open-air  Bungalows  and  Cottages 145 

Selecting  a  Healthful  Site;  Construction  of  Bungalows  and  Cottages; 
The  Foundation;  The  Walls;  The  Interior;  The  Roof;  The 
Floors;  The  Summer-house  Type  of  Cottage;  The  Lean-to  Type 
of  Cottage;  The  Turn-table  House;  Slab  Houses;  Log  Houses; 
Tree  Houses. 

Chapter  X. — Suggestions  for  Planning  New  Houses 

WITH  Open-air  Apartments 165 

Selecting  the  Site;  Some  Points  on  the  Sanitary  Arrangement  of  the 
Interior;  Preparing  Apartments  for  the  Sick;  The  Planning  of 
Fresh-air  Rooms;  A  Country  Home  Designed  for  Open-air  Life; 
A  Frame  House  with  Two  Open-air  Apartments;  A  Brick  House 
with  a  Sleeping  Porch;  AHouse  with  an  Entire  Wing  of  Open  Rooms; 
A  House  with  an  Outdoor  Dining  Room  and  Loggia;  A  Little  House 
with  Big  Comforts;  An  Interesting  House  with  Four  Open-air 
Rooms;  A  Summer  Log  House;  A  House  with  Two  Open-air 
Rooms. 

Chapter  XI. — Roof  Playgrounds  for  Children 196 

The  Need  for  Playgrounds;  Positions  for  Roof  Playgrounds;  The 
Construction  of  Roof  Playgrounds. 

Chapter  XII. — Clothing,  Bedding,  and  Furniture 209 

Why  Some  Fabrics  are  Warmer  than  Others;  Materials  Used  for 
Clothing;  Weight  of  Clothing;  Clothing  for  Open-air  Life;  How 
to  Protect  the  Hands;  How  to  Protect  the  Feet;  Clothing  for  Out- 
door Sleeping;  How  to  Protect  the  Head;  Arrangement  of  Pillows; 
The  Bed  and  Bedding  for  Outdoor  Sleepers;  The  Klondike  Bed; 
Damp  Bed  Clothes;  Sleeping  Bags;  The  Robin  Hood  Sleeping 
Bag;  The  Kenwood  Sleeping  Bag;  A  Baby's  Sleeping  Bag;  The 
Providence  Bag;  Furniture  for  Fresh-air  Apartments;  The  Tent 
Cot. 

fxil 


Illustrations 

Frontispiece — A  Tree  House 

CHAPTER  I 
Ventilation 

No.  PAGE 

1.  Arrangement  of  inside  shade  for  ventilation 22 

CHAPTER  II 
Window  Tents 

2.  A  horae-made  window  tent 28 

3.  A  window  tent  over  a  double  bed,  showing  window  arrangement 29 

4.  A  window  tent  over  a  single  bed 80 

.^.  A  window  tent  raised  when  not  in  use 31 

6.  A  window  tent  in  use  with  outside  awning  raised 32 

7.  A  window  tent  with  outside  awning  lowered 33 

8.  A  box  window  tent 34 

9.  A  box  window  tent  with  awning  attachment 35 

10.  An  awning  to  protect  the  head  projecting  from  the  window 36 

11.  An  outside  window  tent 37 

12.  A  Venetian  blind  awning  to  protect  the  head  of  a  bed 38 

13.  A  curtain  around  the  head  of  a  bed  projecting  from  a  window 39 

CHAPTER  III 
Roof  Bungalows 

14.  A  fresh-air  room  constructed  of  wood,  and  protected  by  sash 42 

15.  A  fresh-air  room  constructed  of  hollow  tile  and  sash 44 

10.  A  shelter  constructed  of  sheet  iron  on  a  wooden  frame 46 

17.  A  shelter  constructed  of  corrugated  iron  on  a  wooden  frame 47 

18.  A  shelter  made  of  lattice  work  nailed  to  a  wooden  frame 48 

19.  A  shelter  of  wood  and  canvas  on  a  tenement  hou.se  roof 49 

20.  Plans  for  a  roof  shelter  of  the  lean-to  type 50 

21.  A  shelter  of  the  lean-to  type 51 

f  xiii  I 


ILLUSTRATIONS 


CHAPTER  IV 

Wall  Houses  and  Iron  Frame  Porches  for  City  Use 

PAGE 

22.  Two  views  of  the  wall  house  "Starnook" 55 

23.  A  folding  wall  house  ready  for  outdoor  sleeping 57 

24.  A  folding  wall  house,  thrown  open 59 

25.  An  iron  frame  sleeping  porch  for  city  use 61 

26.  A  model  tenement  with  each  apartment  opening  on  an  iron  balcony  62 

27.  Permanent  fresh-air  porches  on  a  wooden  tenement  house 63 

28.  A  temporary  sleeping  porch  on  the  rear  of  a  tenement  house 64 

29.  Open  rooms  or  loggias  in  European  cities 65 

CHAPTER  V 

Temporary  Fresh-air  Porches  for  Country  Use 

30.  A  porch  supported  on  the  roof  of  the  front  veranda 68 

31.  A  porch  supported  by  posts  placed  in  an  angle  of  a  house 69 

32.  A  third  story  porch  supported  by  posts 70 

33.  A  cheap  porch  supported  by  wooden  braces 71 

34.  A  porch  for  use  in  moderate  weather,  in  an  angle  of  a  house 72 

35.  A  porch  protected  with  canvas  curtains,  over  a  veranda 73 

36;  A  porch  supported  by  posts  in  an  angle  of  a  house 74 

37.  A  cheap  porch  used  in  Troy,  N.  Y 76 

38.  Drawings  showing  details  of  a  cheap  porch  used  in  Troy,  N.  Y 78 

CHAPTER  VI 

Permanent  Sleeping  Porches  and  Loggias  for  Country 

Homes 

39.  A  well  constructed  sleeping  porch  over  a  rear  vei-anda 84 

40.  A  cheap  sleeping  porch  over  a  side  veranda 86 

41.  A  sleeping  porch  over  a  front  veranda 87 

42.  Two  open  rooms  on  the  end  of  a  country  house 88 

43.  Two  open  rooms  at  the  rear  of  a  country  residence 90 

44.  A  second  story  sleeping  loggia  under  the  main  roof 92 

45.  An  open-air  sleeping  room  set  in  an  angle  of  the  house 94 

46.  A  sleeping  porch  built  on  the  roof  of  the  kitchen  extension 95 

[  xiv  ] 


ILLUSTRATIONS 


PAGE 

47.  A  sleeping  porch  at  the  rear  of  a  country  house 96 

48.  A  seashore  home  with  two  permanent  open-air  rooms 98 

CHAPTER  VII 
Methods  of  Protecting  and  Screening  Porches 

49.  The  "In  and  Out  Sleeper,"  for  protection  from  sudden  storms 100 

50.  The  floor  plan  of  the  "In  and  Out  Sleeper" 101 

.51.  A  porch  protected  by  canvas  hung  inside  of  wire  screens 102 

52.  A  porch  inclosed  by  canvas  curtains  on  shade  rollers 103 

53.  Method  of  manipulating  canvas  curtains  by  ropes  and  pulleys 104 

54.  Shielding  the  bed  with  canvas  when  a  porch  has  no  protection 105 

55.  A  porch  covered  by  canvas  curtains  supported  on  iron  rods 106 

56.  A  porch  protected  by  canvas  curtains  on  a  wooden  roller 108 

57.  Venetian  blinds  used  as  a  shield  for  a  sleeping  porch 109 

58.  Japanese  curtains  used  as  a  shield  for  a  sleeping  porch 110 

59.  Screening  a  bed  with  netting  hung  over  a  square  frame 112 

00.  Screening  a  bed  with  mosquito  netting  and  open  mesh  cloth 114 

61.  Screening  a  bed  by  using  a  barrel  hoop  to  support  the  netting 115 

62.  Screening  porches  of  country  residences  with  wire  netting 116 

63.  Screening  a  tent  with  wire  netting 117 

64.  Screening  porches  with  netting,  in  tropical  countries 118 

CHAPTER  VIII 

Tents  and  Tent  Houses 

65.  A  tent  on  the  roof  of  the  rear  extension  of  a  city  dwelling 120 

66.  A  tent  on  the  roof  of  a  rear  extension,  held  by  guy  ropes 121 

67.  A  lean-to  tent  shelter  on  the  roof  of  a  city  dwelling 122 

68.  A  tent  house  on  the  roof  of  an  apartment  building 123 

69.  A  tent  with  all  four  sides  made  of  sliding  canvas  doors 124 

70.  A  lean-to  tent  with  a  glass  front 127 

71.  A  tent  built  like  an  Indian  tepee,  with  good  ventilation. 128 

72.  Drawings  of  the  tent  built  like  an  Indian  tepee 130 

73.  Plans  showing  an  arrangement  for  ventilating  an  ordinary  tent 131 

74.  A  tent  with  a  board  floor,  pitched  over  a  rigid  frame 132 

75.  A  well  ventilated  tent  with  a  high  wooden  base 133 

fxvl 


ILLUSTRATIONS 


PAGE 

76.  Drawings  showing  ventilators  for  a  tent  witli  a  wooden  base 134 

77.  A  tent  house  for  use  during  the  greater  part  of  the  year 136 

78.  Drawings  of  a  tent  house  showing  method  of  construction 137 

79.  A  tent  house  of  heavy  brown  duck  over  a  take-down  wooden  frame  .  138 

80.  A  tent  house  supported  on  a  metal  frame  with  canvas  sides 139 

81.  A  tent  house  supported  on  a  metal  frame,  with  sides  removed 140 

82.  A  drawing  of  a  metal  frame  for  supporting  a  tent  house 141 

83.  A  tent  house  which  can  be  opened  on  all  sides 142 

84.  A  drawing  of  a  tent  house,  showing  details  of  construction 143 

CHAPTER  IX 
Open-air  Bungalows  and  Cottages 

85.  An  open  bungalow  with  a  sleeping  apartment  and  sitting  room 149 

86.  An  open  cottage  showing  a  cheap  method  of  finishing  interior 150 

87.  A  frame  cottage  protected  on  all  sides  by  canvas  curtains 152 

88.  A  cheap  cottage  with  open  and  inclosed  apartments 154 

89.  A  well  constructed  cottage  of  the  summer-house  type 155 

90.  A  cheap  cottage  of  the  summer-house  type 156 

91.  An  open  cottage  with  an  air  space  below  the  floor 157 

92.  An  inexpensive  frame  cottage  of  the  lean-to  type 158 

93.  Drawings  of  a  lean-to  type  of  cottage 160 

94.  A  turn-table  house 161 

CHAPTER  X 

Suggestions  for  Planning  New   Houses   with   Open-air 

Apartments 

95.  A  loggia  finished  with  a  hard  wood  floor  and  plastered  walls 168 

96.  A  fresh-air  sleeping  room  protected  by  casement  windows 170 

97.  A  bungalow  with  a  fresh-air  room  at  each  end 171 

98.  A  bungalow  with  a  large  front  porch  and  loggia 172 

99.  A  country  home  with  outdoor  sleeping,  dining,  and  living  rooms ....  174 

100.  Plans  of  a  country  home  with  outdoor  apartments 175 

101.  A  frame  house  with  a  sun  parlor  and  sleeping  loggia 177 

102.  Plans  of  a  house  with  sun  parlor  and  sleeping  loggia 178 

103.  A  brick  housi;  with  .i  sleeping  porch 180 

[xvi] 


ILLUSTRATIONS 


PAGE 

104.  Plans  of  a  brick  house  with  a  sleeping  porch 181 

105.  A  house  with  an  entire  wing  of  open  rooms 182 

106.  Plans  of  a  house  with  a  wing  of  open  rooms 183 

107.  A  small  house  with  an  outdoor  dining  room  and  loggia 184 

108.  Plans  of  the  house  with  outdoor  dining  room  and  loggia 185 

109.  A  small  house  with  a  porch  and  a  sleeping  loggia 186 

110.  Plans  for  a-  small  house  with  a  porch  and  loggia 187 

111.  An  artistically  arranged  outdoor  sitting  room 188 

112.  A  fresh-air  sitting  room  inclosed  by  triple-hung  windows 189 

113.  A  frame  house  with  four  open  rooms  under  the  main  roof 190 

114.  Plans  of  a  house  with  four  open  rooms 191 

115.  A  log  house  with  the  upper  floor  for  open-air  sleeping 192 

116.  Plans  of  a  log  house 193 

117.  A  country  house  with  an  open-air  sitting  room  and  loggia 194 

118.  Plans  of  a  house  with  open-air  sitting  room  and  loggia 195 

CHAPTER  XI 

Roof  Playgrounds  for  Children  • 

119.  A  steel  frame  over  a  playground  on  a  private  dwelling 199 

120.  A  garden  and  playground  on  the  roof  of  an  apartment  house 200 

121.  A  playground  on  the  roof  of  the  rear  extension  of  a  dwelling 201 

122.  A  roof  playground  on  a  model  tenement  house 202 

123.  An  inexpensive  playground  on  an  extension  roof 203 

124.  A  small  playground  partly  inclosed  with  wire  netting 204 

125.  A  large  playground  showing  roof  construction 205 

126.  A  playground  entirely  inclosed  with  wire  netting 206 

127.  A  protected  playground  on  the  roof  of  a  settlement  house 207 

CHAPTER  XII 

Clothing,  Bedding,  and  Furniture 

128.  Fresh-air  babies  dressed  and  protected  for  cold  weather 212 

129.  How  to  wrap  up  warmly  for  sitting  out  of  doors — No.  1 214 

130.  How  to  wrap  up  warmly  for  sitting  out  of  doors — -No.  2 215 

131.  Foot  warmers  made  of  sheepskin  and  lined  with  fleece 216 

132.  A  home-made  shoulder  cape 218 

2  r  xvii  1 


ILLUSTRATIONS 


PAGE 

133.  Hood  and  cape  for  open-air  sleeping,  made  of  shaker  flannel 219 

134.  A  sleeping  hood  showing  the  face  partially  exposed 220 

135.  A  sleeping  hood  closed  by  a  shirr  string 220 

136.  An  Angora  wool  cap  in  one  piece 221 

137.  How  to  protect  the  head  from  drafts .  222 

138.  A  steel  frame  bedstead  for  outdoor  sleeping. 224 

139.  A  bedstead  for  sleeping  with  the  head  outside  the  window 225 

140.  The  Klondike  bed 227 

141.  A  sleeping  bag  with  an  attachment  for  protecting  the  head 229 

142.  A  sleeping  bag  made  of  heavy  woolen  cloth 231 

143.  A  baby's  crib  made  with  a  clothes-basket 233 

144.  A  fresh-air  inclosure  for  babies;  made  with  a  tennis  net 234 

145.  A  sitting-out  bag  made  of  layers  of  flannel  and  newspapers 235 

146.  A  swinging  canvas  bed  for  outdoor  sleeping 236 

147.  A  reclining  chair  for  sitting  out  of  doors ".  237 

148.  A  comfortable  chair  for  sitting  out  in  the  open  air 238 

149.  A  tent  cot  for  camping  and  outdoor  sleeping 239 

150.  A  combined  tent  and  couch  for  two  persons 240 


XVllI 


Introduction 

The  Relation  of  Fresh  Air  to  Health 

THE  interiors  of  the  majority  of  homes  in  northern 
countries  are  breeding  places  for  disease,  because  of 
the  difficulties  in  the  way  of  and  the  objection  to  admitting 
fresh  air.  Foul  air  which  is  full  of  poisonous  gases  exhaled 
from  the  lungs  of  the  inmates,  is  the  usual  atmosphere  of 
the  home,  and  it  cannot  be  otherwise  when  our  houses  are 
built  to  be  closed  as  tightly  as  possible. 

Today  fresh  air  is  a  recognized  remedy  for  pneumonia 
and  tuberculosis  and  it  is  also  known  to  be  a  preventive  of 
diseases  generally.  It  is  essential  to  good  health  and  for 
this  reason  it  is  necessary  to  make  arrangements  for 
obtaining  it  in  every  enclosed  space  used  as  a  shelter  by 
human  beings.  Buildings  should  be  ventilated  so  that 
it  will  be  impossible  for  those  who  use  them  to  rebreathe 
the  air  which  has  been  expelled  from  their  lungs. 

It  is  a  common  mistake  to  confuse  heat  and  bad  air  or 
cold  and  good  air.  The  fact  is,  the  atmosphere  may  be 
below  the  freezing  point  and  still  be  very  bad  or  it  may 
be  above  ninety  degrees  and  yet  be  perfectly  pure. 

There  are  apparently  three  distinct  causes  which  have 
contributed  to  the  shut-in  existence  of  the  human  family. 
First,  the  need  for  warmth  and  comfort  during  the  long 
winters  in  northern  climates;    second,  the  fear  of  night 

[15  1 


FRESH  AIR 


air  found  among  people  living  in  warm  or  tropical  coun- 
tries; and  third,  the  necessity  during  past  ages  of  building 
a  home  that  would  withstand  the  attack  of  enemies. 

In  all  countries  where  the  winters  are  severe,  man's 
ideal  shelter  has  been  one  that  would  insure  the  best 
protection  from  the  cold,  but  unfortunately  this  protec- 
tion has  been  gained  by  excluding  fresh  air.  Even  today, 
with  all  our  modern  inventions,  we  cannot  produce  proper 
ventilation  without  losing  a  large  percentage  of  heat;  so 
the  poor,  in  the  attempt  to  prevent  the  waste  of  fuel,  make 
their  living  rooms  as  near  air-tight  as  they  can. 

In  the  north,  fresh  air  is  shut  out  in  order  to  obtain  a 
comfortable  temperature.  In  the  south,  it  is  shut  out  to 
prevent  malarial  fevers.  Millions  of  people  in  malarial 
countries  still  believe  that  night  air  is  the  carrier  of  deadly 
disease,  and  they  use  every  means  to  keep  it  out  of  their 
homes  by  closing  windows  and  doors  as  soon  as  the  sun 
disappears  in  the  west.  This  idea  holds  in  all  parts  of 
the  world.  It  is  not  unusual  to  find  whole  communities 
closing  their  houses  carefully  as  soon  as  the  sun  goes 
down,  and  not  opening  them  again  until  morning.  This 
prejudice  against  night  air  should  today  be  banished  from 
the  mind,  for,  since  the  discovery  that  the  mosquito  is 
the  carrier  of  tropical  fever  and  not  the  night  air,  it  may 
be  stated  with  authority  that  man  may  breathe  fresh 
night  air  with  impunity  if  he  protects  himself  from  insects. 
Outdoor  air  is  much  purer  in  a  given  location  at  night  than 
it  is  during  the  day.  The  atmosphere  is  cleansed  by  the 
precipitation  of  dew  and  frost,  for  moisture  as  it  drops  to 

[16  1 


INTRODUCTION 


the  earth  carries  with  it  from  the  air  the  particles  of  dust 
and  smoke  which  pollute  it.  When  there  is  no  wind  the 
atmosphere  is  also  cleared  by  gravity,  the  particles  of 
dirt  settling  slowly  to  the  earth.  Fresh,  cold  night  air 
stimulates  and  tones  up  the  body  and  induces  healthy 
sleep,  which  is  normally  followed  by  renewed  strength  and 
a  fresh  mental  outlook  upon  life. 

The  purpose  of  this  book  is  to  show  how  we  may  im- 
prove our  health  by  using  larger  quantities  of  fresh,  pure 
air,  for  we  know  that  pure  air  is  an  absolute  necessity 
to  human  beings  and  carries  life-sustaining  properties. 
Knowing  that  people  under  present  economic  conditions 
must  live  in  the  surroundings  fixed  by  their  income,  it  is 
intended  here  to  accept  living  conditions  as  they  are  and 
to  point  out  practical  means  of  obtaining  fresh  air  with 
as  little  trouble  and  expense  as  possible. 

Overcrowding  is  the  usual  plight  of  the  families  among 
the  poor.  The  great  middle  class  have  little  or  no  extra 
money  to  put  into  new  equipment,  and  the  rich  often 
object  to  the  discomfort  produced  by  alterations  and 
the  trouble  of  installing  a  ventilating  system;  therefore, 
theoretical  and  technical  considerations  on  the  subject 
of  ventilation  are  passed  over  in  this  treatise,  and  the 
practical  use  of  such  means  as  are  at  hand  will  be  described, 
and  suggestions  offered  for  their  better  service.  It  may  not 
be  possible  to  show  this  to  the  entire  satisfaction  of  all, 
but  it  is  hoped  that  the  material  offered  will  be  of  some 
help  to  those  endeavoring  to  improve  the  prevailing  con- 
ditions of  their  homes. 

[  17  1 


CHAPTER  I 

Ventilation 

Fresh  Air  a  Necessity 

VENTILATION  is  the  process  of  introducing  fresh 
air  into  and  removing  foul  air  from  an  enclosed 
space.  If  the  fact  is  accepted  that  fresh  air  is  a  necessity, 
the  problem  of  ventilation  or  of  obtaining  large  quanti- 
ties of  fresh  air  in  dwellings  and  places  of  labor  is  a  fun- 
damental one,  and  should  not  be  neglected. 

If  an  individual  requires  about  three  thousand  cubic 
feet  of  fresh  air  every  hour,  as  many  authorities  maintain, 
a  large  room  twenty  feet  long  by  fifteen  feet  wide  and  ten 
feet  high,  having  a  cubic  capacity  of  just  three  thousand 
cubic  feet,  contains  only  sufficient  pure  air  for  one  hour's 
use.  Therefore,  a  large  room  even  when  occupied  by  only 
one  person  cannot  have  a  healthy  atmosphere  for  more 
than  a  comparatively  short  time  unless  there  are  some 
means  by  which  a  current  of  air  can  be  made  to  pass 
through  it. 

The  Danger  of  Overheating 

The  air  in  a  dwelling  is  dangerous  to  health  when  it  be- 
comes overheated,  abnormally  dry,  or  loaded  with  impuri- 
ties.    Heat  is  thrown  off  by  the  human  body  in  quantities 

[19  1 


FRESH  AIR 


large  enough  to  be  easily  estimated  and  from  one  person 

is  sufficient  to  raise  the  temperature  of  a  room  twelve 

feet  square  about  one  degree  Fahrenheit  in  an  hour.     This 

may  seem  an  unimportant  matter,  but  in  practice  has 

serious  results,  as  the  temperature  of  an  apartment  may 

be  raised  four  or  five  degrees  in  a  short  time  by  a  few 

individuals. 

When  the  air  is  raw  and  too  cold  out  of  doors  to  permit 

the  windows  of  a  dwelling  to  be  opened  with  comfort,  but 

not  so  cold  as  to  necessitate  the  house  being  heated,  a 

number  of  persons  will  often  gather  in  one  room  in  order 

that  the  warmth  of  their  bodies  may  produce  a  comfortable 

temperature.     The  atmosphere  of  rooms  heated  in  this 

manner  soon  becomes  foul  and  unhealthy.     Lamps  and 

gas  burners  also  raise  the  temperature  of  a  room  very 

rapidly,  and  one  of  these  will  remove  about  the  same 

amount  of  oxygen  from  the  air  and  produce  as  much  heat 

as  three  or  four  persons.     Heated  air  and  gases  from  the 

lungs   and  bodies,  being  warmer  than  the   surrounding 

atmosphere,  rise  and  are  held  in  suspension  below  the 

ceiling  in  a  closed  room.     This  layer  of  foul  air  is  more  or 

less  deep  and  gradually  fills  the  entire  room.     Such  a 

condition  of  the  atmosphere  is  very  unhealthy  and  persons 

remaining  in  it  soon  become  drowsy,  yawn,  and  complain 

of  headache. 

« 

How  Air  Enters  Apartments 

Under  present  housing  conditions  the  air  finds  its  way 

into  and  from  dwellings  through  open  windows,  doors, 

[201 


VENTILATION 


transoms,  registers,  fire-places,  chimney  flues,  and  various 
ventilating  devices,  also  by  leakage  around  windows  and 
doors,  and  by  passing  through  the  building  material 
itself.  After  entering  through  these  openings  the  fresh 
air  is  mixed  with  the  enclosed  atmosphere  through  the 
movement  of  the  air  due  to  the  wind  pressure  on  the 
outside  of  buildings,  the  tendency  of  heated  air  to  rise, 
and  of  all  gases  to  intermingle  or  diffuse. 


Simple  Methods  of  Ventilation 

Where  there  is  no  mechanical  apparatus  to  force  air 
through  a  building  the  best  way  to  keep  the  atmosphere 
fresh  is  through  open  windows  with  a  cross  draft.  There 
should  be  some  means  of  producing  cross  ventilation  in 
all  rooms,  and  this  can  be  obtained  by  opening  windows, 
doors,  or  transoms  on  opposite  sides  of  an  apartment  if 
the  various  connected  rooms  or  halls  have  windows  on 
two  different  sides  of  a  building.  Cross  ventilation  can- 
not be  obtained  through  windows  on  one  side  of  a  room 
only  or  if  the  other  sides  are  closed.  Where  there  are^ 
windows  on  two  sides  of  a  room,  good  cross  ventilation 
is  obtained  through  small  openings  made  by  lowering  the 
upper  sash  of  opposite  windows  from  one  to  six  inches. 
Where  there  are  windows  on  only  one  side  of  a  room  an 
opening  should  be  made  above  the  upper  sash  and  below 
the  lower  one  also.  This  arrangement  allows  the  escape 
of  the  warm  foul  air  through  the  opening  above  the  upper 
sash  as  the  pure  cold  air  enters  below. 

I  21  I 


FRESH  AIR 


J .  . ' .  .  'I  .  .  I, 


No.  1. — ^When  the  upper  window  sash  is  let  down  and  the 
shade  lowered,  a  larger  amount  of  fresh  air  may  be  obtained 
by  inserting  a  strip  of  open-mesh  netting  between  the  shade  and 
the  roller. 


The  Arrangement  of  Inside  Shades 

In  order  to  use  effectually  an  opening  above  the  upper 
sash  of  a  window  for  ventilation  and  lower  the  inside  shade 
to  prevent  the  room  being  overlooked  from  the  outside, 
the  shade  should  be  attached  to  the  roller  by  four  or  five 
pieces  of  tape,  each  five  inches  long,  or  by  a  heavy  mos- 
quito netting  of  large  mesh.     This  leaves  a  space  between 


VENTILATION 


the  roller  and  the  shade  through  which  fresh  air  can  enter, 
and  if  it  is  filled  in  with  a  netting  of  the  same  color  as  the 
shade,  such  an  arrangement  is  not  noticeable  nor  does  it 
detract  from  the  artistic  arrangement  of  the  room.  When 
the  shade  is  drawn  down  to  its  full  length  in  order  to 
expose  the  upper  opening  there  should  also  be  a  small 
opening  between  the  bottom  of  the  shade  and  the  lower 
casing  as  shown  in  Illustration  No.  1. 

Wind  Shields 

In  admitting  fresh  air  into  a  room  through  an  opening 
below  the  window  sash,  some  kind  of  wind  shield  or  air 
deflector  is  often  necessary  to  protect  those  sitting  near 
the  window  from  exposure  to  a  direct  draft.  A  shield 
for  this  purpose  may  be  made  from  an  ordinary  piece  of 
hard  wood  board  three-fourths  of  an  inch  thick  and  eight 
inches  wide,  long  enough  to  fit  in  between  the  side  casings 
and  attached  by  two  small  hinges  to  the  lower  casing. 
The  shield  should  be  held  in  position  by  cords  attached 
to  its  upper  edge  and  to  the  casing,  leaving  an  opening 
three  inches  wide  between  it  and  the  window  sash.  There 
are  a  variety  of  wind  shields  on  the  market  under  the 
general  name  of  sash  ventilators  which  can  be  recom- 
mended for  this  purpose. 

Flushing  Apartments  with  Fresh  Air 

A  most  efficient  way  to  ventilate  thoroughly  and  renew 
the  air  of  a  room  is  to  flush  it  with  fresh  outdoor  air.  In 
order  to  obtain  a  quick  flushing  cross  ventilation  is  needed 

[23  1 


FRESH  AIR 


with  windows  opened  from  both  the  top  and  bottom.  A 
room  may  be  flushed  as  often  as  necessary  and  for  any 
length  of  time  agreeable  to  the  occupants  during  warm 
and  temperate  weather,  but  in  cold  weather  it  must  be 
flushed  quickly  so  as  to  conserve  the  latent  heat.  This 
is  done  by  opening  to  the  fullest  extent  for  a  few  moments 
the  windows  and  doors  through  which  the  strongest  cross 
draft  can  be  obtained.  Such  a  flushing  will  change  the 
air  in  a  few  moments,  and  although  the  room  may  seem 
cold  after  the  openings  are  closed,  the  atmosphere  soon 
regains  its  original  temperature.  The  walls,  ceiling,  and 
other  objects  absorb  heat  when  a  room  is  warm  and  do  not 
lose  it  during  a  short  period  of  flushing,  but  give  it  up 
afterward.  The  cold  air  is  thus  warmed  by  convection; 
that  is,  the  air  nearest  the  objects  becomes  heated  and 
rises,  giving  place  to  cooler  air  which  in  its  turn  is  heated, 
this  circulation  continuing  until  the  atmosphere  is  again 
warmed. 

Bedroom  Ventilation 

Fresh  air  is  as  essential  in  the  bedroom  at  night  as 
during  the  day,  and  every  one  should  sleep  ivith  iciindov)s 
wide  open  duritig  all  seasons  of  the  year.  A  small  aperture 
at  the  top  and  bottom  of  the  window  does  not  give  a 
sufficient  supply  of  pure  air  to  the  sleeper.  Too  much 
emphasis  cannot  be  placed  on  this  phase  of  the  fresh-air 
problem,  for  the  habit  of  closing  up  sleeping  rooms  at 
night  is  prevalent  throughout  the  entire  country. 

Many  persons  close  and  lock  their  windows  at  night 

[24  1     ■ 


VENTILATION 


through  fear  of  burglars.  Where  there  is  reason  for  such 
precaution  windows  of  sleeping  rooms  should  be  fitted 
with  permanent  iron  bars  or  movable  iron  gratings  which 
can  be  locked  into  place  at  night.  If  gratings  or  bars  are 
used,  one  of  the  simplest  and  best  methods  of  obtaining 
a  plentiful  supply  of  fresh  air  is  to  remove  both  the  upper 
and  lower  window  sash  and  leave  the  window  opening 
entirely  free  from  glass  obstruction  at  night.  The  French 
window,  which  opens  from  floor  to  ceiling  by  swinging 
inward,  allows  an  opening  of  the  entire  window  without 
the  inconvenience  of  removing  the  sash,  and  is  to  be 
recommended  for  ideal  sleeping  rooms. 


Hot  Weather  Ventilation 

W^hile  it  is  very  important  to  obtain  fresh  air  without 
great  loss  of  heat  in  cold  weather  in  northern  climates,  it 
is  equally  necessary  to  supply  dwellings  with  fresh  air 
and  keep  them  cool  during  the  summer  months  and  in 
warm  climates.  In  tropical  countries,  windows  should 
be  shielded  by  latticed  blinds  made  of  wooden  strips, 
swung  far  enough  out  to  prevent  the  sun's  rays  from 
striking  the  glass.  During  the  heat  of  the  day  doors  and 
windows  are  usually  closed  and  the  rooms  darkened,  but 
at  night  both  living  and  sleeping  rooms  should  be  opened 
and  cross  ventilation  obtained  from  as  many  directions 
as  possible.  Careful  screening  is  necessary,  and  a  descrip- 
tion of  the  various  methods  for  obtaining  this  protection 
will  be  found  in  Chapter  VII. 


CHAPTER  II 

Window  Tents 

Window  Tents  for  Healthy  Persons 

THE  window  tent  was  originally  devised  in  order  to 
give  the  open-air  treatment  for  tuberculosis  to  pa- 
tients in  their  own  homes  when  they  could  not  procure  the 
use  of  porches  or  other  open  buildings  for  this  purpose. 
But  as  window  tents  have  proven  both  convenient  and 
economical,  they  are  now  used  by  many  healthy  persons 
who  wish  to  sleep  in  the  fresh  air  during  the  winter  months 
without  cooling  off  their  houses.  Window  tents  are  all 
constructed  practically  on  the  same  principle,  the  differ- 
ence between  them  being  largely  in  their  shape  and  the 
manner  of  their  manipulation.  A  frame,  usually  of  steel, 
supports  a  canvas  cover,  and  this  canopy  encloses  a  space 
inside  the  room  connected  with  the  window.  The  tent 
frame  is  either  attached  to  the  window  casing  or  the 
head  of  the  bed,  and  projects  over  the  bed,  covering  the 
head  and  shoulders  of  the  person  lying  on  it. 

Home-made  Window  Tents 

Those  desiring  to  try  this  method  of  sleeping  in  the 
fresh  air  can  make  a  temporary  home-made  window  tent, 

[26  1 


WINDOW  TENTS 


which  gives  excellent  results,  with  two  bed  sheets  each 
nine  feet  long  by  four  feet  wide.  Tack  one  end  of  each 
sheet  to  the  top  of  the  inner  window  casing,  overlapping 
them  eighteen  inches  where  they  meet  at  the  middle  of 
the  window.  Carry  the  lower  ends  of  the  sheets  to  the 
outer  side-rail  of  the  bed,  allowing  them  to  fall  over  the 
edge  of  the  bed,  and  attach  them  by  strong  tape  to  screw- 
eyes  inserted  into  the  floor.  Then  tack  the  outer  sides 
of  the  sheets  to  the  outer  edge  of  the  inner  window  casing. 
The  sheets  making  the  window  tent  should  not  be  pinned 
or  attached  in  any  way  to  the  bedstead  or  bedding,  as  it 
is  necessary  that  the  bed  covering  be  allowed  to  move 
freely  with  the  sleeper,  under  the  edge  of  the  tent.  If 
desired,  any  heavy  cloth  such  as  canvas  or  unbleached 
muslin  can  be  used  instead  of  the  sheets,  and  with  the  help 
of  Illustration  No.  2  the  tent  can  be  arranged  over  any 
bed  near  a  window  in  a  few  moments.  If  the  home-made 
tent  proves  satisfactory  to  the  experimenter,  a  stronger 
and  more  convenient  manufactured  tent  should  be  pur- 
chased. 

Manufactured  Window  Tents 

These  are  made  in  two  shapes,  those  which  appear  like 
and  work  on  the  principle  of  the  ordinary  window  awning 
and  those  resting  on  the  bed  in  the  form  of  a  box.  The 
Knopf  and  Allen  tents  are  of  the  awning  variety,  and  the 
Farlin,  Walsh,  Mott,  and  Aerolo  tents  are  of  the  box 
order. 

The  box  tent  rests  on  the  bed,  and  is  attached  at  one 
3  [  27  1 


FRESH  AIR 


No.  2. — A  home-made  window  tent.  This  consists  of  two  sheets,  nine  feet 
long  by  four  feet  wide,  tacked  to  the  window  casing  and  fastened  with  tapes 
at  the  lower  ends  to  screw-eyes  placed  in  the  floor. 


end  to  the  window  casing  or  to  the  head  of  the  bedstead. 
They  are  made  with  a  Hght  frame  and  covered  with  can- 
vas. Some  have  a  detachable  bottom  of  tent  cloth,  with 
an  opening  for  the  head  of  the  sleeper.     This  can  be  re- 

[281 


WINDOW  TENTS 


moved  and  laundered  as  often  as  necessary,  as  the  head 
rests  upon  it  instead  of  a  pillow-case.  It  is  claimed  that 
the  detachable  bottom  prevents  the  cold  air  from  reaching 
the  shoulders  and  body,  as  the  edges  of  the  opening  are 
made  in  the  form  of  flaps  which  can  be  tucked  about 
the  neck. 

When  purchasing  a  window  tent  one  should  remember 
that  its  purpose  is  to  supply  fresh  out-door  air  to  a  sleeper 
indoors  without  making  the  bedroom  uncomfortably  cold, 
and  as  it  is  a  device  to  supply  fresh  air,  it  should  be  made 
so  that  the  ventilation  within  it  is  perfect.  W^indow  tents 
should  be  inconspicuous  from  the  exterior  of  the  house. 


No.  3. — The  Alien  window  tent  over  a  douljle  bed  and  .showing  the  arrange- 
ment of  the  windows  for  ventilation  from  the  outside, 
f  29  1  • 


FRESH  AIR 


No.  4. — Dr.  S.  A.  Knopf's  window  tent  in  position,  with  a  person  in  bed 
looking  through  the  celluloid  window  into  the  room,  but  breathing  outdoor 


and  arranged  so  that  they  can  be  moved  easily  and  placed 
in  position  without  great  difficulty.  They  should  fold 
neatly  against  every  part  of  the  window,  and  when  not  in 
use  swing  out  of  the  way  so  as  to  permit  the  usual  amount 
of  light  and  air  to  enter  the  room.  Shields  should  be 
provided  with  all  tents  to  screen  the  occupant  from  storms 
as  well  as  to  protect  him  from  being  overlooked  from 

[301 


WINDOW  TENTS 


neighboring  windows,  and  the  cover  should  be  detachable 
so  that  it  can  be  laundered. 

The  tent  shown  in  Illustration  No.  3  has  the  appear- 
ance of  an  ordinary  window  awning  turned  into  the  room, 
and  is  made  to  cover  the  entire  window  in  order  to  obtain 
ventilation  from  openings  above  the  upper  and  below 
the  lower  sash  at  the  same  time. 

The  tent  shown  in  Illustrations  Nos.  4  and  5  was  de- 


No.  5. — Dr.  S.  A.  Knopf's  w  imlow  tent  raised  when  not  in  use. 
[311 


FRESH  AIR 


No.  6. — The  Walsh  window  tent  over  a  bed,  with  a  view  from  the  outside 
showing  attachment  for  holding  the  tent  to  the  window. 


signed  by  Dr.  S.  A.  Knopf,  and  can  be  attached  to  the 
side  window  casing,  shghtly  below  the  centre  of  the  sash. 
The  frame  is  of  steel  and  moves  on  hinged  pins  screwed 
to  the  casing.  The  cover  is  made  from  heavy  sail  can- 
vas left  long  enough  at  the  lower  end  to  tuck  in  under 
the  bedding,  in  order  to  prevent  the  cold  air  from 
entering  the  room.  This  tent  fills  half  of  the  window 
opening. 

[321 


WINDOW  TENTS 


The  tent  shown  in  Illustrations  Nos.  6  and  7  is  a  small 
cloth  box  tent  for  the  head,  secured  to  the  window  by  an 
adjustable  frame  which  fits  between  the  window  casing 
like  a  wire  screen  frame.  The  bottom  through  which  the 
head  is  passed  is  made  of  flannel  and  can  be  drawn  closely 
around  the  neck. 

The  tent  shown  in  Illustration  No.  8  is  supported  by 
a  light  steel  frame,  held  in  place  by  two  small  screw-eyes. 


No.  7. — The  Walsh  window  tent,  raised  when  not  in  use,  and  a  view  of  the 
outside  awning  completely  lowered. 

[331 


FRESH  AIR 


No.  8. — The  Mott  window  tent  is  supported  from  the  window  sill,  without  an 
attachment  connecting  it  to  the  bed. 


and  will  fit  any  ordinary  window  from  twenty-five  to 
forty-seven  inches  wide.  It  is  made  from  a  fine  grade 
of  army  khaki  with  skirts  about  twelve  inches  long,  in- 
tended to  take  the  place  of  a  false  bottom  which  is  not 
used  with  this  model.  This  tent  appears  like  a  square  box 
supported  from  the  window-sill,  and  is  not  attached  to  the 
head  of  the  bed.  It  is  supplied  with  a  dark  green,  coarsely 
woven  cloth  screen,  to  prevent  a  direct  breeze  blowing 
upon  the  face,  and  is  arranged  so  that  it  can  be  removed 

[34  1 


WINDOW  TENTS 


from  the  window  or  drawn  back  against  the  side  out  of 
the  way  when  not  in  use.  In  order  that  the  supply  of 
fresh  air  may  be  controlled  from  the  interior  of  the  tent, 
the  frame  is  arranged  so  that  it  does  not  interfere  with 
the  movement  of  the  window  sash. 

The  Aerolo  tent  is  also  a  square,  box-like  structure 
having  the  same  appearance  as  the  tent  shown  in  Illus- 
tration No.  8,  but  attached  to  the  head  of  the  bed  instead 
of  the  window  frame.     It  is  said  to  be  strong  enough  to 


No.  9. — The  Farlin  window  tent  resting  on  a  single  bed,  with  a  view  from  the 
exterior  showing  the  awning  protecting  the  sleeper. 


support  a  blanket  which  may  be  thrown  over  it  during 
very  cold  weather  in  order  further  to  isolate  the  warm 
room  from  the  outdoor  temperature. 

The  tent  shown  in  Illustration  No.  9  has  a  rust-proof 
metal  frame  and  is  covered  with  army  khaki,  and  when 
not  in  use  can  be  folded  up  into  a  small  space  against  the 
window  sash  or  be  removed  from  the  window  with  little 
difficulty.     It  is  claimed  for  this  tent  that  it  can  be 

[35  1 


FRESH  AIR 


No.  10. — An  outside  window  awning  to  protect  the  sleeper 
lying  in  bed  with  his  head  projecting  from  the  window.  {Cour- 
tesy of  the  Stein  Manufacturing  Co.) 


regulated  to  suit  any  weather  condition  in  a  moment  by 
the  person  inside,  and  that  drafts  can  be  shut  out  by  an 
outside  awning  arrangement. 

[36  1 


WINDOW  TENTS 


Sleeping  with  the  Head  Outside  the  Window 

It  is  quite  possible  to  sleep  in  comfort  with  one's  head 
outside  the  window.  In  order  to  do  this,  the  head  of  a 
cot  bedstead  may  be  run  through  the  window  so  that  the 
sleeper's  head  and  shoulders  are  on  the  outside.     The 


No.  11. — The  Aerarium,  a  wooden  frame  covered  with  canvas  for  use  as 
a  protection  against  storms  when  sleeping  with  the  head  outside  the  window. 
{Courtesy  of  the  Lapalme  Hoffman  Co.) 


lower  window  sash  must  be  raised  about  two  feet,  and  a 
heavy  cloth  or  curtain  hung  from  its  lower  edge,  which 
will  drop  across  the  body  and  shut  off  the  room  from  the 
outside  air.  In  very  severe  weather  the  curtain  can  be 
tucked  around  the  sleeper's  neck,  leaving  his  body  prac- 

I  37  I 


FRESH  AIR 


No.  12. — ^A  Venetian  blind  awning  for  protecting 
the  sleeper  lying  in  bed  with  his  head  outside  the  win- 
dow. 


tically  indoors  and  in  a  warm  room.  In  warm  weather 
the  curtain  can  be  drawn  down  toward  the  feet,  in  this 
way  placing  the  body  practically  outdoors.  A  bed  for 
this  method  of  sleeping  in  the  open  air  has  been  invented 
by  Dr.  H.  B.  Dunham  and  is  shown  in  Illustration  No. 
139.  The  head  of  the  sleeper  on  the  outside  of  the  window 
should  be  protected  by  a  canvas  awning  supported  on  a 

[38] 


WINDOW  TENTS 


wooden  or  steel  frame.  The  ordinary  awning  for  shield- 
ing windows  during  the  summer  months  can  be  used  for 
this  purpose,  or  a  practical  home-made  shelter  may  be 
constructed  with  a  wooden  frame  to  which  canvas  is 
tacked,  as  shown  in  Illustration  No.  11.  A  double  awning 
made  for  this  purpose  with  openings  for  proper  ventilation 


No.  13. — A  view  from  below,  .showing  a  curtain  around  the 
head  of  a  bed  projecting  from  a  window.  (Courtesy  of  the 
Stein  Manufacturing  Co.) 

[39  1 


FRESH  AIR 


may  be  obtained  on  the  market  (see  Illustration  No.  10). 
For  summer  a  Venetian  blind  awning  made  of  wooden 
slats  may  be  used  and  is  to  be  recommended,  as  it  can  be 
arranged  so  as  to  obtain  a  free  current  of  air  without 
losing  the  necessary  protection  (see  Illustration  No.  12). 
This  means  of  outdoor  sleeping  is  particularly  desirable 
for  persons  who  have  to  leave  their  beds  during  the 
night,  as  the  bedrooms  can  be  kept  warmer  than  with 
the  use  of  the  inside  window  tent. 


40 


CHAPTER  III 
Roof  Bungalows 

Value  of  Roof  Space  for  Fresh-air  Buildings 

THE  great  value  of  roof  space  for  obtaining  fresh  air 
in  cities  is  gradually  being  appreciated.  The  major- 
ity of  buildings  in  cities  and  towns  have  either  flat  roofs 
or  thoscwith  only  a  slight  fall,  which  can  be  made  splendid 
sites  for  various  kinds  of  little  buildings.  The  objection 
to  the  use  of  roofs  as  we  find  them  is  that  the  material 
which  is  laid  to  shed  water  does  not  last  long  if  used  as 
a  floor.  Owners  do  not  care  to  run  the  risk  of  having 
expensive  tin  or  gravel  roofings  destroyed  by  their  tenants 
walking  over  them.  But  this  objection  may  be  overcome 
by  protecting  the  roofing  material  in  some  way. 

The  Protection  of  Roofing  Material 

A  wooden  grating  is  a  simple  means  of  protection.  This 
can  be  made  from  cheap  unplaned  lumber,  using  support- 
ing strips  three  inches  wide  by  one  inch  thick  and  naihng 
or  screwing  to  them  slats  two  inches  wide  by  one-half 
inch  thick,  spacing  the  slats  one  inch  apart.  Wooden 
gratings  should   be    made  in   sizes   that   may   be   easily 

[411 


FRESH  AIR 


handled,  about  two  feet  wide  by  four  feet  long,  and 
enough  gratings  supplied  to  cover  all  parts  of  the  roof 
which  are  to  be  used. 

Roofs  can  also  be  protected  by  laying    two    by  four 
inch   timbers   on   edge   about  two   feet   apart  over  the 


No.  14. — A  permanent  fresh-air  room  constructed  of  wood  and  protected 
with  glass  and  sash  windows  on  the  top  of  a  brick  building.  {Courtesy  of 
Dr.  TV.  P.  Northrup.) 

roofing  material,  and  on  these  nailing  ordinary  floor 
boards.  A  still  more  simple  way  of  protecting  a  roof 
for  a  short  time  is  by  laying  large  squares  of  thick  lino- 
leum oyer  the  space  required  for  building;  or  two  thick- 
nesses of  grass  matting  will  answer  the  same  purpose. 

[421 


ROOF  BUNGALOWS 


Permanent  Floors  Over  Roofing 

It  is  sometimes  desirable  to  lay  a  permanent  floor  over 
the  roofing  material,  and  this  can  be  done  with  metal 
lath  and  composition  cement  flooring.  Permanent  floors 
should  not  be  laid  directly  on  the  roofing,  as  moisture 
from  the  cement  may  percolate  through,  remaining  be- 
tween the  roofing  and  flooring,  freeze  during  the  winter, 
and  destroy  one  or  both  the  materials.  Two  by  four 
inch  planking  laid  two  feet  apart  will  make  a  good  foun- 
dation for  a  permanent  floor;  to  this  is  tacked  expanded 
metal  or  metal  lath  covered  by  concrete  and  coated  with 
a  composition  flooring  which,  if  carefully  laid,  will  wear 
for  years. 

Situation  and  Exposure 

The  roof  of  any  apartment  house  offers  a  choice  of 
situations,  and  it  should  be  viewed  with  the  idea  of  selecting 
the  best  position  before  constructing  an  open-air  bungalow. 
A  little  careful  consideration  will  show  that  there  are 
various  conditions  to  be  met  on  the  top  of  all  buildings, 
such  as  a  choice  of  the  best  exposure  for  the  open  front 
of  the  small  building;  the  most  protected  place;  one 
that  cannot  be  overlooked  from  neighboring  structures; 
and  one  which  will  afford  some  means  of  anchorage,  so 
that  the  shelter  will  be  safe  during  severe  storms.  Prac- 
tically every  roof  has  one  or  more  positions  which  are 
favorable  for  a  site,  and  the  most  desirable  position  should 
be  selected  when  possible.  In  many  buildings  a  main 
stairway  or  elevator  shaft  ends  in  a  small  superstructure 
4  [43  1 


FRESH  AIR 


No.  15. — Hollow  tile,  glass,  and  sash  were  used  in  constructing  this  fresh-air 
room  on  the  roof  of  a  brick  dwelling. 

on  the  roof.  On  some  are  found  large  water  tanks  or 
reservoirs.  These  additions,  high  cornices,  and  wide 
chimneys  can  all  be  used  as  wind-breaks  in  winter,  and 
for  partial  shade  during  the  summer  months.  Where 
buildings  are  high  and  the  roofs  are  above  surrounding 
structures,  or  if  they  are  without  the  projections  men- 

[44  1 


ROOF  BUNGALOWS 


tioned,  the  bungalow  must  be  very  carefully  anchored  in 
order  to  stand  against  the  wind.  On  private  or  one 
family  houses  there  are  often  extensions  in  the  rear  of 
the  main  building  which  make  excellent  sites  for  roof 
bungalows.  Such  extension  roofs  are  usually  protected 
by  the  house  on  one  side  and  more  or  less  sheltered  from 
high  winds  by  the  buildings  on  adjacent  streets. 

Choice  of  Building  Materials 

Roof  bungalows  can  be  constructed  of  wood,  wooden 
frame  covered  with  sheets  of  galvanized  iron  or  roofing 
paper,  brick,  tile,  or  reinforced  concrete.  For  one  person 
the  structure  should  be  about  twelve  feet  wide  by  twelve 
feet  deep,  and  for  two  persons,  sixteen  feet  wide  by  twelve 
feet  deep. 

Permanent  Roof  Bungalows 

Before  deciding  upon  the  material  to  be  used  it  is  well 
to  consider  making  the  bungalow  a  permanent  structure, 
for  these  buildings  are  always  useful  and  add  to  the  value 
of  property.  If  it  is  to  be  a  permanent  addition,  it  should 
be  constructed  of  the  same  material  as  used  in  the  building 
upon  which  it  is  erected,  and  so  be  incorporated  into  and 
form  a  part  of  the  original  structure.  For  work  of  such 
character  an  architect  or  builder  should  be  consulted. 

Roof  bungalows  may  be  constructed  of  hollow  terra- 
cotta tile  or  brick  laid  in  cement  mortar,  and  plastered 
on  both  the  inner  and  outer  sides.  A  structure  of  this 
sort  has  heat  and  cold  resisting  properties,  and  if  fitted 

[45  1 


FRESH  AIR 


No.  16. — View  of  a  shelter  constructed  of  sheet  iron  nailed  to  a  wooden  frame 
on  the  roof  of  a  brick  building. 

with  glass  and  sash  windows,  may  be  used  during  the  entire 
winter,  both  day  and  night,  making  a  satisfactory  and 
permanent  building  (see  Illustrations  Nos.  14  and  15). 
The  roof  for  a  permanent  building  should  be  of  the  same 
material  as  that  used  on  the  structure  supporting  it, 
generally  either  tin  or  gravel.     A  well-built  brick  or  tile 

[46  1 


ROOF  BUNGALOWS 


bungalow  plastered  on  the  interior  and  closed  on  the 
front  by  glass  and  sash  will  cost  from  three  hundred  to 
four  hundred  dollars. 

Temporary  and  Cheap  Roof  Shelters 

If  the  open  building  is  to  be  of  temporary  or  cheap  con- 
struction, it  is  advisable  to  use  a  wooden  frame  as  a 


No.  17. — View  of  a  slid  tor  constructed  of  corrvigated  iron  nailed  to  a  wooden 

frame  on  the  roof  of  a  brick  building. 

[471 


FRESH  AIR 


No.  18. — A  cheap  roof  shelter  made  of  lattice  work  nailed  to  a  wooden  frame, 
for  use  in  moderate  weather. 


48 


ROOF  BUNGALOWS 


foundation,  for  the  building  can  then  be  moved  and  its 
position  and  exposure  changed  easily.  This  frame  should 
be  made  of  two  by  six  inch  plank  laid  flat  on  the  roof,  and 
mortised  at  the  corners.  Two  by  four  inch  timbers  should 
be  used  for  the  upright  frame  and  siding  boards  for  the 
back  and  sides.  The  front  of  the  bungalow  should  face 
slightly  to  the  east  of  south  and  be  left  open,  but  arranged 
with  a  canvas  curtain  tacked  on  a  roller  so  that  it  can  be 


No.  19. — A  cheap  shelter  constructed  of  wood  and  canvas  on  the  roof  of  a 

tenement  house.     {Courtesy  of  Dr.  Joseph  H.  Pratt.) 

[49  1 


FRESH  AIR 


ffl 


♦^-'o^ 


J=^OJVr^L£.VAr/OM 


TT— — n w 


S£)CTJOU.S  ^B 


i 


.SiECTroA/.  /1-R 


No.  20. — Plans  for  a  wooden  roof  shelter  of  the  lean-to  type,  to  go  with  list  of 
materials  on  page  52.     {Courtesy  of  Mr.  W.  H.  Scopes.) 

closed  in  stormy  weather.  A  shack  of  this  kind  can  be 
built  very  cheaply  of  rough  boards  and  the  roof  covered 
with  tar  paper  or  other  roofing  material. 

In  constructing  the  framework,  uprights  of  two  by  four 
inch  timbers  should  be  placed  at  each  corner  and  the 
intervening  space  on  both  sides  and  the  rear  should  be 

[501 


ROOF  BUNGALOWS 


filled  by  uprights  of  the  same  size  spaced  eighteen  inches 
apart.  The  front  should  be  eight  feet  four  inches  high  and 
the  rear  six  feet  four  inches  high,  in  order  to  allow  a  two- 
foot  fall  for  the  roof.  There  should  be  two  rows  of  studs 
between  the  uprights  made  of  two  by  three  inch  timbers, 
one  three  feet  and  the  other  six  feet  from  the  floor.  This 
framework  when  completed  should  be  braced  if  necessary 


No.  21. — A  temporary  wooden  open-air  shelter  of  the  lean-to  type.  Built 
on  the  roof  of  an  extension,  with  a  side  of  the  main  building  serving  as  a  wind- 
break.    (Courtesy  of  "Country  Life  in  America.") 

'[511 


FRESH  AIR 


in  order  to  obtain  a  rigid  structure  to  hold  the  roof.  The 
rafters  should  be  of  two  by  four  inch  timbers  laid  eighteen 
inches  apart,  and  these  in  turn  covered  by  seven-eighths 
inch  boards  and  protected  by  roofing  paper  or  tin.  The 
sides  of  the  building  may  be  covered  with  roofing  paper, 
clapboards,  or  patent  siding.  A  bungalow  built  in  this 
manner  may  be  moved  from  one  point  to  another  on  the 
roof  and  faced  in  any  direction. 

Illustrations  Nos.  16,  17,  18,  and  19  show  various 
methods  of  constructing  cheap  temporary  fresh-air  quar- 
ters on  roofs,  and  if  studied,  any  of  these  can  be  erected 
without  further  description. 

List  of  Material  for  a  Temporary  Roof  Shelter 

The  following  list  of  material  and  estimate  of  cost  is 
given  for  the  construction  of  buildings  made  of  lumber, 
such  as  are  shown  in  Illustrations  Nos.  20  and  21, 
These  can  be  built  more  cheaply  by  using  second-hand 
lumber  and  doing  the  labor  one's  self. 

328  feet  of  rough  lumber  as  follows,  at  $30.00  per  thou- 
sand      $9.84 

4  pieces,  2  inches  by  4  inches  by  12  feet,  sills, 

5  pieces,  2  inches  by  4  inches  by  12  feet,  floor  joists, 
14  pieces,  2  inches  by  3  inches  by  14  feet,  studs, 

5  pieces,  2  inches  by  3  inches  by  12  feet,  plate, 

1  piece,    2  inches  by  6  inches  by  12  feet,  plate  front, 

1  piece,    2  inches  by  8  inches  by  12  feet,  rail  for 

sliding  sash, 
9  pieces,  2  inches  by  4  inches  by  14  feet,  rafters 

and  rafter  tails  for  front  eaves, 

Carried  forward. . .  .$9.84 

[52  1 


ROOF  BUNGALOWS 


Brought  forward $9.84 

300  feet  of  novelty  siding  for  walls  at  $30.00  per  thousand  9.00 

250  feet  of  shiplap  roof  boards  at  $26.00  per  thousand  .  .  6.50 

200  feet  of  J/g-inch  common  flooring  at  $32.00  per  thousand  6.40 

Y2  roll  Neponset  Red  Rope  Roofing  at  $5.00  per  roll  .  .  2.50 

10  pieces  of  1-inch  half  round  for  roofing  at  1  cent  per  foot  1.40 

1  canvas  curtain  on  roll    5.00 

4  sliding  sash,  3  feet  by  3  feet,  at  $2.00 8.00 

1  casement  sash  and  frame,  2  feet  by  2  feet,  at  $2.00.  .  .  2.00 

Hardware 1.00 

Strips  for  sliding  sash 1.00 

Paint 5.00 


$61.64 
Labor 25.00 

$86.64 


53 


CHAPTER  IV 

Wall  Houses  and  Iron  Frame  Porches 
for  City  Use 

Selecting  a  Position 

WHEN  it  is  undesirable  to  use  the  roof  of  one's  home 
as  a  site  for  an  open-air  bungalow,  a  choice  may  be 
made  between  an  iron  frame  porch  and  a  wall  house  open- 
ing out  from  one  of  the  bedrooms.  In  cities  and  large 
towns  the  fire  regulations  must  be  consulted,  and  usually 
a  permit  obtained  from  the  building  department  for  the 
erection  of  such  quarters,  but  when  fire  laws  are  complied 
with,  this  is  generally  obtainable  without  difficulty. 

In  choosing  a  suitable  position  for  a  fresh-air  bedroom 
it  should  be  remembered  that  early  morning  sounds  and 
sunlight  are  to  be  eliminated  if  possible.  This  can  some- 
times be  done  by  selecting  a  room  as  far  from  the  street 
as  possible,  and  by  shading  the  bed  with  blinds.  As  in 
the  case  of  roofs,  there  is  a  choice  of  sites  both  on  private 
and  apartment  houses.  One's  neighbors  should  be  taken 
into  consideration  and  a  position  decided  upon,  if  possible, 
which  does  not  overlook  their  windows,  porches,  or  yards. 
Many  city  buildings  have  angles,  corners,  and  courts, 

[54  1 


WALL  HOUSES  AND  IRON  FRAME  PORCHES 


No.  22. — Two  views  of  the  wall  house  "Starnook."  The  roof  raised  and 
shutters  open  to  obtain  sunlight,  and  the  house  closed  for  outdoor  sleeping 
at  night.     {Courtesy  of  Dr.  S.  A.  Knopf.) 


making  breaks  in  the  outer  walls  which  give  protection 
against  the  direct  rays  of  the  sun  in  summer  and  heavy 
winds  in  the  colder  seasons.  A  little  study  will  quickly 
show  the  position  which  is  most  advantageous.  Some- 
times new  doors  or  windows  will  be  needed  to  give  access 

[55  1 


FRESH  AIR 


to  a  desired  position  on  the  outside  of  the  building. 
Frames  and  wall  houses  can  usually  be  secured  with 
safety  to  the  walls  of  buildings  at  any  height,  and  when 
strongly  supported,  there  need  be  no  fear  in  regard  to  their 
stability. 

The  "Starnook"  Wall  House 

The  wall  house  known  as  Dr.  Knopf's  "Starnook,"  shown 
in  Illustration  No.  22,  can  be  used  in  any  of  these  positions, 
and  may  be  supported  by  the  roof  of  an  extension,  columns, 
or  on  brackets  attached  to  the  walls  of  the  building. 
This  fresh-air  room  consists  of  a  roof,  floor,  and  three  walls, 
and,  with  the  exception  of  the  roof  and  floor,  is  built  of 
steel  frames  holding  movable  shutters.  The  apartment  is 
nine  feet  long  by  six  feet  deep,  and  the  roof  is  eight  feet 
high  at  the  inner  side,  with  a  fall  of  two  feet.  At  both  ends 
are  windows  which  can  be  opened  outward.  A  frame 
flUed  with  glass  closes  the  triangular  spaces  at  the  ends 
under  the  sloping  roof,  but  there  is  a  narrow  space  be- 
tween the  top  of  the  walls  and  the  roof  which  is  left  open 
to  allow  for  the  circulation  of  air.  The  roof  can  be  raised 
entirely  off  the  apartment  by  means  of  a  crank  and  coun- 
terweights, and  the  three  upper  sections  of  the  front 
shutters  can  be  opened  or  closed. 

The  Phillips  Wall  House 

The  Phillips  Wall  House,  shown  in  Illustrations  Nos.  23 
and  24,  is  a  fresh-air  sleeping  room  which  can  be  dismantled 
during  the  day  when  not  in  use,  so  as  to  allow  the  window 

[56  1 


WALL  HOUSES  AND  IRON  FRAME  PORCHES 


No.  23. — The  Phillips  folding  wall  house  in  place  and  ready  for  outdoor 

sleeping. 

[57] 


FRESH  AIR 


or  door  by  which  it  is  entered  to  be  free  and  receive  sun- 
Hght.  It  is  supported  by  steel  brackets  swung  on  hinged 
pins,  and,  with  the  exception  of  the  roof,  which  is  covered 
with  sheet-iron  or  a  canvas  curtain,  the  entire  room  is 
constructed  of  steel.  The  floor  is  hinged  to  the  wall  just 
below  the  window-sill,  and  can  be  dropped  like  a  movable 
shelf  by  means  of  a  lever.  The  sides  and  front  are  en- 
closed with  steel  shutters  about  the  size  of  ordinary  wooden 
blinds  used  on  old-fashioned  country  houses.  These  are 
hinged  to  each  other  and  when  folded  together  resemble  a 
closed  Japanese  screen.  The  room  when  open  and  in 
place  and  covered  by  the  roof  is  six  feet  six  inches  long 
by  four  feet  wide  and  six  feet  high  on  the  inner  side,  the 
roof  having  a  fall  of  one  foot  six  inches. 

An  Iron  Frame  Porch 

An  iron  sleeping  porch  or  frame  (see  Illustration  No.  25) 
can  be  built  in  the  same  manner  as  an  ordinary  fire-escape 
platform  used  on  tenement  houses  in  large  cities.  Such  a 
sleeping  porch  is  fireproof,  as  it  is  constructed  entirely  of 
wrought  iron  or  steel,  and  should  be  about  ten  feet  long 
by  five  feet  wide.  The  floor  is  constructed  of  flat  steel 
bars  one  and  one-half  inches  wide  by  three-eighths  of  an 
inch  thick  and  spaced  one  inch  apart;  this  in  turn  to  be 
covered  by  composition  flooring.  The  side  and  end  rail- 
ings are  three  feet  high,  the  upper  rail  being  made  from  a 
flat  bar,  one  and  three-fourths  inches  wide  by  one-half 
inch  thick.  The  centre  and  lower  rail  are  one  and  one- 
half  inches  wide  by  three-eighths  of  an  inch  thick,  and 

[58] 


WALL  HOUSES  AND  IRON  FRAME  PORCHES 


No.  24. — The  Phillip.^  folding  wall  house  thrown  open   to  allow  sunshine  to 
reach  the  window  through  which  it  is  entered. 


59 


FRESH  AIR 


these  are  braced  by  upright  cylindrical  iron  rods  one-half 
inch  in  diameter.  At  each  corner  of  the  porch  is  an  iron 
rod  supporting  a  frame  upon  which  a  canvas  curtain 
may  be  laid.  The  whole  porch  exclusive  of  the  curtain 
may  be  made  and  placed  in  position  for  about  fifty  dollars, 
and  when  fitted  with  overhead  and  side  canvas  curtains 
can  be  used  in  temperate  climates  for  about  nine  months 
out  of  the  year,  and  will  be  found  convenient  for  other 
uses  when  attached  to  apartment  or  private  houses  in 
large  cities. 

Iron  Porches  for  Tenement  Houses 

It  is  vitally  important  to  the  health  of  thickly  settled 
communities  that  open  porches,  where  fresh  air  can  be 
obtained  without  leaving  the  home,  be  provided  in  con- 
nection with  the  apartments  of  tenement  houses.  In 
many  of  the  smaller  cities  and  towns,  where  wood  is  still 
being  used  for  constructing  buildings,  back  porches,  as 
shown  in  Illustration  No.  27,  are  planned  for  as  an  essen- 
tial part  of  an  apartment,  and  temporary  wooden  porches 
can  be  erected  like  the  one  shown  in  Illustration  No.  28, 
but  in  the  larger  cities,  where  fire  regulations  prohibit  the 
use  of  inflammable  material  for  building  purposes,  little 
has  as  yet  been  done  to  provide  porches  for  new  build- 
ings. It  is  hoped  that  the  time  is  not  far  distant  when 
public  opinion  will  bring  about  the  passage  of  laws  com- 
pelling those  proposing  to  construct  new  buildings  to  add 
one  or  more  balconies  to  their  plans  as  part  of  every 
apartment. 

[60  1 


WALL  HOUSES  AND  IRON  FRAME  PORCHES 


No.  25. — An  iron  frame  sleeping  porch  for  city  use,  built  in  the  same  manner 

as  a  fire-escape. 


The  Vanderbilt  Open  Stair  Tenements 

A  start  in  this  direction  has  been  made  in  New  York 
City  with  the  construction  of  the  new  Vanderbilt  Open 
Stair  Tenements,  which  are  designed  to  supply  each  family 
with  a  balcony  (see  Illustration  No.  26).     These  balconies 

[61  I 


FRESH  AIR 


are  made  of  steel  rods  supported  on  heavy  artistic  steel 
brackets,  with  floors  of  reinforced  concrete  overlaid  with 
tile.     The  buildings  were  constructed  for  the  purpose  of 


No.  26. — A  new  method  of  providing  fresh  air  for  the  family  in  a  model  tene- 
ment.    Each  apartment  opens  on  to  an  iron  balcony. 
[62  1 


WALL  HOUSES  AND  IRON  FRAME  PORCHES 


No.  27. — Permanent  fre.sh-air  porches  are  now  supplied  in  connection  with 
many  wooden  tenements. 


offering  to  persons  who  have  incipient  tuberculosis  better 
hygienic  conditions  than  are  to  be  found  in  other  tenement 
houses  in  the  city.     They  consist  of  four  large  fireproof 


0.'j 


FRESH  AIR 


structures  and  occupy  a  space  of  eighteen  city  lots,  facing 
a  park  on  the  East  River  front  between  Seventy-seventh 
and  Seventy-eighth  Streets.  There  is  a  large  light  and 
airy  court  in  the  centre  of  each  building  from  which  pas- 
sageways, designed  after  those  used  in  many  European 
cities,  lead  to  the  street  on  both  sides.  Outside  protected 
stairways  are  placed  in  each  corner  of  the  courts  in  order 
to  do  away  with  the  badly  ventilated  interior  halls  and 


No.  28. — A  temporary  wooden  sleeping  porch  with  glass  and  sash  protection, 
over  the  roof  of  a  permanent  veranda  on  the  rear  of  a  tenement  house. 

[  64  1 


WALL  HOUSES  AND  IRON  FRAME  PORCHES 


No.  29. — Open  rooms  or  loggias  seen  on  the  rear  of  tenement  houses  in 
European  cities. 

[65  1 


FRESH  AIR 


stairways  which  often  become  unsanitary  in  ordinary  city 
tenements.  The  recesses  and  angles  in  which  the  stairs  are 
built  are  lined  with  white  glazed  tile,  and  at  each  turn  of 
the  stair  is  a  seat  set  into  the  iron  railing  to  provide  a 
resting-place  for  children  and  invalids.  The  entire  roof 
area  is  utilized  for  outdoor  life,  with  loggias  and  big  com- 
fortable seats  placed  in  various  positions. 

The  European  Apartment  House  Loggia 

In  some  European  cities  many  of  the  apartment  houses 
are  built  with  a  loggia  on  each  story  within  the  roof  pro- 
jection (see  Illustration  No.  29).  These  are  used  during 
the  summer  months  as  open-air  sitting  rooms,  and  in 
many  instances  throughout  the  entire  year  as  fresh-air 
sleeping  apartments,  with  only  canvas  curtains  for  pro- 
tection. 


66 


CHAPTER  V 

Temporary  Fresh -air  Porches  for  Country 

Use 

Sheltered  Positions  for  Porches 

IN  a  small  town  or  in  the  country,  it  will  usually  be 
found  that  a  wooden  porch  is  the  most  convenient 
way  of  providing  fresh-air  quarters.  In  selecting  a  situa- 
tion for  a  sleeping  or  sitting-out  porch,  it  is  well  to  remem- 
ber that  it  should  be  placed  in  a  sheltered  position,  and 
the  most  important  point  is  to  find  a  spot  protected  from 
prevailing  winds. 

If  a  porch  for  winter  use  is  to  be  built,  it  should,  if 
possible,  be  placed  on  the  south  side  of  the  house  in  order 
to  receive  the  greatest  amount  of  sunshine.  In  summer 
this  position  is  usually  very  hot,  and  it  will  be  found  that 
in  most  climates  an  east  or  west  exposure  for  a  porch  to  be 
used  during  the  entire  year  gives  the  best  satisfaction. 

Suggestions  for  Constructing  Porches 

A  porch  to  be  comfortable  should  be  rather  large,  a 
good  size  being  ten  feet  wide  by  ten  feet  long  and  seven 
feet  or  more  in  height  from  floor  to  ceiling.  The  floor 
should  be  laid  with  narrow  spruce  boards  at  a  grade  of 

[67  1 


FRESH  AIR 


iilUUihv 


No.  30. — A  temporary  wooden  porcli  supported  on  the  roof  of  a  front  veranda, 
with  the  sides  boarded  up  for  use  in  winter  weather. 


68 


TEMPORARY  FRESH-AIR  PORCHES 

one  inch  to  five  feet,  using  white  lead  and  oil  to  fill  in  the 
cracks.  The  roof  may  be  made  with  boards  covered  with 
tin  or  roofing  paper,  the  end  most  exposed  to  the  wind 
and  rain  protected  by  glass  and  sash,  and  the  sides  below 
the  railing  tightly  boarded  to  prevent  drafts  from  below. 
For  a  passageway  to  the  porch  cut  a  window  down  to  the 
floor  and  put  in  a  door  three  feet  six  inches  wide,  so  that  a 


No.  31. — A  well-finished  porch  placed  in  an  angle  of  a  house  and  supported 
on  four  by  four  inch  timber  posts. 

[69  1 


FRESH  AIR 


No.  32. — A  third-story  temporary  porch  for  use  in  moderate  weather,  sup- 
ported on  four  by  four  inch  timber  posts. 

[701 


TEMPORARY  FRESH-AIR  PORCHES 

three  foot  bed  can  be  rolled  from  the  interior  of  the  house 
to  the  porch  without  difficulty.  These  porches  can  be 
supported  from  the  ground  on  long  four  by  four  inch  posts, 
or  built  on  brackets  bolted  to  the  side  of  the  house. 

Many  porches  used  both  for  sitting-out  and  sleeping 
purposes  have  been  built  on  the  roofs  of  first  story  ex- 
tensions or  verandas.  When  such  means  of  support  are 
utilized,  the  roofing  over  which  the  porch  will  rest  need 
not  be  removed  or  damaged,  as  a  permanent  floor  laid  on 


No.  33. — A  very  cheap  porcli  supporterl  by  wooden  braces  and  protected  by 
a  canvas  awning. 

[71] 


FRESH  PAIR 


No.  34. — A  well-finished  wooden  porch,  for  use  in  moderate  weather,  pro- 
tected by  an  angle  of  the  house  and  supported  by  a  four  inch  post. 


[72] 


TEMPORARY  FRESH-AIR  PORCHES 

joists  can  be  built  at  a  proper  level  by  supporting  the 
beams  at  the  inner  end  on  the  wall  of  the  house  and  at  the 
outer  end  by  the  edge  of  the  veranda. 

Cost  of  Temporary  Porches 

An  excellent  temporary  porch  that  will  harmonize  with 
the  house  to  which  it  is  to  be  added  can  be  built  for  from 


.  -^--^m 

J. 

1 

M 

n 

iii 

H  ^mI 

1 11*  i 

1 '  1 1  ill  1 1 M  wi-g^m 

si 

KpUi 

i|i'.  "^ 

^'^^^^^^^^^^hH^OT^'                          1^1 

■ 

mfUr 

^M 

■■■■i 

^ 

K 

.    wtt^^tete 

No.  35. — A  temporary  porch  supported  on  the  roof  of  a  front  veranda,  show- 
ing method  of  protection  with  canvas  curtains. 
[73] 


FRESH  AIR 


No.  36. — A  temporary  wooden  porch  placed  for  protection  in  an  angle  of  the 
house  and  supported  on  four  by  four  inch  timber  posts. 

one  hundred  to  two  hundred  dollars,  the  cost  depending 
largely  upon  the  manner  in  which  it  is  finished. 

A  cheap,  useful  porch,  large  enough  to  receive  a  bed  and 
effective  for  open-air  sleeping,  can  be  built  for  from  fifteen 
to  thirty  dollars.  A  window  can  be  used  for  the  approach, 
but  for  convenience  should  be  cut  down  to  the  floor  and  a 
small  door  put  in  below  the  window-sash. 

[74  1 


TEMPORARY  FRESH-AIR  PORCHES 

The  porches  shown  in  this  chapter  were  selected  to 
illustrate  the  various  methods  of  building  cheap  and 
temporary  structures,  and  they  can  all  be  duplicated  by  a 
good  carpenter  after  a  study  of  the  photographs. 

Materials  and  Construction  of  Dr.  Carey's  Porch 

The  following  is  a  description  given  by  Dr.  H.  W.  Carey 
of  an  economically  constructed  porch  ten  feet  long  by  five 
feet  wide,  used  in  Troy  by  workingmen's  families  for  open- 
air  sleeping  purposes.     (See  Hlustrations  Nos.  37  and  38.) 


MATERIALS  AND  COST 

Hardware: 

Yi  pound  20d  wire  nails $  .03 

2  pounds  lOd  wire  nails 10 

2  pounds  8d  wire  nails 10 

4  hinges,  with  screws  for  same 50 

2  hooks  and  eyes,  with  extra  eyes 10 

1  roll  of  tar  paper  and  tacks  for  same 1.00 

Lumher: 
1  piece,  2  inches  by  6  inches  by  20  feet,  Bearing  beams  for 

supporting  the  floor 60 

1  piece,  2  inches  by  4  inches  by  12  feet,  Plate  to  support 

the  roof 

5  pieces,  2  inches  by  4  inches  by  16  feet.  Floor  joists    !-       3.04 

and  studding 

6  pieces,  2  inches  by  4  inches  by  14  feet,  Studding ....     , 
208  feet  of  North  Carolina  pine  sheathing  or  shiplap  in 

lengths  of  16  feet 5.00 

2  window-.sashes,  3  feet  wide  by  ^Yi  feet  high 4.50 


Carried  forward  $14.97 

75  1 


FRESH  AIR 


No.  37. — One  of  the  porches  used  by  workingmen's  families  in  Troy,  N.  Y., 
for  open-air  sleeping  purposes.     {Courtesy  of  Dr.  H.  W.  Carey.) 


76 


TEMPORARY  FRESH-AIR  PORCHES 

Brought  forward  $14,97 
Labor 4.00 

Total $18.97 

The  cost  can  be  reduced  by  substituting  canvas  for 
window-sash.  One  and  three-fourth  yards  of 
canvas  two  yards  wide  will  cost  $1.14.  Sub- 
tracted from  $4.50 $3.36 

Labor  saved  if  built  by  owner 4.00 

7.36 

Minimum  cost $11.61 

Either  a  carpenter  should  be  asked  to  bid  on  the  work 
and  buy  the  materials  at  wholesale  prices  after  seeing  the 
estimate  and  plans,  or  the  lumber  and  hardware  pur- 
chased and  a  carpenter  hired  to  put  up  the  structure. 

The  floor,  sides,  and  roof  of  the  porch  are  made  of  North 
Carolina  pine  sheathing,  or  if  this  cannot  be  obtained,  of 
shiplap.  The  frame,  floor  joists,  and  rafters  are  of  two  by 
four  inch  spruce  timbers  and  the  structure  is  supported  on 
two  by  six  inch  bearing  beams  resting  on  brackets  or  on 
posts  from  the  ground.  The  floor  should  come  two  feet 
below  the  level  of  the  window  through  which  the  porch  is 
entered. 

If  anyone  desires  to  build  this  porch  without  hiring 
skilled  labor,  the  directions  given  below  should  be  followed, 
care  being  taken  in  cutting  the  lumber  so  as  not  to  waste 
the  material. 

DIRECTIONS  FOR  CONSTRUCTION 

The  Floor  Level. — Measure  and  mark  a  point  two  feet  ten 
inches  below  the  level  of  the  window-sill  through  which 

[77  1 


FRESH  AIR 


JrrrmrrTTTnrr^'''''^''^^^^'^^^ 


Thii-d  Story 
ft>  *#  ^^^ofim*^  try 

^hmt'/of-    to   dri 


No.  38. — Drawings  showing  details  of  Dr.  Carey's  porch. 

the  porch  will  be  entered  and  from  this  point  measure 
the  distance  to  the  ground. 

Su'p'ports. — Cut  four  two  by  four  inch  pieces  for  supports, 
two  of  sufficient  length  to  reach  from  the  ground  to  the  mark 
below  the  window,  and  two  six  inches  longer.     This  is  done 

[78  1 


TEMPORARY  FRESH-AIR  PORCHES 

in  order  that  the  floor  will  be  level.  Then  nail  the  two 
shorter  pieces  to  the  house  for  back  supports,  ten  feet 
apart,  outside  measurement.  Then  place  the  two  re- 
maining pieces  five  feet  to  the  front  of  these,  outside 
measurement,  and  stay  in  place  with  sheathing. 

Floor  Beams. — Cut  the  twenty  foot  piece  of  two  by  six 
inch  bearing  beam  in  half.  Nail  one  piece  across  the  tops 
of  the  back  supports  against  the  house  and  nail  the  other 
piece  against  the  two  front  supports  on  the  inside,  and 
flush  with  their  top. 

Floor  Joists. — Cut  five,  two  by  four  inch  pieces  into  five 
foot  lengths  for  floor  joists  and  nail  them  at  equal  dis- 
tances across  the  two  bearing  beams  just  described. 

The  Floor. — Lay  the  floor  with  sheathing  in  ten  foot 
lengths. 

The  Roof  Supports. — Cut  two,  two  by  four  inch  pieces 
in  eight  foot  lengths  and  fasten  them  to  the  house  directly 
over  the  back  supports.  Then  cut  four,  two  by  four  inch 
pieces  in  seven  foot  lengths  for  the  front  pillars  and  one 
ten  feet  in  length  for  the  roof  plate.  Nail  two  of  the 
seven  foot  pieces  at  right  angles  to  the  ten  foot  piece 
flush  with  its  ends.  At  intervals  of  three  feet  inside 
measurement,  fasten  the  two  remaining  seven  foot  pieces 
and  raise  this  frame  in  place  and  nail  the  lower  ends  to 
the  floor  over  the  supporting  posts. 

I  7J)  1 


FRESH  AIR 


Siding. — Board  up  tightly  with  sheathing  the  entire 
side  of  the  porch  most  exposed  to  the  wind,  and  also  the 
opposite  side  and  front  to  a  height  of  two  feet  six  inches. 

Roof. — Cut  sheathing  boards  into  five  feet  eight  inch 
lengths  and  lay  the  roof,  covering  it  with  tar  paper. 

Wind  Shields. — Hang  two  window-sashes  by  hinges  to 
the  roof  plate  between  the  posts  nearest  the  boarded-up 
end,  so  that  they  can  be  swung  back  and  hooked  up  against 
the  under  side  of  the  roof  in  order  to  be  out  of  the  way  in 
clear  weather.  The  head  of  the  bed  or  couch  should  be 
placed  at  the  enclosed  end.  If  the  porch  is  to  be  only  a 
temporary  structure,  paint  will  not  be  necessary;  if  it  is 
to  be  supported  by  brackets,  four  should  be  made  as  shown 
in  the  plans  and  fastened  to  the  timbers  of  the  house  with 
six  inch  coach  screws.  Second-hand  lumber  and  window- 
sash  may  be  used,  as  these  caii  be  obtained  for  about 
twenty-five  percent  less  than  new  material,  and  canvas 
curtains  fastened  to  a  roller  may  be  substituted  for  the 
window-sash. 

This  porch  is  cheap  enough  to  come  within  the  means  of 
the  average  workingman  or  charitable  organization  doing 
fresh-air  work.  It  is  easily  constructed  and  can  be  at- 
tached to  any  story  of  a  frame  house,  and  the  floor  space, 
five  by  ten  feet,  gives  ample  room  for  a  couch  and  re- 
clining chair. 


80 


CHAPTER  VI 

Permanent  Sleeping  Porches  and   Loggias 
for  Country  Homes 

EVERY  country  house  should  have  a  permanent 
sleeping  porch  in  connection  with  one  or  more  of 
the  bedrooms,  for  sleeping  in  the  open  air  is  a  simple 
method  of  preventing  and  curing  disease.  Ill  health  is 
one  of  the  greatest  handicaps  human  beings  have  to  con- 
tend with,  and  no  expedient  for  retaining  one's  health 
and  strength  should  be  neglected.  Those  who  are  afraid 
of  open-air  sleeping  should  try  it  in  moderate  weather, 
and  if  the  experiments  are  made  in  well-protected  porches 
or  loggias,  there  is  little  doubt  but  that  even  a  skeptic  will 
soon  become  a  devotee  to  the  outdoor  bedroom. 

Situation  and  Protection 

A  permanent  sleeping  porch  to  be  convenient  should 
have  an  entrance  from  a  bedroom,  and  when  possible  from 
a  hall,  for  every  outdoor  sleeper  should  have  during 
cold  weather  a  warm  apartment  in  connection  with  the 
open-air  sleeping  room.     The  same  requirements  regard- 

1811 


FRESH  AIR 


ing  protection  and  exposure  are  necessary  for  a  permanent 
sleeping  porch  as  those  described  in  the  last  chapter  for 
a  temporary  structure.  An  angle  protected  by  two  sides 
of  the  house  is  a  very  good  position  to  choose  if  other 
considerations  are  favorable.  When  possible,  it  is  an 
advantage  to  have  on  one  floor  two  porches,  one  with  a 
northern  and  the  other  with  a  southern  exposure,  arranged 
so  that  both  can  be  reached  easily  from  the  same  bedroom. 
This  will  provide  a  shelter  for  outdoor  sleeping  under 
varying  weather  conditions. 

The  Relation  of  the  Porch  to  the  House 

Permanent  porches  should  be  designed  in  an  artistic 
manner  so  as  to  harmonize  with  the  building  to  which 
they  are  added.  Usually,  they  should  be  constructed  of 
the  same  material  as  that  used  in  the  main  structure,  and 
if  possible,  appear  to  be  a  part  of  the  original  design  and 
not  an  afterthought.  When  the  height  of  the  porch  is 
such  as  to  bring  its  roof  on  or  near  the  level  of  the  roof  of 
the  main  building,  the  cornice  of  the  porch  should  be  con- 
tinuous with  or  correspond  to  that  of  the  house.  The 
roof  of  the  porch  should  be  of  the  same  general  design  and 
the  roofing  material  harmonize  with  that  of  the  house. 
The  interior  of  the  porch  should  be  finished  in  the  same 
manner  as  the  other  verandas,  unless  it  is  to  be  an  outdoor 
room  or  loggia  rather  than  a  porch.  Then  the  walls  should 
be  sealed  with  narrow  matched  boards  of  good  quality, 
such  as  selected  Georgia  pine,  and  treated  with  a  liquid 
filler. 

[821 


PERMANENT  SLEEPING  PORCHES  AND  LOGGIAS 

Treatment  of  Floors 

There  are  various  waterproof  floorings  which  have  been 
used  with  good  success  for  open  sleeping  rooms,  such  as 
rubber  tihng  and  composition  cement,  but  an  ordinary 
well-laid  board  floor  is  very  satisfactory  if  covered  for  pro- 
tection against  the  weather  with  battleship  linoleum  glued 
to  the  floor  or  a  heavy  grade  of  canvas  stretched  and  laid 
in  white  lead  and  oil.  This  covering  after  it  is  laid  should 
be  painted  or  varnished  with  coach  varnish. 

Converting  a  Corner  Room  into  a  Loggia 

Where  a  spare  room  can  be  used  for  the  purpose,  a 
simple  and  efi^ective  method  of  making  a  permanent  open- 
air  sleeping  loggia  is  to  remove  the  walls  of  the  two  outer 
sides  of  a  corner  room.  The  lower  portion  of  these  walls 
three  feet  high  from  the  floor  should  be  left  standing  to 
serve  as  a  parapet,  and  a  post  or  pillar  placed  at  the  corner 
and  at  other  points  if  necessary,  to  support  the  roof. 
The  ceiling  and  remaining  walls  should  be  protected 
against  the  weather  by  paint  and  coach  varnish,  or  other 
waterproofing  material. 

The  illustrations  in  this  chapter  have  been  selected 
to  show  various  situations  on  houses  which  can  be  used 
for  porches  and  loggias;  the  manner  in  which  a  portion 
of  the  main  building  will  often  act  as  a  wind  shield, 
or  in  some  other  way  give  partial  protection,  and  the 
methods  of  constructing  open-air  apartments  so  that 
they  will  harmonize  with  the  building  to  which  they  are 
added. 

[83] 


FRESH  AIR 


No.  39. — A  well-built  permanent  porch  supported  by  the  roof  of  the  first 
story  veranda.  Constructed  of  material  and  roofed  in  a  manner  to  harmonize 
with  the  trimmings  of  the  house. 

A  Fresh-air  Room  Protected  by  Glazed  Sash 

The  fresh-air  room  shown  in  illustration  No.  39  has 
been  added  to  the  rear  of  the  second  story  of  a  large  brick 
house.  It  has  a  southern  exposure  and  is  protected  on 
the  north  by  the  wall  of  the  house  and  on  the  west  by  a 
wing  of  the  building,  which  extends  back  forty  or  fifty 
feet,  forming  a  right  angle  with  the  main  structure.     The 

[84  1 


PERMANENT  SLEEPING  PORCHES  AND  LOGGIAS 

room  is  protected  on  three  sides  by  vertically  sliding 
glazed  sash  which  are  counterbalanced  by  weights  hung 
in  the  pillars  supporting  the  roof.  When  the  room  is 
open,  the  sash  are  partially  concealed  in  pockets  above 
the  frames.  The  apartment  is  constructed  over  the  roof 
of  the  first  story  veranda,  and  is  supported  by  the  wall 
of  the  house  and  the  posts  of  the  lower  porch.  It  was 
carefully  designed  to  harmonize  with  the  building,  and 
appears  to  be  a  part  of  the  original  plan.  The  balus- 
trade around  the  edge  of  the  lower  roof  prevents  persons 
on  the  ground  from  looking  directly  into  the  lower  part 
of  the  open  room.  As  it  matches  the  rail  on  the  first- 
story  porch,  it  also  adds  to  the  trimming  of  the  house,  and 
does  away  with  the  unfinished  appearance  which  some 
fresh-air  rooms  have  when  placed  in  this  position. 

An  Example  of  an  Inexpensive  Sleeping  Porch 

The  sleeping  porch  on  the  second  story  of  the  country 
residence  shown  in  Illustration  No.  40  was  designed  to 
correspond  with  the  first  story  veranda,  and  so  improves 
rather  than  injures  the  appearance  of  the  house,  although 
it  was  constructed  in  a  most  economical  way.  The  floor  and 
roof  of  the  upper  porch  are  supported  by  four  by  four  inch 
dressed  timber  posts,  placed  six  feet  apart,  and  the  space 
between  them  is  divided  into  three  sections  by  two  by 
four  inch  timbers.  The  interior  is  protected  by  canvas 
curtains  fastened  to  the  roof  plate,  and  arranged  so  as  to 
be  raised  or  lowered  by  ropes  and  pulleys  that  pass  around 
rollers  tacked  to  their  lower  edges.     These  curtains  are 

(85  1 


FRESH  AIR 


No.  40. — An  inexpensive,  permanent,  second  story  sleeping  porch,  built  to 
harmonize  with  the  first  story  veranda. 


made  about  six  feet  wide  in  order  to  fit  in  between  the 
supporting  posts,  and  rest  against  the  smaller  timbers. 
This  arrangement  helps  materially  in  keeping  the  curtains 
firm  during  stormy  weather,  as  both  the  rollers  and  canvas 
can  be  securely  tied  to  the  frames.  The  manner  of  using 
the  short  two  by  four  inch  pieces  of  timber  for  the  railing 
should  be  noted,  as  they  assist  in  producing  an  effect  of 

[86  1 


PERMANENT  SLEEPING  PORCHES  AND  LOGGIAS 

permanency,  which  is  increased  by  continuing  the  cornice 
of  the  house  around  the  edge  of  the  porch  roof. 

A  Permanent  Open  Room  Over  a  Front  Entrance 

There  are  a  number  of  interesting  features  to  be  noted 
in  the  attractive  porch  shown  in  Illustration  No.  41.  It 
has  a  substantial,  permanent  aspect,  and  although  placed 
on  the  front  of  the  house  over  the  main  entrance,  it  does 
not  seem  out  of  place,  for  it  harmonizes  with  the  archi- 
tecture, and  improves  the  appearance  of  the  building. 
This  attractive  effect  is  largely  obtained  by  using  sup- 


No.  41. — .\  permanent  porcli  supported  on  the  roof  of  the  front  veninda  and  de- 
signed to  correspond  vvitli  tlie  original  architecture  of  the;  liousc. 
IS7I 


FRESH  AIR 


No.  42. — An  open-air  sitting  room  and  sleeping  porch  designed  to  har- 
monize with  tlae  architecture  of  a  country  home.  {Courtesy  of  the  "Ladies' 
Home  Journal.'") 


ports  at  the  outer  corners  of  the  open  room,  built  to  re- 
semble those  carrying  the  roof  of  the  first  story  veranda. 
These  supports  appear  as  a  continuation  of  those  on  either 
side  of  the  main  entrance,  and  like  them  are  finished 
with  stained  shingles  and  white  trimming.  The  fresh-air 
room  is  supported  on  the  roof  of  the  lower  veranda,  and 
in  order  to  obtain  a  sufficient  height  for  its  interior  and 
lay  the  floor  on  the  same  level  with  that  of  the  second  story 
of  the  house,  the  roofing  material  was  cut  away.  On 
either  side  the  roof  of  the  veranda  remains  in  its  original 
position,  and  is  about  eighteen  inches  higher  than  the  floor 

[88] 


PERMANENT  SLEEPING  PORCHES  AND  LOGGIAS 

of  the  open  room,  at  the  point  where  it  touches  the  wall 
of  the  main  building.  The  roof  and  eaves  of  the  porch 
are  designed  to  correspond  with  those  of  the  house,  and 
the  gutter  under  the  eaves  is  a  continuation  of  the  one 
under  the  main  roof.  The  trimming  is  also  the  sam.e  as 
that  of  the  main  building,  except  that  the  open  room  is 
protected  by  a  balustrade  with  uprights  painted  white, 
instead  of  a  parapet  covered  with  stained  shingles,  as  is 
used  on  the  lower  veranda. 

An  Open  Sitting  Room  and  Sleeping  Porch  on  the 
End  of  a  House 
The  building  shown  in  Illustration  No.  42  was  designed 
on  the  lines  of  an  old-fashioned  New  England  farmhouse, 
and  the  open-air  sitting  room  and  sleeping  porch  built  at 
one  end  are  a  harmonious  addition  and  increase  its  at- 
tractiveness. Although  quite  distinct  from  the  main 
building,  the  open  rooms  were  carefully  designed  to  con- 
form with  the  style  of  architecture,  and  in  constructing 
them  the  roof  was  made  of  the  same  material  and  given 
a  corresponding  pitch.  Clapboards  were  used  where 
boarding  was  necessary,  and  the  style  of  the  cornice  fol- 
lows that  on  the  main  structure.  The  parapet  of  the 
sleeping  porch  is  made  solid  to  prevent  a  draft  close  to 
the  floor,  and  both  rooms  are  protected  on  all  sides  by 
canvas  cui-Lains  which  fold  upon  themselves  when  they 
are  drawn  up  by  ropes  run  through  pulleys.  The  treat- 
ment of  the  space  between  the  supporting  pillars  below 
the  floor  of  the  second  story  to  produce  the  appearance 

89  1 


FRESH  AIR 


No.  43. — A  sleeping  porch  and  open-air  sitting  room  at  the  rear  of  a  country 
residence,  arranged  to  harmonize  with  the  architecture. 


of  an  arch,  although  a  small  matter,  is  effective,  as  it  re- 
lieves the  severity  of  all  square  corners. 

Two  Open  Rooms  in  a  Wing  at  the  Rear  of  a  House 

The  method  of  building  the  open-air  sitting  room  and 
sleeping  porch  on  the  country  residence  shown  in  Illustra- 
tion No.  43  is  quite  different  from  that  shown  in  Illustra- 
tion No.  42,  although  in  both  instances  they  are  placed 
in  very  much  the  same  relation  to  the  building.     Here  the 

[90  1 


PERMANENT  SLEEPING  PORCHES  AND  LOGGIAS 

open  rooms  are  intended  to  have  the  appearance  of  loggias 
rather  than  that  of  porches.  This  manner  of  construc- 
tion gives  better  weather  protection  to  fresh-air  rooms,  and 
is  often  adopted  when  apartments  of  this  kind  are  in- 
tended for  use  during  the  entire  year.  The  space  be- 
tween the  top  of  the  parapet  and  the  roof  plate  is  arranged 
to  be  of  such  a  height  that  either  sliding  sash  or  casement 
windows  will  fit  them,  and  frames  to  which  they  can  be 
attached  are  fitted  in  the  opening.  The  lower  room  in 
this  instance  is  screened  with  wire  netting  stretched  upon 
frames  that  fit  snugly  into  the  casing,  and  are  also  ar- 
ranged to  hold  casement  windows  during  cold  weather. 
The  upper  room  is  protected  by  canvas  curtains.  The 
cornice  of  the  first  story,  which  is  a  continuation  of  the 
eaves  around  the  roof  of  the  entry,  and  projects  out  above 
the  openings  of  the  sitting  room,  should  be  noted,  as  it 
produces  an  overhanging  break  in  the  walls,  to  which  a 
gutter  is  attached  to  prevent  rain  water  from  dripping 
on  to  the  window-sills  below.  The  wing  is  built  to  con- 
form with  the  architecture  of  the  main  building  in  order 
to  give  it  an  air  of  permanence,  and  not  mar  the  appear- 
ance of  the  house. 

An  Example  of  a  Loggia  Placed  in  an  Angle  of  a 

Building 

A  loggia  made  by  carrying  out  the  main  roof  of  the 

building  over  an  angle  of  the  walls  of  a  house  is  shown  in 

Illustration  No.  44.     The  space  formed  by   an   abrupt 

change  in  the  direction  of  the  walls  of  a  building  is  often 

7  f  91  I 


FRESH  AIR 


No.  44. — A  permanent  second  story  sleeping  loggia  covered  by  the  main 
roof  of  the  building,  and  supported  by  posts  of  the  first  story  veranda. 

[92] 


PERMANENT  SLEEPING  PORCHES  AND  LOGGIAS 

left  vacant,  but  in  this  instance  the  ground  area  is  occupied 
by  the  entrance  porch,  and  the  floor  of  the  loggia  is  sup- 
ported by  the  walls  of  the  house  and  the  posts  that  carry 
the  roof  plate  of  the  veranda.  A  portion  of  the  roofing 
over  the  lower  veranda  was  removed  to  furnish  a  level 
space  for  the  floor,  and  a  parapet  about  thirty  inches  high 
was  built  to  enclose  the  two  outer  sides  of  the  apartment. 
Frames  divide  the  space  between  the  coping  of  the  parapet 
and  the  roof  plate,  to  which  casement  windows  can  be 
hung  or  screens  fitted.  Although  this  open  apartment 
was  not  constructed  by  cutting  out  the  two  side  walls 
of  a  corner  room,  it  has  very  much  the  same  appearance 
from  the  exterior  of  the  house  as  a  loggia  made  in  that 
manner.  It  is,  however,  an  addition,  and  its  two  inner 
walls  are  a  part  of  the  main  walls  of  the  building,  which 
are  finished  with  clapboards. 

An  Example  of  an  Enclosed  Porch  in  an  Angle  of  a 
Building 

The  open-air  sleeping  room  shown  in  Illustration  No. 
45  is  a  good  example  of  the  use  of  a  location  which  is  pro- 
tected by  an  angle  in  the  walls  of  a  building.  The  space 
used  is  a  corner  formed  by  a  wing  extending  from  the  main 
structure,  and  although  the  porch  is  not  situated  within 
the  walls,  nor  covered  by  the  main  roof  of  the  house,  its 
position  is  more  sheltered  than  the  loggia  shown  in  Illus- 
tration No.  44.  It  is  covered  by  an  extension  roof,  as  it 
was  impossible  to  carry  the  main  roof  with  the  same  pitch 
beyond  the  walls  of  the  house,  and  construct  a  comfortable 

[93] 


FRESH  AIR 


No.  45. — An  open-air  sleeping  room  set  in  an  angle  of  the  house  and  covered 
by  an  extension  of  the  main  roof  of  the  building. 

open-air  room  on  the  second  story.  Although  both  its 
walls  and  roof  are  purely  additions  to  the  building,  it 
harmonizes  well  with  the  architecture,  and  appears  a  part 
of  the  main  structure.  This  effect  is  due  largely  to  the 
continuation  of  the  cornice  of  the  house  around  the  roof 
of  the  porch. 

The  Roof  of  the  Summer  Kitchen  Used  as  a  Site  for 
a  Sleeping  Porch 
Many  country  houses   are   designed  with   a   wing  ex- 
tending out  to  the  rear,  which  is  used  as  a  storeroom  or 

[94  1 


PERMANENT  SLEEPING  PORCHES  AND  LOGGIAS 


.No.  46.— A  permanent  sleeping  porch  on  a  suburban  residence,  built 
the  roof  of  the  kitchen  extension. 

[95  1 


FBESH  AIR 


No.  47. — A  permanent  sleeping  porch  at  the  rear  of  a  country  house, 
designed  to  harmonize  with  the  original  structure. 

[96] 


PERMANENT  SLEEPING  PORCHES  AND  LOGGIAS 

summer  kitchen.  The  roof  of  this  addition  is  a  very  con- 
venient location  for  a  fresh-air  room,  and  two  examples 
of  sleeping  porches  placed  in  this  position  are  shown  in 
Illustrations  Nos.  46  and  47.  In  many  instances  the 
kitchen  is  covered  with  a  roof  of  the  lean-to  type,  having 
a  fall  of  about  eighteen  inches  from  the  house  wall  to  the 
outer  edge.  The  most  important  point  to  be  considered 
in  using  this  position  is  the  possibility  of  bringing  the  floor 
of  the  porch  on  a  level  with  the  floor  of  the  second  story 
of  the  house,  without  incurring  the  expense  of  cutting 
out  the  roof  below.  The  floor  of  the  second  story  in  the 
house  shown  in  the  first  illustration  was  high  enough  to 
allow  the  laying  of  the  porch  floor  without  interfering  with 
the  lower  roofing,  and  a  few  clapboards  were  used  to  fill 
in'*  the  space  between  them.  Both  these  porches  were 
constructed  so  as  to  be  as  inconspicuous  as  possible,  and 
the  material  and  finish  used  correspond  with  those  on 
the  main  building. 

Fresh-air  Rooms  on  a  Seashore  Home 

The  permanent  sitting  room  and  sleeping  porch  built 
on  the  end  of  the  building  shown  in  Illustration  No.  48 
greatly  add  to  the  attractiveness  of  this  house.  It  should 
be  noted  that  they  were  designed  so  as  to  appear  a  por- 
tion of  the  main  building,  being  finished  in  the  same 
manner  and  with  the  same  material  as  the  other  parts  of 
the  structure.  Both  the  large  sitting  room  on  the  first 
floor,  and  the  sleeping  apartments  on  the  second,  are  pro- 
tected by  Venetian  blinds  which  are  very  convenient  and 

[97  1 


FRESH  AIR 


No.  48. — A  seashore  home  with  a  permanent  open-air  sitting  room  and 
sleeping  porch,  shielded  by  Venetian  blinds. 


suitable  for  summer  use.  The  porches  have  an  eastern 
exposure,  and  the  half  awnings  are  used  to  prevent  the 
direct  sun  rays  from  entering  the  sleeping  apartment  in 
the  early  morning. 


98 


CHAPTER  VII 

Methods  of  Protecting  and  Screening 
Porches 

Protection  for  Cold  Weather 

IN  order  to  sleep  with  comfort  in  the  open  air  on  a 
porch  or  loggia  during  the  winter  months,  besides  the 
necessary  clothing,  which  will  be  described  later,  the 
sleeper  should  be  protected  from  the  wind  and  other 
weather  conditions.  However,  one  sleeps  out-of-doors 
because  of  a  desire  to  breathe  fresh  pure  air,  and  this 
object  must  not  be  thwarted  by  over-protecting  the  sleep- 
ing apartment.  Circulation  of  the  air  is  just  as  much 
needed  in  open-air  structures  as  in  enclosed  habitations. 
Therefore,  in  arranging  for  weather  protection,  apertures 
through  which  cross  ventilation  can  be  obtained  are 
necessary. 

Glass  and  Sash 

A  most  desirable  manner  of  protecting  porches  is  by  the 
use  of  frames  holding  sash  and  glass.  If  economy  is  not 
necessary,  the  entire  porch  may  be  enclosed  with  this 
material,  as  is   shown  in   Illustration  No.  39.     All  the 

[99  1 


FRESH  AIR 


^O^^^neo  Ou7. 


No.  49. — Dr.  Paquin's  "In  and  Out  Sleeper"  for  protecting  the  out- 
door sleeper  from  sudden  storms.  The  bed  is  placed  in  an  alcove  be- 
tween the  porch  and  a  warm  room,  and  is  enclosed  on  both  sides  by 
movable  windows  or  doors. 


frames  should  then  be  arranged  so  that  the  space  which 
they  fill  can  be  entirely  thrown  open.  Sliding  sash, 
which  can  be  folded  down  into  a  pocket  below  the  porch 
railing  or  up  into  boxes  concealed  in  the  roof  or  walls,  are 
convenient  for  the  purpose.  They  should  be  counter- 
balanced in  the  same  way  as  an  ordinary  window-sash, 
with  cords  and  weights,  so  that  they  may  be  adjusted 
without  great  effort.  Square  porch  pillars  with  a  hollow 
interior  to  provide  a  space  in  which  to  conceal  the  counter- 
weights should  be  used,  and  the  sash  held  in  place  and 

f  100  1 


PROTECTING  AND  SCREENING  PORCHES 

guided  either  by  a  wooden  casing  or  a  brass  track.  If 
a  track  is  used,  wheels  to  fit  it  should  be  inserted  into 
the  sides  of  the  sliding  frame. 

Dr.  Paquin's  Alcove 

Dr.  Paquin  of  Asheville  has  described  the  construction 
of  what  he  calls  an  "In  and  Out  Sleeper"  (see  Illustrations 
Nos.  49  and  50),  which  he  claims  is  a  good  method  of 
protecting  persons  sleeping  on  porches  or  loggias  from 
storms  which  suddenly  arise.  It  consists  of  an  alcove  on 
the  back  of  a  porch,  built  of  glass  and  sash  in  frames,  and 
arranged  so  that  the  rear  can  be  opened  directly  into  a 
room  and  the  front  on  to  the  porch.  The  bed  is  placed  in 
the  alcove,  and  the  person  intending  to  sleep  in  the  open  air 
closes  the  outer  windows  and  undresses  in  a  warm  room, 
then  upon  entering  the  bed  closes  the  inner  windows  and 


No.  50. — The  floor  plan  of  Dr.  Paquin's  "In  and  Out 
Sleeper,"  showing  arrangement  for  shutting  off  the  bed  from 
the  room  or  porch. 

f  1011 


FRESH  AIR 


No.  51. — A  sleeping  porch  protected  by  canvas  curtains  hung  on  the  inside 

of  wire  screens. 


102 


PROTECTING  AND  SCREENING  PORCHES 


opens  the  outer  ones,  thus  placing  the  bed  in  the  open  air 
without  moving  it.  In  the  morning  the  arrangement  of 
the  windows  can  be  reversed,  thus  returning  the  bed  to  a 
warm  dressing  room.  If  a  sudden  storm  comes  up  in  the 
night,  the  bed  can  be  protected  at  once  by  puHing  down 
the  outside  sash  and  pushing  up  the  inside  one.  The  con- 
struction of  this  device  is  simple,  as  can  be  seen  on  the  floor 
plan,  and  it  is  said  to  work  well  at  the  Indiana  State  Hos- 
pital, where  it  has  been  adopted. 


No.  52. — The  interior  of  a  porch  enclosed  Ijy  canvas  curtains  fastened  at 
the  bottom  to  shade  rollers.  The  sides  of  the  curtains  are  buckled  to  the 
posts. 

f  1031 


FRESH  AIR 


No.  53. — The  interior  of  a  porch  showing  a  method  of  manipulating  can- 
vas curtains  by  ropes  and  pulleys. 


[104 


PROTECTING  AND  SCREENING  PORCHES 

Protection  for  Moderately  Cold  Weather 

If  a  porch  is  fairly  deep  and  sheltered  on  two  sides  by 
an  angle  of  the  house,  sufficient  protection  for  moderately 
cold  weather  can  usually  be  obtained  by  canvas  curtains. 
Where  the  porch  stands  out  from  the  house,  one  or  both 
sides  should  be  provided  with  sash  and  glass  and  the  front 
with  a  canvas  curtain. 

Canvas  Curtains 

These  curtains  are  usually  made  of  heavy  duck  and  can 
be  arranged  and  controlled  in  various  ways,  as  shown 
in  Illustrations  Nos.  51  to  56.  In  putting  them  up  it 
should  be  remembered  that  they  are  intended  to  keep  out 


No.  54. — IIow  to  protect  a  bed  during  stormy  weather  with  a  heavy  can- 
vas blanket  when  the  porch  has  no  adequate  protection. 
[105  1 


FRESH  AIR 


No.  55. — A  porch  covered  and  shielded  by  canvas  curtains  supported 
on  tubular  iron  rods.  These  are  raised  or  lowered  by  means  of  ropes  and 
pulleys. 


106] 


PROTECTING  AND  SCREENING  PORCHES 

strong  winds,  rain,  and  snow,  and  so  must  be  jBrmly  fixed 
when  in  place  for  protection.  A  simple  way  of  arranging 
them  is  to  bind  the  edges  of  the  canvas  after  cutting  it 
into  the  required  size  for  the  curtain,  then  tack  the  upper 
edge  of  the  curtain  to  the  inside  of  the  roof  plate,  and 
reinforce  the  tacks  by  a  piece  of  lath  or  narrow  strip 
of  board  nailed  over  the  canvas  and  row  of  tacks.  To  the 
bottom  of  the  curtain  should  be  attached  a  wooden  roller 
about  one  inch  in  diameter.  The  curtain  can  then  be 
rolled  up  out  of  the  way  by  ropes  run  through  pulleys 
attached  to  the  roof  plate.  Screw-eyes  should  be  inserted 
into  the  floor  below  the  roller  and  at  intervals  in  the  posts 
at  the  sides  of  the  curtain,  so  that  the  canvas  can  be  tied 
tightly  with  tapes  during  windy  weather.  Carriage  cur- 
tain tongues  and  buckles  or  buttons  and  eyelets  may  be 
used  instead  of  tape,  as  is  shown  in  Illustration  No.  52. 

Protection  for  Moderate  and  Warm  Weather 

For  moderate  and  warm  weather,  porch  protection  is 
needed  against  occasional  winds,  rain,  and  sunlight,  and 
to  prevent  the  porch  from  being  overlooked.  For  this 
purpose  light  duck  or  denim  curtains,  Venetian  blinds,  or 
Japanese  matting  curtains  are  generally  used.  Cloth 
curtains  of  various  textures  can  be  conveniently  manipu- 
lated if  hung  on  heavy  spring  shade  rollers.  The  rollers 
may  be  attached  to  either  the  top  or  bottom  of  the  open- 
ing which  is  to  be  protected.  When  rolled  from  the 
bottom,  the  curtain  is  drawn  up  by  a  cord  passed  through 
a  pulley  attached  to  the  roof  plate,  as  is  shown  in  Illus- 
8  f  107  1 


FRESH  AIR 


No.  56. — Protecting  a  sleeping  porch  with  canvas.  A  wooden  roller  Is 
tacked  to  the  bottom  of  the  curtain,  which  can  be  raised  by  cords  passing 
through  pulleys  attached  at  the  top. 

tration  No.  52.  This  is  a  very  convenient  arrangement, 
as  the  shade  can  then  be  drawn  up  in  a  position  that  will 
screen  the  sleeper  without  shutting  out  the  air,  and  in  the 

[108] 


PROTECTING  AND  SCREENING  PORCHES 

event  of  a  storm  at  night  or  to  shut  out  the  Hght  in  the 
morning  it  can  be  raised  to  its  full  height  from  the  bed. 

Venetian  Blinds  and  Japanese  Matting 

Venetian  blinds  are  made  of  wooden  slats  hung  on 
heavy  tapes  and  raised  or  lowered  by  operating  an  over- 
head roller  (see  Illustrations  Nos.  12,  48,  and  57).  They 
can  be  pulled  down  to  any  position  and  the  slats  arranged 
at  any  angle  desired.  These  blinds  and  Japanese  matting 
give  efficient  protection  and  are  very  convenient  for  the 
summer  months  and  for  tropical  countries.  The  Japanese 
matting  is  fixed  in  position  and  controlled  in  the  same 


No.  57. — Venetian  blinds  are  inexpensive  and  make  a  good 
shield  for  a  sleeping  porch  in  hot  weather.  {Courtesy  of  the 
J.  G.  Wilson  Mfg.  Co.) 

\  109  1 


FRESH  AIR 


No.  58. — ^Japanese  curtains  are  a  good  protection  for  a  sleeping  porch   in 
summer.    A  wooden  roller  should  be  attached  to  the  bottom. 


110] 


PROTECTING  AND  SCREENING  PORCHES 

manner  as  a  canvas  curtain,  with  a  wooden  roller  attached 
to  the  bottom,  as  shown  in  Illustration  No.  58. 

Cloth  Screens 

For  moderate  weather  protection  and  to  prevent  annoy- 
ance from  being  overlooked,  a  cloth  screen  attached  to  a 
wooden  frame  made  like  a  folding  Japanese  leaf  screen  is 
sometimes  used.  A  home-made  cloth  screen  which  can 
easily  be  made  at  a  small  expense  is  described  by  Mr.  A. 
C.  Clauson.  The  materials  required  are  nine  pieces  of 
spruce  slats  two  inches  wide  by  seven-eighths  of  an  inch 
thick,  a  few  ten-penny  nails,  some  half -inch  screws,  twelve 
small  shelf  brackets  three  by  four  inches  long,  six  two-inch 
hinges,  some  unbleached  muslin,  tacks,  and  oil  stain. 
The  spruce  slats  should  be  dressed  on  all  sides  and  used  to 
make  the  frame  for  the  three  leaves  of  the  screen,  each 
leaf  being  two  feet  wide  by  five  feet  six  inches  high.  The 
frame  is  screwed  together  and  held  rigid  by  a  bracket  in 
each  corner.  The  lower  bars  of  the  frame  should  be 
about  twelve  inches  above  the  floor  and  the  upper  bars  a 
few  inches  from  the  top  of  the  screen.  The  leaves  are 
hinged  together  and  covered  with  muslin.  Gate  hooks 
should  be  screwed  into  the  top  of  the  frame  and  screw- 
eyes  placed  in  different  places  at  the  top  of  the  porch  so 
that  the  screen  can  be  hung  up  in  any  desired  position. 

Protection  Against  Insects 

In  tropical  countries,  and  during  the  summer  months 
in  most  northern  latitudes,  protection  against  insects  is 

[nil 


FRESH  AIR 


No.  59. — A  simple  means  of  screening  a  bed  over  a  square  frame.  Better 
protection  can  be  obtained  if  the  netting  is  hung  on  the  inside  of  the  frame- 
work. 

[  112  1 


PROTECTING  AND  SCREENING  PORCHES 

necessary  for  the  comfort  and  health  of  those  who  Hve 
and  sleep  in  the  open  air.  In  screening  beds  and  rooms 
care  should  be  taken  to  select  perfect  netting,  as  gnats 
and  mosquitoes  are  often  very  persevering  in  their  search 
for  openings  through  which  to  reach  the  person  protected 
by  such  material. 

Cloth  Netting 

When  using  cloth  netting  for  a  canopy  over  a  bed  it 
should  be  made  long  enough  to  be  easily  tucked  under  the 
mattress  on  every  side,  and  hung  on  the  inside  of  the  poles 
of  the  frame  which  supports  it,  for  when  allowed  to  hang 
down  to  the  floor  or  when  hung  over  the  outside  of  poles, 
it  usually  falls  in  folds  through  which  insects  may  gain 
entrance.  Canopies  should  be  made  without  side  open- 
ings and  should  be  entered  by  slightly  raising  the  netting 
and  passing  through  underneath  so  as  to  exclude  mosqui- 
toes hovering  near  the  body. 

Insects  on  the  outside  of  a  netting  may  reach  the  body 
when  pressed  against  the  inside  of  the  screen.  It  is  there- 
fore a  good  plan  to  use  a  wide  bed  for  open-air  sleeping  in 
localities  where  disease  carrying  mosquitoes  abound;  or, 
when  screening  a  small  bed,  to  sew  a  soft  cloth  loosely 
around  the  netting  where  the  body  rests  against  it.  In 
order  to  obtain  the  best  service  in  screening  a  bed  with 
cloth  netting: 

1.  Choose  a  light  colored  netting,  preferably  white,  as 
it  is  very  difficult  on  colored  materials  to  detect  insects 
which  enter  the  screen. 

[113  1 


FRESH  AIR 


No.  60. — Screening  a  bed  with  mosquito  netting  and  open-mesh  cloth,  in  tropi- 
cal countries. 


2.  Use  a  large  mesh  netting  about  eighteen  threads  to 
an  inch,  as  it  will  exclude  troublesome  insects  except  sand 
flies,  and  a  closely  woven  material  shuts  out  the  air. 

3.  Use  a  coarsely  woven  cheesecloth  or  scrim  for  pro- 
tection against  sand  flies. 

[  114  1 


PROTECTING  AND  SCREENING  PORCHES 

4.  When  putting  up  the  canopy  stretch  it  tightly  in 
every  direction  so  as  to  allow  air  to  pass  freely;  a  loosely 
hung  net  excludes  the  air. 

5.  Do  not  make  a  circular  canopy;  a  netting  should 
have  square  corners  in  order  to  stretch  it. 

In  camps  and  when  a  quick  temporary  method  of  screen- 
ing a  bed  is  desired,  barrel  hoops  or  those  sold  as  toys  for 
children  to  roll  can  be  used  for  supporting  the  netting. 


No.  61. — A  .simple  way  to  screen  a  bed  by  using  a  barrel  hoop  or  a  green 
bough  for  support.  Thi.s  should  not  be  used  to  guard  against  disease-bearing 
insects,  as  it  does  not  give  adequate  protection. 

[115] 


FRESH  AIR 


No.  62. — A  simple  and  satisfactory  manner  of  screening  porches  of  country 
residences  with  wii'e  netting  against  insects. 


Cut  the  hoops  through  in  one  place  and  attach  the  ends,  as 
shown  in  Illustration  No.  61,  one  to  each  side  of  the  head 
and  foot  boards  of  the  bed.  Long,  slender  limbs  of  trees 
will  serve  the  same  purpose.  Over  this  support  the  net- 
ting can  be  thrown  and  tied  on  the  outside  of  both  the 
head  and  foot  boards.  Cotton  netting  is  strengthened 
and  given  fire  and  water  resisting  properties  by  painting 
it  with  a  solution  made  of  equal  parts  of  silicate  of  potas- 
sium and  water.  Several  coats  of  the  solution  should  be 
applied,  after  the  netting  has  been  stretched  on  a  frame, 
without  allowing  it  to  dry  between  the  applications. 

[116  1 


PROTECTING  AND  SCREENING  PORCHES 

Wire  Screens 

Wire  netting  is  much  more  durable  than  cloth  and  should 
be  used  in  screening  porches  and  open-air  rooms  in  locali- 
ties where  disease-bearing  mosquitoes  are  found.  In  order 
to  obtain  thorough  protection  from  this  species  of  in- 
sect it  is  often  necessary  to  build  a  complete  wire  gauze 
room  within  the  open-air  shelter.  A  frame  made  of  up- 
right wooden  supports  should  be  placed  in  the  four  corners, 
fixed  securely  in  place,  and  connected  by  cross-pieces,  and 


No.  63. — A  tent  screened  with  wire  netting  which  completely  lines  the  under 
side  of  the  canvas. 

[117  1 


FRESH  AIR 


No 


-Showing  a  method  of  screening  porches  with  wire  netting  in  tropi- 
cal countries. 


to  this  frame  wire  gauze  should  be  tacked,  making  a  com- 
plete inner  chamber.  Care  should  be  taken  to  make  the 
corners  tight  and  to  leave  no  apertures  on  the  line  where 
the  gauze  is  tacked  to  the  floor. 


118 


CHAPTER  VIII 
Tents  and  Tent  Houses 

TENTS  are  frequently  used  for  open-air  living  and 
sleeping  accommodations  and  are  found  to  be  fairly 
satisfactory  in  warm  dry  climates,  but  they  do  not  make 
a  suitable  permanent  shelter  for  this  purpose  in  northern 
countries.  They  are  not  particularly  comfortable,  but  are 
cheap,  easily  transported  and  erected,  and  therefore  con- 
venient for  making  temporary  quarters.  However,  they 
are  not  to  be  recommended  for  those  who  can  afford 
to  construct  open  buildings  with  more  durable  material. 
Ordinary  tents  hold  odors,  and  in  warm  weather  are  ex- 
tremely hot  and  uncomfortable  during  the  middle  of  the 
day.  Often  they  are  very  hard  to  ventilate,  for  a  strong 
draft  is  produced  when  the  flaps  are  open.  There  is  no 
truth  in  the  statement  that  they  can  be  ventilated  through 
the  meshes  of  the  cloth,  as  canvas  is  almost  impenetrable 
to  currents  of  air. 

Tents  on  City  Roofs 

Tents  have  been  erected  upon  the  roofs  of  city  buildings 
(see  Illustrations  Nos.  G5  to  68),..but  they  are  not  to  be 

f  119] 


FRESH  AIR 


No.  65. — ^A  tent  on  the  roof  of  the  rear  extension  of  a  city  dwelling,  raised 
over  a  rigid  and  well  anchored  frame.  The  lattice  work  base  protects  the 
interior  but  allows  fresh  air  to  enter.     {Courtesy  of  Dr.  W.  P.  Northrwp.) 


recommended  for  such  positions  unless  they  can  be  placed 
in  the  shelter  of  a  strong  wind-break.  When  erected  upon 
the  roofs  of  high  buildings,  they  should  be  protected  on  two 
sides  by  walls,  or  by  other  portions  of  the  structure  upon 
which  they  are  placed,  that  run  up  as  high  as  the  top  of  the 

f  1201 


TENTS  AND  TENT  HOUSES 


ridge-pole  of  the  tent,  and  they  should  be  raised  over  and 
attached  to  a  timber  frame  that  is  well  anchored. 

The  Cost  of  Tents 

A  small  tent  of   good  material  can  be   purchased  for 
about  fifteen  dollars,  and  a  strong  two  by  four  inch  timber 


No.  66. — An  ordinary  tent  pitched  on  the  roof  of  a  rear  extension,  and  held 
by  guy  ropes  attached  to  two  by  four  inch  timbers.  {Courtesy  of  Dr.  W.  P. 
Northrup.) 

[Ul] 


FRESH  AIR 


No.  67. — A  lean-to  tent  shelter  which  can  be  easily  arranged  on  the  roof  of  a 
city  dwelling.     {Courtesy  of  Mr.  F.  D.  Greene.) 


frame  can  be  made  for  eight  or  ten  dollars  additional  (see 
Illustration  No.  74).  Metal  frames  for  tents  can  be  ob- 
tained ready  to  be  bolted  together  at  a  cost  of  from  thirty 
to  fifty  dollars,  according  to  the  size. 

Many  modifications  of  the  ordinary  tent  have  been 
made  for  the  purpose  of  obtaining  a  well  ventilated  can- 
vas shelter.  The  special  tents  and  ventilating  devices 
described  and  illustrated  in  this  chapter  were  designed  to 
meet  the  need  for  a  cheap,  comfortable,  and  sanitary  tent. 

[1221 


TENTS  AND  TENT  HOUSES 


The  Fisher  Tent 

This  is  a  square  tent  twelve  feet  in  both  directions  and 
eight  feet  high  from  the  under  side  of  the  sill  to  the  top  of 
the  roof  plate  (see  Illustration  No.  69).  It  is  supported 
by  posts  at  the  four  corners,  and  on  each  side  between  the 
pillars,  instead  of  a  tent  wall  are  sliding  doors  of  canvas. 
Each  door  occupies  only  slightly  more  than  one-half  the 
space  and  may  be  moved  to  any  position  within  that  space, 
like  sliding  doors  in  front  of  pantry  shelves.  The  eight 
doors  on  the  four  sides  may  be  arranged  in  any  desired 
position  to  secure  ventilation  or  sunlight.  The  widest 
opening  of  the  tent  is  obtained  in  several  ways,  one  of 


No.  C8. — A  cheap  })iit  rigid  tont  house  on  the  gravel  roof  of  a  city  apartment 
building.     {Courtesy  oj  Dr.  Joseph  II.  Pratt.) 

9  f  123  1 


FRESH  AIR 


No.  69. — A  tent  with  all  four  sides  made  of  sliding  canvas  doors.     {Designed 
by  Dr.  Irving  Fisher.) 


which  is  by  thrusting  four  of  the  doors  against  one  post 
and  the  other  four  against  the  diagonally  opposite  post, 
leaving  the  other  two  corners  entirely^  open.  A  proper 
adjustment  of  the  doors  will  give  good  ventilation  and  at 
the  same  time  protection  from  the  wind.     The  roof  has  a 

[124  1 


TENTS  AND  TENT  HOUSES 


slight  slope  with  a  small  opening  in  the  centre,  covered 
with  a  rain  umbrella  which  may  be  brought  down  snugly 
when  the  interior  is  to  be  heated. 

This  tent  is  arranged  so  that  it  can  be  readily  taken 
apart  and  set  up  with  little  trouble.  The  following  specifi- 
cations are  given  in  order  that  a  fairly  substantial  structure 
may  be  erected  if  it  is  to  be  located  in  a  permanent  position. 

The  Floor. — The  sills  are  of  three  by  four  inch  timber, 
each  piece  cut  seven  and  one-half  inches  shorter  than  twelve 
feet,  to  give  room  for  the  posts  at  each  corner.  Pieces 
of  two  by  four  inch  timber  are  dove-tailed  across  the 
corners  and  held  in  place  with  screws  so  that  the  posts  may 
be  bolted  to  them.  These  can  be  easily  removed  when  the 
tent  is  taken  apart.  Two  beams  of  two  by  four  inch  timber 
placed  together  support  the  floor  under  the  centre  of  the 
tent  and  the  sills  are  cut  between  the  beams  so  that  the 
framework  of  the  floor  is  in  two  halves.  The  floor  joists 
are  of  two  by  four  inch  timber  placed  about  two  feet  apart 
between  the  beams  and  sills.  When  the  tent  is  set  up,  the 
two  centre  beams  are  bolted  together,  in  order  to  hold  the 
floor  in  one  piece.  The  flooring  is  of  one  by  six  inch  pine 
boards,  planed  and  matched.  They  are  cut  off  in  line  with 
the  inside  of  the  posts  and  the  ends  carried  by  a  one  and 
one-half  by  two  inch  timber  nailed  on  the  inside  of  the  sill. 
One  or  two  boards  in  the  middle  of  the  floor  are  held  in 
place  })y  screws  so  that  they  can  be  easily  raised  to  remove 
the  bolts  holding  the  centre  beams  together. 

The  Frame. — The  posts  are  of  four  by  four  incli  timber, 
seven  feet  eleven  inches  long,  cut  out  one-fourth  inch  at  the 

f  125  1 


FRESH  AIR 


bottom,  so  that  they  have  a  bearing  on  the  sill.  The  top 
of  the  posts  are  cut  in  a  similar  manner  to  hold  the  plates. 
These  are  of  three  by  four  inch  timber  halved  at  the 
corners,  and  held  together  by  a  piece  of  timber  dove-tailed 
and  bolted  through  the  post  as  in  the  sills.  The  frame  is 
held  rigid  by  an  angle  iron  placed  at  the  top  and  bottom 
of  each  corner.  Both  arms  of  these  braces  are  eighteen 
inches  long,  two  inches  wide,  and  three-eighths  of  an  inch 
thick,  and  they  are  placed  on  the  outside  of  the  plate  or 
sill  and  held  with  screws. 

The  Roof. — The  roof  is  made  in  four  sections,  held  in 
place  at  the  corners  by  hip  rafters  bolted  together,  and  the 
eaves  project  twelve  inches  beyond  the  side  of  the  tent. 
A  small  frame  of  two  by  five  inch  timber  mitred  together 
at  the  corners  surrounds  an  opening  twelve  inches  square 
in  the  centre  of  the  roof.  The  hip  rafters  are  of  one  and 
one-half  by  four  inch  timber  and  the  inner  rafters  are  of 
two  by  three  inch  timber.  The  sheathing  is  of  one  by 
six  inch  pine  boards  planed,  matched,  and  covered  with 
Ruberoid  roofing  paper  or  shingles.  The  rafters  should 
be  fastened  to  the  plate  and  the  centre  frame  so  that  each 
side  of  the  roof  is  a  separate  section,  and  after  they  are  in 
place  the  hip  rafters  are  bolted  together  and  the  frame 
around  the  opening  fastened  at  each  corner  with  an  angle 
iron.  The  hood  over  the  opening  projects  twelve  inches 
beyond  the  frame,  is  raised  four  inches  above  the  roof,  and 
has  the  same  pitch.  On  the  under  side  hangs  a  door  which 
may  be  opened  or  closed  by  a  cord  run  through  a  pulley. 

The  Sides. — On  each  side  of  the  tent  are  two  sliding 

[1261 


TENTS  AND  TENT  HOUSES 


door  frames  of  one  by  three  inch  spruce,  timber  covered 
on  both  sides  with  eight-ounce  canvas  held  to  the  frames 
by  galvanized  iron  tacks.  Ball-bearing  sheaves  are  in- 
serted in  the  bottom  of  the  doors  and  run  on  a  track 
fastened  to  the  sill. 


The  Lapham  Lean-to  Tent 

This  tent  is  twelve  feet  wide  by  fourteen  feet  deep,  and 
has  a  canvas  roof  and  sides  with  a  glass  front  (see  Illus- 


I3KamscoQng. 


No.  70. — The  Lapham  tent  con.si.sts  of  a  lean-to  frame,  a  canvas 
cover,  and  a  glass  front,  and  can  be  used  as  a  sun  parlor. 

[1271 


FRESH  AIR 


No.  71. — The  Gardner  tent  is  a  modification  of  .the  Indian  tepee,  and  has  an 
open  space  at  the  bottom  of  the  sides  and  a  hole  at  the  top  for  ventilation. 


128 


TENTS  AND  TENT  HOUSES 


tration  No.  70).  It  is  intended  for  use  as  a  sun  parlor 
during  the  winter  months,  and  should  be  placed  so  that 
the  front  has  a  southern  exposure.  The  floor  rests  on 
piers  one  foot  above  the  ground,  and  is  made  of  one  inch 
floor  boards  laid  double,  with  a  two  inch  air  space  between 
the  layers.  There  is  a  wooden  base  around  the  walls  five 
feet  high,  and  with  the  exception  of  this  support  and  a 
portion  of  the  door,  the  entire  front  is  made  of  glass  and 
sash.  The  roof  is  of  canvas  reinforced  by  a  fly  held  in 
place  by  guy  ropes,  and  has  a  steep  fall  from  a  twelve  foot 
height  in  front  to  five  feet  in  the  rear  in  order  to  prevent 
leakage  over  the  flat  surface. 

The  Gardner  Tent 

This  tent  is  a  modification  of  the  Indian  tepee,  conical 
in  shape,  with  a  hole  at  the  top  and  an  open  space  at  the 
bottom  between  the  floor  and  the  sides  (see  Illustrations 
Nos.  71  and  72).  The  arrangement  of  the  openings  is 
intended  to  act  like  a  fireplace  and  produce  a  constant  up- 
ward current  of  air  through  the  interior.  The  floor  is  in 
six  sections  and  can  be  bolted  together.  It  is  made  of  one 
by  four  inch  tongued  and  grooved  boards,  supported  eight 
inches  above  the  ground  on  two  by  four  inch  joists. 
Around  the  edge  of  the  floor  is  a  wainscoting  of  narrow 
floor  boards  four  feet  high.  There  is  no  centre  pole,  as  the 
tent  is  supported  by  an  eight-sided  wooden  frame.  The 
roof  and  sides  are  of  twelve-ounce  khaki  colored  duck,  and 
the  point  where  the  slope  toward  the  centre  begins  is  six 
feet  above  the  floor.     The  lower  edge  of  the  canvas  walls 

[  129  1 


FRESH  AIR 


PLAN  AND 


S^^2^bs.  Corner 
Floor  3uilt  in  ,,:^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^v  Four  Sections 


Air  Inlets 
Marked  A 


No.  72. — Drawings  of  the  Gardner  tent,  showing 
the  method  of  building  the  floor  and  arrangement 
for  ventilation. 

are  fastened  several  inches  below  the  jQoor  and  one  inch 
out  from  the  wainscoting  on  all  sides.  This  leaves  an 
aperture  through  which  a  gradual  inflow  of  air  is  obtained 

[1301 


TENTS  AND  TENT  HOUSES 


without  causing  a  draft.  The  opening  in  the  centre  of  the 
roof  is  one  foot  in  diameter  and  is  covered  with  a  zinc  cap 
which  can  be  raised  or  lowered  by  ropes  running  through 
pulleys. 

The  Ulrich  Tent 

The  Ulrich  tent  (see  Illustration  No.  73)  was  designed 
as  a  shelter  for  one  person,  and  is  ten  feet  wide  by  twelve 
feet  deep.     The  floor  is  of  ordinary  planed  boards,  laid 


No.  73. — These  plans  show  an  arrangement  for  ventilating  an  ordinary 
{Courtesy  of  Dr.  11.  Ulrich.) 
f  1311 


tent. 


FRESH  AIR 


No.  74. — An  ordinary  tent  with  a  ventilator  above  the  door,  pitched  over  a 
well  built  board  floor  and  rigid  frame.  {Courtesy  of  the  Department  of  Health, 
New  York  City.) 


over  two  by  four  inch  joists  raised  one  foot  above  the 
ground.  A  base  of  one  inch  boards  twelve  inches  high  is 
built  around  the  edge  of  and  at  right  angles  to  the  floor, 
with  a  two  inch  open  space  intended  as  an  intake  for 
fresh  air  between  it  and  the  outer  ends  of  the  floor  boards. 
The  base  or  wainscoting  is  rigidly  fastened  in  position,  and 
extends  two  inches  below  the  under  surface  of  the  floor 
in  order  to  produce  a  wind-break  and  prevent  direct  drafts. 
The  tent  is  raised  in  the  ordinary  way  over  the  floor,  and 

[132] 


TENTS  AND  TENT  HOUSES 


the  canvas  tent  walls  are  attached  low  down  on  the  outside 
of  the  upright  base.  Any  cheap  tent  can  be  arranged  in 
this  manner. 

The  Tucker  Tent 

This  tent  is  made  in  two  sizes,  eight  feet  wide  by  ten 
feet  long,  and  twelve  feet  wide  by  fourteen  feet  long  (see 
Illustrations  Nos.  75  and  76).  It  consists  of  a  wooden 
floor,  a  high  wooden  base,  and  canvas  sides,  roof,  and  fly  of 


No.  75. — The  Tucker  tent  has  a  high  wooden  base  around  the  sides  and  is 

well  ventilated. 

f  133  I 


FRESH  AIR 


Air  Inlet  Near  Floor.  Roop  Ventilators. 

No.  76. — Drawings  describing  the  manner  of  ventilating  the  Tucker  tent. 

twelve-ounce  army  duck.  The  fly  extends  one  foot  over 
the  edge,  and  ten  inches  above  and  parallel  to  the  roof  of 
the  tent,  allowing  a  free  circulation  of  air  between  the 
two  layers.  The  canvas  above  the  base  in  the  front  is 
attached  to  awning  frames  so  that  it  may  be  raised  at 
various  angles  or  removed  entirely  for  the  free  entrance  of 
sunlight.  The  tent  is  ventilated  by  an  inlet  for  air  in  the 
wainscoting  near  the  floor,  which  may  be  opened  or  closed, 
and  a  ventilator  in  the  centre  of  the  roof. 

[1341 


TENTS  AND  TENT  HOUSES 


TENT  HOUSES 

Tent  houses  are  safer  and  more  convenient  than  tents, 
as  they  are  usually  made  with  walls  sufficiently  high  to 
allow  space  for  standing  upright  at  any  point  in  the  struc- 
ture, and  are  laid  over  frames  of  either  timbers  or  metal 
constructed  rigidly  enough  to  support  the  canvas  against 
heavy  wind  strains  (see  Illustration  No.  82). 

The  Biggs  Tent  House 

This  shelter  may  be  used  instead  of  a  tent  at  a  perma- 
nent camp,  and  can  be  made  comfortable  for  eight  or  nine 
months  of  the  year.  It  consists  of  a  wooden  floor,  a  base 
supporting  window  frames,  fitted  with  glass  and  sash  on 
all  sides  except  the  rear,  and  a  double  canvas  roof  (see 
Illustrations  Nos.  77  and  78).  The  main  room  is  fourteen 
feet  wide  by  sixteen  feet  deep  and  rests  on  eight  stone  piers. 
The  sills  are  six  by  eight  inch  timbers  and  the  floor  beams 
two  by  six  inch  pieces  placed  sixteen  inches  from  centre 
to  centre,  reinforced  by  a  girder  placed  under  the  centre  of 
the  house  lengthwise.  The  outside  of  the  sills  is  cased, 
and  the  floor  laid  with  seven-eighths  inch  boards  three 
inches  wide.  The  main  posts  are  four  by  four  inch  timbers 
set  on  the  top  of  the  floor,  and  the  filling  studs  are  two  by 
four  inch  timbers  set'flat,  twenty  inches  apart.  The  main 
plates  and  cross  beams  are  four  by  six  inch,  the  ridge-pole 
two  by  twelve  inch,  and  the  rafters  are  two  by  six  inch 
timbers.  The  horizontal  pieces  of  the  outhangers  are 
four  by  four  inches,  and  the  brace  and  tie  members  two  by 

f  135  1 


FRESH  AIR 


No.  77. — A  good  shelter  for  a  permanent  camp  which  can  be  made 
comfortable  during  eight  or  nine  months  of  the  year.  {Designed  by  Dr. 
Hermann  M.  Biggs.) 


four  inches,  all  strongly  framed  together.  The  wmdow 
and  door  frames  are  simple  jambs  and  casings,  nailed 
direct  to  the  studs.  The  lower  sides  are  enclosed  with 
novelty  siding  and  the  roof  and  fly  are  of  heavy  canvas. 

[136] 


TENTS  AND  TENT  HOUSES 


The  entire  framework  is  left  rough  as  it  comes  from  the 
saw,  and  the  whole  stained  a  moss  green.  In  the  rear  of 
the  tent  house  is  a  small  dressing  room,  fourteen  feet  wide 
by  seven  feet  deep,  built  with  a  frame  of  two  by  four 
timbers  tightly  boarded  and  covered  with  tar  paper. 

The  Kenyon  Tent  House 

This  tent  house  can  be  purchased  ready  for  use  in 
various  sizes,  and  is  made  of  heavy  brown  duck  supported 


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No.  78. — Drawings  of  the  Biggs  tent 
house,  giving  some  details  of  its  con- 
struction. 

[137] 


FRESH  AIR 


No.  79. — The  Kenyon  tent  house  is  made  of  a  heavy  brown  duck  supported 
by  a  take-down  sectional  wooden  frame. 


on  a  wooden  frame  of  Georgia  pine  (see  Illustration  No. 
79).  The  frame  is  made  in  take-down  sections,  with  a 
special  joint  so  that  the  house  can  be  put  together  without 
the  use  of  nails  or  screws.  The  ceilings  are  of  brown 
burlap,  with  an  air  space  between  them  and  the  canvas 
roof.  The  floor  is  made  in  sections  of  light  weight  pine 
boards,  two  and  one-half  inches  wide,  smoothed  and  var- 
nished. The  sides  are  lined  with  canvas,  and  there  is  a 
two  inch  air  space  between  the  layers.     The  ventilation 

[  138  1 


TENTS  AND  TENT  HOUSES 


is  good,  and  the  doors  and  windows  are  large  and  pro- 
tected by  screens. 

The  Metal  Screen  Tent  House 

This  shelter  consists  of  a  steel  frame,  with  the  space  be- 
tween the  framework  filled  with  heavy  wire  insect  screen- 
ing, and  an  outer  covering  of  extra  heavy  canvas  (see 
Illustrations  Nos.  80,  81,  82).  The  canvas  walls  are  in 
sections,  and  can  be  removed  from  the  sides  when  desired, 
in  order  that  the  interior  which  is  thoroughly  protected 


No.  80. — The  Metal   Strcen   tent  house  with  the  canvas  sides  in  position 
is  well  protected  from  the  weather. 
10  f  139  1 


FRESH  AIR 


No.  81. — The  Metal  Screen  tent  house  with  the  canvas  sides  removed  is  a 
screened  shelter  open  to  the  air  on  every  side. 


against  insects  may  be  open  to  the  air.  Each  piece  of  the 
frame  is  numbered,  and  can  be  easily  placed  in  position  or 
taken  down  and  folded  for  transportation.  The  frames 
are  well  made  and  are  said  to  last  for  years  if  carefully 
handled.  The  floor  is  of  one-inch  matched  boards,  laid 
four  inches  above  the  ground  on  two  by  four  inch  timbers. 
The  roof  is  of  double  thickness,  and  the  upper  layer  or  fly 
is  raised  eighteen  inches  by  a  projection  from  the  iron 
framework  of  the  house. 

[1401 


TENTS  AND  TENT  HOUSES 


The  U.  S.  M.  H.  Tent  House 

This  building  is  twelve  by  fourteen  feet  inside  measure- 
ments and  will  accommodate  two  persons  (see  Illustrations 
Nos.  83  and  84).  It  may  be  readily  screened  for  the 
summer  months  and  opened  on  all  four  sides,  allowing  free 
ventilation  without  disagreeable  drafts.  The  roof,  floor, 
and  base  are  of  wood  and  the  remaining  portions  of  the 
wall  are  canvas  stretched  on  frames.  The  plates,  rafters, 
ridge-pole,  and  fly  poles  have  rounded  edges.  The  sides 
are  boarded  with  six  inch  matched  boards  and  all  upright 
pieces  are  nailed  to  joists.  The  distance  between  the 
cap  and  the  plate  is  regulated  by  the  height  of  the  side 


No.  82. — A  frame  of  angle  iron  supports  the  Metal  Screen  tent  house.     Each 

.section  is  numbered,  bolted  together,  and  filled  with  wire  netting. 

[  141  ] 


FRESH  AIR 


No.  83. — A  cheap,  substantial  shelter  for  the  summer  months  which  can  be 
opened  and  screened  on  all  sides,  in  use  at  the  U.  S.  Marine  Hospital. 


wall  of  the  house  and  should  be  as  great  as  practicable. 
The  door  can  be  battened  or  made  of  canvas,  either  one- 
half  the  length  or  the  full  height  as  desired. 

A  list  of  the  material  used  in  the  construction  is  given 
below,  and  will  cost  about  one  hundred  dollars.     This, 

[1421 


TENTS  AND  TENT  HOUSES 

together  with  the  drawing  and  photograph,  should  make 
the  construction  a  simple  matter  for  any  carpenter. 

Lumber: 

3  pieces  for  Sills 4x    4  inches  14  feet  long 

7      "        "   Joists 2x6       "       12    "       " 

2      "        "    Centre  Poles 2x4       "       12    "       " 

1      "        "   Ridge-pole 2x4      "      10    " 


No.  84. — A  drawing  of  the  U.  S.  Marine  Hospital  tent  house  showing  some 

details  of  construction. 

f  143  1 


FRESH  AIR 


Lumber: 

6  pieces  for  Rafters 2  x 

1  "        "  Fly  Pole 2x 

2  "        "  Plates 2x 

2      "        "  Plates 2x 

2      "        "  Caps 2x 

2      "        "  Caps 2x 

4      "        "  Uprights 2  x 

1       "        "  Uprights 2x 

8      "        "  Stanchions 2  x 

4      "       "  Guy  Rails 2x 

4      "        "  Braces 2x 

"  Shelves 1x12 

"  Shelves 1x12 

"  Braces .  .2  x 

"  Steps 2x 

"        "  Flooring 1  x 

"        "  Siding 1  X 

"        "■  Siding 1  X 

"        "  Frames 1  x 


1 

2 

2 

3 
30 
20 
20 

7 

One  door 
One  sash 
Canvas. 


4  inches  10  feet  Ion 

4   ' 

'   10  ' 

4   ' 

'   14  ' 

4   ' 

'   12  ' 

4   ' 

'   14  ' 

4   ' 

'   12  ' 

4   ' 

'   16  ' 

4   ' 

8  ' 

4   ' 

'   10  ' 

4   ' 

'   16  ' 

4   ' 

2   ' 

'   12  ' 
'   12  ' 

2   ' 

'   14  ' 

4   ' 

8  ' 

4   ' 

8  ' 

6   ' 

'   14  ' 

6   ' 

'   14  ' 

6   ' 

'   12  ' 

2   ' 

'   14  ' 

Hardware: 
Thirty-six  one-inch  number  seven  screws 
Two  hooks  and  eyes 
One  window  catch 
Fifteen  pounds  eight-penny  nails 
Twelve  pounds  twenty-penny  nails 
One  eight-inch  ventilator 
One  roll  of  patent  roofing  paper 


144] 


CHAPTER  IX 

Open-air  Bungalows  and  Cottages 

FOR  many  reasons  it  is  often  necessary  to  build  a 
small  cottage  or  bungalow  in  order  that  one  may 
have  an  open  shelter  for  fresh-air  life.  The  site  selected 
may  be  far  from  other  dwellings  in  the  woods,  mountains, 
or  the  open  country,  or  it  may  be  close  beside  one's  per- 
manent home  in  a  village,  town,  or  city.  Buildings  of  this 
kind  can  be  constructed  of  various  materials,  such  as 
stone,  concrete,  hollow  tile,  logs,  or  the  ordinary  stud 
frame  covered  with  rough  boards,  slabs,  finished  lumber, 
or  shingles.  The  floor  plan  for  an  open  building  depends 
largely  upon  the  number  of  persons  it  is  to  accommodate, 
the  locality  in  which  it  is  to  be  placed,  and  whether  it  is 
to  be  used  during  the  entire  year  or  only  in  moderate 
weather.  When  isolated  it  should  be  arranged  to  include 
a  kitchen  and  dining  room,  but  when  built  as  an  addition 
to  the  home  it  is  usually  planned  to  have  one  or  two  open 
sleeping  and  living  rooms  with  enclosed  dressing  rooms, 
toilets,  baths,  and  closets. 

Selecting  a  Healthful  Site 

As  these  structures  are  usually  one  story  high,  with  the 
floor  close  to  the  ground.    Before  deciding  upon  a  site  it  is 

I  145  1 


FRESH  AIR 


advisable  to  make  a  careful  examination  of  the  soil,  in 
order  to  determine  whether  the  ground  upon  which  the 
open  building  is  to  be  placed  holds  dampness  for  an  ab- 
normal length  of  time  after  wet  weather.  This  can  gener- 
ally be  ascertained  by  carefully  noting  whether  water 
stands  in  the  hollows  on  the  land  after  rain  or  if  the  soil  of 
the  site  is  moist  when  nearby  land  is  dry.  Generally  soils 
containing  a  fair  amount  of  sand  or  gravel  make  healthful 
sites,  for  water  drains  rapidly  through  them  and  there  is 
practically  no  danger  from  long  continued  dampness. 
Land  with  a  clay  soil  should  not  be  selected  for  a  site  if  it 
can  be  avoided,  as  it  does  not  drain  easily  and  often  holds 
a  large  amount  of  moisture  after  continued  wet  weather. 
A  site  on  filled  or  "made  land "  may  be  an  unhealthy  situa- 
tion and  should  not  be  chosen  for  a  small  fresh-air  building 
unless  carefully  examined.  Air  is  forced  a  certain  distance 
into  the  ground  and  returns  through  variations  in  the 
atmospheric  pressure,  and  when  the  soil  contains  a  large 
amount  of  decomposing  organic  matter,  the  air  which  has 
permeated  through  it,  may  be  mixed  with  unwholesome 
gases.  Depressions  and  hollows  on  vacant  land  are  often 
used  as  dumps  for  garbage,  dead  animals,  and  other  waste 
material.  This  is  covered  when  the  land  is  graded  and 
filled,  and  the  air  from  such  soil  may  be  very  unpleasant. 
Often  in  long  settled  and  thickly  inhabited  towns  the 
ground  about  many  of  the  houses  covers  a  number  of  old 
drains  full  of  accumulated  filth  or  is  contaminated  by  re- 
fuse from  cesspools,  barnyards,  or  other  unsanitary  condi- 
tions.    For  these  reasons  care  must  be  taken  to  obtain 

[  146  1 


OPEN-AIR  BUNGALOWS  AND  COTTAGES 

some  information  in  regard  to  the  cleanliness  of  the  soil 
before  building  an  open-air  dwelling  in  such  localities. 

In  large  cities  the  districts  covered  by  private  houses 
usually  have  a  space  for  kitchen  yards  and  gardens  in  the 
centre  of  each  block.  These  yards  offer  good  sites  for 
small  open-air  bungalows  and  tents  if  the  soil  is  clean,  for 
they  are  usually  well  protected  on  all  sides  from  high  winds. 
In  small  cities  where  individual  residences  are  placed 
in  the  centre  of  two  or  more  building  lots,  fresh-air  build- 
ings can  frequently  be  erected  on  a  front  or  rear  lawn  and 
under  shade  trees. 

Construction  of  Bungalows  and  Cottages 

Generally  simple  frame  buildings  of  a  fairly  permanent 
character  are  the  best  class  of  structures  to  erect  for  open- 
air  shelters.  The  following  suggestions  in  regard  to  their 
construction  are  given  so  that  those  desiring  to  build  them 
may  have  a  general  idea  of  the  material  that  will  be  needed, 
and  can  more  easily  obtain  from  a  carpenter  or  builder  an 
estimate  of  the  cost  of  construction. 

The  Foundation 

Buildings  of  heavy  material  should  have  foundations  of 
stone  or  concrete,  constructed  in  the  usual  way,  and 
carried  down  to  a  solid  footing  below  the  frost  line.  Care 
must  be  taken  to  leave  openings  about  the  size  of  cellar 
windows  in  the  walls  on  opposite  sides  of  the  building  so 
that  there  may  be  good  cross  ventilation  of  the  space  be- 
tween the  floor  and  the  ground,  and  these  openings  should 

[147  1 


FRESH  AIR 


be  screened  to  prevent  animals  from  getting  in  under  the 
floor. 

Piers  are  cheaper  and  a  more  satisfactory  foundation 
for  wooden  structures.  They  can  be  built  of  concrete, 
br^ck  or  stone,  although  bricks  should  not  be  used  except 
when  stone  or  concrete  cannot  be  obtained  easily,  as  they 
sometimes  crumble  when  placed  in  the  earth.  Foundation 
piers  are  likely  to  settle  and  for  this  reason  should  rest 
upon  undisturbed  soil.  Where  the  bottom  of  the  excava- 
tion for  the  pier  reaches  rock  or  a  hard  strata  of  earth,  piers 
may  be  raised  directly  upon  it,  but  if  the  ground  is  soft  it  is 
wise  to  use  a  footing  of  coarse  concrete  or  a  few  large  stones 
at  the  bottom  as  a  precaution  against  settling.  Piers  should 
be  made  eighteen  inches  or  two  feet  square  and  placed  at 
the  corners  of  the  building  and  in  such  other  positions  as 
will  prevent  the  necessity  for  a  long  span  of  the  sills  or 
other  timbers  upon  which  the  structure  rests.  When  it  is 
desirable  to  construct  the  building  as  economically  as 
possible,  posts  may  be  used  instead  of  piers  for  the  founda- 
tion. They  should  be  six  inches  in  diameter,  set  well  into 
the  ground,  and  rest  on  a  large  flat  stone  for  a  footing.  If 
they  can  be  procured,  locust  or  cedar  wood  posts  should  be 
used  as  they  are  excellent  material  for  this  purpose  and 
will  last  for  years.  The  life  of  all  posts  can  be  prolonged 
by  coating  them  with  a  preparation  of  tar  or  creosote. 

In  building  the  foundation  it  is  well  to  remember  that 
the  floor  joists  must  be  kept  from  one  to  two  feet  from  the 
ground  to  prevent  their  becoming  damp,  but  the  building 
should  not  be  raised  higher  than  is  necessary  to  obtain  a 

[1481 


OPEN-AIR  BUNGALOWS  AND  COTTAGES 

well  ventilated  air  space  under  the  floor,  as  the  height 
from  the  ground  detracts  from  the  appearance  of  the 
structure.  Buildings  generally  have  an  unsightly  ap- 
pearance when  resting  upon  piers  unless  the  openings  be- 


No.  85. — An  open  bungalow  containing  a  small  sleeping  apartment  and  a  large 
sitting   room.     {Courtesy  of  "Country  Life  in   America.") 

tween  the  piers  are  filled  in  as  is  shown  in  Illustration  No. 
91.  This  can  be  done  with  lattice  work  built  of  one  by 
three  inch  boards  for  the  frame  and  ordinary  lath  for  the 
cros.spieces. 

[149  1 


FRESH  AIR 


The  Walls 

The  simplest  and  cheapest  covering  in  most  localities 
for  the  exterior  of  the  walls  is  rough  hemlock  or  spruce 
boards,  nailed  to  ordinary  studding  with  the  joints  covered 
by  narrow  battens  on  the  outside.  Walls  built  in  this 
way  will  be  more  durable  if  the  boards  are  put  on  ver- 
tically and  nailed  to  the  sill  and  plate  as  shown  in  Illus- 


No.  86. — An  open  cottage  showing  a  cheap  method  of  finishing  the  interior. 


tration  No.  85.  They  may  be  left  unplaned,  as  rough 
boards  make  an  artistic  exterior  and  take  stain  much 
better  than  do  those  with  a  smooth  surface.  The  battens 
should  be  one-half  inch  thick  by  three  inches  wide  and 
nailed  to  only  one  of  the  two  boards  with  which  they  come 
in  contact  when  placed  over  the  joints,  as  they  are  likely 

[1501 


OPEN-AIR  BUNGALOWS  AND  COTTAGES 


to  split  through  the  shrinkage  of  the  wide  boards  if  nailed 
on  both  sides.  Battens  are  not  necessary  if  the  wa'ls  are 
made  by  laying  the  boards  horizontally,  but  if  this  is 
done,  the  lowest  board  should  be  nailed  flat  against  the 
stud  and  sill  and  the  second  and  succeeding  ones  allowed 
to  overlap  each  other  an  inch  or  two  in  the  same  way  that 
clapboards  are  laid.  Walls  finished  in  this  manner  should 
have  a  post  set  at  each  corner  that  will  project  far  enough 
to  cover  the  edge  of  the  boards.  Walls  may  also  be  cov- 
ered with  novelty  siding,  clapboards  or  shingles,  as  these 
make  a  tight  wall  and  do  not  need  repairs  as  frequently 
as  the  rougher  materials. 

The  Interior 

After  deciding  upon  the  material  to  cover  the  exterior 
of  the  frame,  the  manner  of  finishing  the  interior  of  the 
walls  should  be  considered.  There  are  four  different 
methods  which  may  be  followed  and  the  one  chosen  should 
depend  somewhat  upon  whether  the  building  is  to  be  used 
in  very  cold  weather  and  heated  at  times,  or  is  for  use  as 
an  open  shelter  only.  Open  rooms  for  use  in  moderate 
weather  can  be  finished  in  a  very  cozy  manner  by  leaving 
the  studding  exposed,  as  shown  in  Illustration  No.  86, 
and  staining  the  entire  inside  of  the  outside  wall  covering. 
The  rooms  can  also  l)e  given  an  artistic  touch  by  tacking 
one  of  the  various  colored  burlap  cloths  over  the  studding. 

When  the  studs  are  left  exposed  they  should  be  carefully 
spaced  so  that  the  distance  between  each  timber  of  the 
frame  and  the  corners  will  be  equal.     The  interior  appear- 

I  151  1 


FRESH  AIR 


No.  87. — A  frame  cottage  covered  withi  roofing  paper  and  protected  on 
all  sides  by  canvas  curtains. 


ance  will  be  improved  when  it  is  finished  in  this  manner  if 
timbers  are  carried  entirely  around  the  room  on  the  same 
level  and  continuous  with  the  sills  that  support  the  window 
frames  and  the  pieces  above  the  top  of  the  frames.  The 
exposed  studding  should  not  be  planed,  for  when  in  the 
rough  it  will  harmonize  better  with  the  inner  surface  of  the 
outside  sheathing  and,  if  stained,  all  the  lumber  will  take 

M52  1 


OPEN-AIR  BUNGALOWS  AND  COTTAGES 

the  stain  in  the  same  manner.  Should  the  building  be  for 
use  in  a  cold  climate,  at  least  a  portion  of  it  must  be  heated, 
and  it  is  then  desirable  that  the  walls  be  made  tight  by 
sealing  the  interior  with  narrow  selected  boards  nailed  to 
the  studs,  or  by  using  one  of  the  patent  interior  linings 
such  as  Beaver  Board.  If  necessary,  the  walls  can  be  still 
further  reinforced  to  prevent  the  loss  of  heat  by  placing 
building  paper  under  the  sealing  material,  or  by  filling  in 
the  space  between  the  studs  with  some  non-conducting 
substance  such  as  mineral  wool. 

The  Roof 

Open-air  frame  buildings  are  generally  roofed  with 
shingles  or  one  of  the  patent  roofing  papers  laid  in  sheets 
as  shown  in  Illustration  No.  87.  Where  these  buildings 
are  constructed  of  brick,  stone,  stucco,  or  cement,  one 
of  the  more  permanent  roofing  materials  such  as  slate,  tile, 
tin  or  asbestos  shingles  should  be  used.  In  building  an 
ordinary  shingle  roof  the  rafters  should  be  covered  with 
sheathing  boards  and  a  layer  of  tar  paper  secured  by  lath 
strips  laid  between  the  boards  and  shingles.  Shingles  are 
apt  to  curl  from  exposure  to  the  weather  and  should  be 
protected  by  a  coating  of  some  preservative.  To  get  the 
best  results  this  must  be  done  by  dipping  them  in  the 
solution  and  laying  them  out  to  dry  before  they  are  laid. 

It  is  often  wise  to  plan  for  a  rather  high  peak  or  hip-roof 
over  these  buildings,  as  is  shown  in  Illustrations  Nos.  88 
and  89,  in  order  to  get  as  large  an  air  space  above  the 
rooms  as  possible,  for  this  will  help  in  keeping  the  interior 

[  153  1 


FRESH  AIR 


No.  88. — A  cheap  cottage  with  an  enclosed  apartment  for  domestic  pm-poses, 
and  open  sitting  and  sleeping  rooms. 

cool  in  hot  weather.  If  the  inside  of  the  house  is  finished 
with  the  studding  left  exposed,  the  under  side  of  the  roof 
may  be  treated  in  the  same  manner  or  sealed  with  rough 
boards  and  the  cracks  covered  with  battens. 


The  Floors 

The  flooring  for  buildings  of  this  type  should  depend 
largely  upon  the  class  of  material  to  be  found  in  local 
markets.     A  good  durable  board  floor  is  needed  and  it  is 

[  154  1 


OPEN-AIR  BUNGALOWS  AND  COTTAGES 


No.  89. — A  well    constructed   cottage  of   the  summer-house  type,  divided 
into  a  bedroom,  bathroom,  and  clothes  closets. 


11 


155] 


FRESH  AIR 


advisable  to  have  it  laid  double  throughout.  When 
building  in  northern  climates  for  use  during  the  entire 
year,  it  should  be  insulated  with  building  paper  between 
the  layers.  The  under  flooring  should  be  of  matched 
boards  and  the  upper  layer  of  the  best  material  the  builder 
can  afford.  If  economy  is  not  necessary,  a  maple  floor 
will  be  the  most  satisfactory.  In  locations  where  it  is 
hard  to  obtain  good  flooring  material,  ordinary  boards  can 
be  used  and  covered  with  linoleum.  .  There  should  be  a 
thick  padding  of  newspaper  placed  over  the  boards  before 
the  linoleum  is  laid. 


No.  90. — A  cheap  cottage  of  the  summer-house  type,  with  a  sleeping  room 

which  can  be  opened  on  all  sides. 

[156] 


OPEN-AIR  BUNGALOWS  AND  COTTAGES 


No.  91. — A  well  ventilated  cottage  of  the  summer-house  type,  resting  on 
piers  with  an  air  space  below  the  floor  enclosed  by  lattice  work.  {Courtesy 
of  Dr.  F.  M.  Pottenger.) 


The  Summer-house  Type  of  Cottage 

The  cottages  shown  in  Illustrations  Nos.  89,  90,  and  91 
are  modifications  of  the  old-fashioned  type  of  summer 
house  which  was  quite  common  in  country  yards  a  few 
years  ago.  These  buildings  are  of  frame  construction  with 
sills  sujijiorted  either  on  piers  or  posts.     The  floors  are 

[157  1 


FRESH  AIR 


No.  92. — An  inexpensive  frame  cottage  of  the  lean-to  type  for  open-air 
sleeping,  with  a  dressing-room  which  can  be  heated.  {Courtesy  of  Dr.  C.  S. 
Millet.) 


raised  about  two  feet  above  the  ground,  with  an  air  space 
under  them  either  open  or  enclosed  with  lattice  work. 
They  have  a  hip-roof  covered  with  shingles  and  an  air 
space  between  the  ceiling  and  the  roof  to  prevent  the  direct 
rays  of  the  sun  heating  the  interior.     Buildings  of  this 

[1581 


OPEN-AIR  BUNGALOWS  AND  COTTAGES 


type  are  usually  left  unfinished  or  sealed  with  narrow 
selected  boards  and  the  openings  protected  by  frames 
holding  sash  and  glass  or  canvas  curtains.  Such  cottages 
vary  in  size,  but  average  about  sixteen  feet  wide  by  twenty 
feet  long,  and  the  interior  is  divided  into  an  open  room  in 
front  with  a  dressing-room,  bath,  toilets,  and  closets  in  the 
rear. 

The  Lean-to  Type  of  Cottage 

The  name  used  for  this  method  of  constructing  buildings 
comes  from  the  old-time  Adirondack  lean-to  camp  which 
was  usually  built  of  a  framework  of  poles  and  covered  with 
bark.  The  buildings  as  used  at  the  present  time  have  a 
flat  roof  with  a  slope  to  the  rear,  the  back  being  closed  with 
a  low  wall  and  the  front  more  or  less  open  and  protected 
by  glass  and  sash  or  canvas  curtains. 

The  cottage  designed  by  Dr.  C.  S.  Millet  (see  Illustra- 
tions Nos.  92  and  93)  is  a  frame  building  supported  on 
cedar  posts,  sheathed  with  rough  lumber,  and  covered 
with  shingles.  The  roof  is  laid  at  quarter  pitch  with  the 
rise  to  the  front.  There  is  no  plastering  or  other  interior 
finish,  but  the  floor  is  laid  double  with  the  upper  layer  of 
narrow  hard  pine.  The  cottage  is  twelve  feet  wide  by 
eighteen  feet  long,  and  is  divided  by  a  partition  into  a  bed- 
room twelve  feet  wide  by  twelve  feet  long  which  is  open  on 
all  sides,  and  a  dressing  room  six  feet  wide  by  sixteen  feet 
long.  The  inclosed  room  is  lighted  by  two  windows, 
lieatcd  by  a  stove,  and  furnished  with  a  stationary  wash- 
stand  supplied  with  running  water,  a  toilet,  and  a  ward- 

f  150  1 


FRESH  AIR 


robe.  The  rear  wall  is  six  and  one-half  feet  high,  and  faces 
the  north  and  can  be  opened  or  closed  by  wooden  shutters. 
The  building  was  intended  for  one  person  and  cost  about 
two  hundred  dollars. 


No.  93. — Drawings  of  Dr.  Millet's  cottage  showing  some 
details  of  construction. 


The  Turn-table  House 

This  is  a  shelter  which  is  very  popular  in  European 
countries  and  is  used  on  private  grounds  for  one  or  two 
persons  and  at  sanatoria  for  as  many  as  ten  or  fifteen  indi- 
viduals. The  building  shown  in  Illustration  No.  94  is  a 
small  structure  about  seven  feet  square  set  upon  a  turn- 
table and  arranged  so  that  the  front  can  be  easily  moved 
toward  the  sun,  and  away  from  the  wind  or  tlie  direction 
from  which  a  storm  is  coming.     The  crank  for  turning 

[160  1 


OPEN-AIR  BUNGALOWS  AND  COTTAGES 


Ni).  94. — TIk-  'ruin-t;il)lc  lionsc  is  u  novel  arrangement  for  outdoor  sleep- 
ing, very  popular  in  IOwroi)e.  It  can  be  given  any  exposure  without  difficulty. 
{(Jourlesy  oj  E.  1<\  Ilodynon  &  Co.) 

fl611 


FRESH  AIR 


the  building  is  on  the  interior  so  that  it  is  possible  to  give 
the  house  any  exposure  without  leaving  it.  The  building 
is  constructed  of  light  boards  laid  in  sections  which  are 
bolted  together  so  that  it  can  be  taken  apart  or  put  up  in  a 
short  time.  The  front  is  protected  by  a  heavy  canvas 
curtain  attached  to  a  roller,  which  may  be  drawn  down  in 
very  stormy  weather  or  when  it  is  desirable  to  warm  the 
building.  On  each  side  are  extra  windows  for  ventilation 
and  light. 

Slab  Houses 

Slabs  may  be  used  on  the  outside  walls  of  small  build- 
ings. They  are  the  first  cuts  from  the  sides  of  a  log  that 
has  been  sawed  into  boards  and  can  often  be  obtained  at 
a  low  price,  as  they  are  considered  waste  material  in  saw 
mill  districts.  Slab  houses  are  built  by  sheathing  the 
frame  of  the  building  with  ordinary  rough  boards  and 
nailing  the  slabs  on  the  top  of  these.  If  the  slabs  are 
selected  and  carefully  laid,  the  structure  when  completed 
will  closely  resemble  a  log  house. 

Log  Houses 

Open-air  houses  are  also  built  of  logs,  but  they  are  usually 
more  expensive  than  brick  or  tile.  When  putting  up  a  log 
house  the  butts  and  small  ends  are  alternated  to  keep  the 
joints  as  near  horizontal  as  possible.  Each  log  must  be 
notched  about  halfway  through  at  both  ends  in  order  to 
allow  the  logs  from  the  adjoining  wall  to  project  through 
and  make  a  tight  joint  at  the  corners  and  hold  the  two 

[  162  1 


OPEN-AIR  BUNGALOWS  AND  COTTAGES 

walls  together.  Logs  are  sometimes  planed  on  two  sides 
so  as  to  make  a  level  surface  where  they  come  together. 
It  is  cheaper,  however,  to  lay  them  up  without  doing  this 
and  caulk  the  cracks  and  chinks  between  them  with  coarse 
plaster. 

Tree  Houses 

When  a  tree  house  is  mentioned  one  usually  thinks  of  a 
children's  playroom  elevated  among  the  branches  of  an 
old  tree  near  a  country  mansion.  But  tree  houses  are  also 
used  in  many  parts  of  this  country  and  in  Europe  for  out- 
door sleeping  purposes.  There  is  a  novelty  and  charm 
about  such  a  location  which  gives  a  feeling  of  height,  airi- 
ness, and  safety  to  the  outdoor  sleeper  housed  among  the 
leaves  and  boughs  of  a  great  tree.  The  woods  and  particu- 
larly the  evergreen  forests  are  ideal  sites  for  these  buildings, 
but  tree  houses  can  often  be  seen  in  the  yards  of  country 
homes  and  occasionally  perched  among  the  branches  of 
large  trees  in  the  suburbs  of  cities. 

Tree  houses  can  be  built  in  one  tree  if  there  are  two  or 
more  limbs  that  extend  out  at  a  convenient  angle  for 
supporting  the  structure  at  a  desirable  height  from  the 
ground,  or  they  may  be  built  in  a  grove  when  four 
or  more  trees  strong  enough  for  the  purpose  stand  in  a 
good  position  for  building  between  them.  When  the  site 
has  been  selected,  the  first  necessity  is  a  platform  with  a 
stairway  leading  to  it.  This  should  rest  on  four  by  six 
inch  timbers  when  the  si)acc  is  wide  between  tlie  l)earing 
points  on  the  trunks  or  limbs,  although  four  by  four  inch 

[1631 


FRESH  AIR 


beams  will  be  heavy  enough  if  the  supports  are  fairly  close 
together.  After  two  or  more  beams  have  been  well  se- 
cured on  the  same  plane,  floor  joists  can  be  laid  upon  them 
and  planks  or  floor  boards  laid  double  and  nailed  to  the 
joists.  After  a  substantial  platform  has  been  constructed 
the  shelter  can  be  raised  upon  it  in  the  same  manner  as  when 
building  the  walls  and  roof  of  a  cottage  upon  the  ground. 
The  tree  house  shown  in  the  frontispiece  is  supported 
by  the  trunks  of  trees  and  is  over  twelve  feet  above 
the  ground.  It  is  built  of  rough  lumber  covered  with 
slabs,  and  the  roof  is  sheathed  reinforced  with  roofing 
paper  and  battened  with  slabs. 


164 


CHAPTER  X 

Suggestions  for  Planning  New  Houses 
With  Open-air  Apartments 

THE  increasing  demand  for  sleeping  porches  and 
other  fresh-air  Hving  apartments  has  recently 
brought  about  numerous  changes  in  the  planning  of  dwell- 
ings, and  one  may  say  perhaps  without  exaggeration  that  a 
new  style  of  architecture  has  been  developed.  Sleeping 
porches,  loggias,  open  living  and  dining  rooms,  sun  parlors, 
and  numerous  windows  are  replacing  the  rooms  which  a 
few  years  ago  were  considered  comfortable  when  snugly 
inclosed,  but  which  it  is  believed  had  much  to  do  with  the 
great  increase  of  tuberculous  disease  during  the  nineteenth 
century. 

Selecting  the  Site 

In  planning  a  new  house  to  be  situated  in  the  suburbs 
of  a  city  or  a  country  district,  a  healthful  site  is  a  most 
important  requirement,  although  often  its  sanitary  state 
is  the  last  thing  to  be  considered.  A  healthy  site  tends  to 
make  a  healtliy  home,  and  a  building  to  be  healthy  needs 

I  10.5  1 


FRESH  AIR 


the  free  circulation  of  air  on  all  its  sides,  and  as  much  sun- 
light as  can  possibly  be  obtained.  The  larger  the  space 
allowed  between  adjacent  houses  the  healthier  will  be  the 
individual  dwelling.  Before  erecting  a  building  the  site 
should  be  carefully  studied  in  order  to  place  the  house  in 
the  best  possible  situation,  and  to  see  that  its  position  will 
not  prevent  the  free  circulation  of  air  over  the  land.  The 
air  which  enters  the  home  should  also  be  pure,  but  the  at- 
mosphere over  land  saturated  with  impurities  or  which 
has  been  filled  in  with  refuse  may  be  unwholesome.  For 
this  reason  a  site  near  factories,  filthy  yards,  old  out- 
buildings, unsanitary  drainage  conditions,  or  locations  re- 
ceiving the  surface  drainage  from  higher  levels,  and  close 
to  deep  undrained  depressions,  marshy  ground,  or  filthy 
streams  should  not  be  chosen.  The  ground  upon  which 
the  building  is  to  be  erected  should  slope  away  in  all  direc- 
tions, and  natural  drainage  streams  should  be  large  enough 
and  have  a  sufficient  drop  to  remove  rapidly  the  water 
which  falls  in  the  vicinity. 

Some  Points  on  the  Sanitary  Arrangement  of  the 
Interior 

It  should  be  remembered  when  planning  a  home  that  a 
healthy  dwelling  is  even  of  more  importance  than  beauty, 
comfort,  and  coziness,  although  all  of  these  desirable  quali- 
ties can  be  obtained  under  the  same  roof  if  the  house  is 
designed  and  constructed  in  accordance  with  modern 
sanitary  knowledge  and  based  upon  the  following  rules : 

1.  The  cellar  or  basement  should  be  high,  well  lighted 

[1661 


NEW  HOUSES  WITH  OPEN-AIR  APARTMENTS 

and  ventilated,  and  its  entire  floor  covered  with  well  laid 
cement. 

2.  The  foundation  should  be  of  stone  or  concrete,  carried 
to  a  solid  footing,  especial  care  being  taken  to  see  that  the 
cellar  walls  are  constructed  in  a  manner  that  will  prevent 
their  becoming  damp. 

3.  Floors  should  be  laid  double  throughout  the  house, 
and  the  finished  floor  surface  of  some  hard,  smooth  wood 
treated  with  a  filling  material  and  varnished  or  waxed. 

4.  The  plumbing  should  be  open;  th^t  is,  all  pipes  must 
be  kept  outside  of  walls  and  partitions,  and  in  no  case 
boxed,  but  entirely  exposed  so  that  they  are  under  con- 
stant observation. 

5.  All  rooms  should  be  well  lighted  by  large  windows, 
which  can  be  opened  both  at  the  top  and  the  bottom,  and 
wherever  possible  windows  should  be  placed  in  such  a 
position  that  cross-ventilation  can  be  obtained. 

6.  Bedrooms  should  not  be  small  and  box-like,  but  large 
and  airy,  having  at  least  one  thousand  cubic  feet  of  air 
space  for  each  occupant,  and  the  windows  and  transoms 
over  doors  arranged  so  that  cross-ventilation  can  easily 
be  obtained.  Storm  sash  when  used  should  be  hinged  or 
arranged  in  such  a  manner  that  they  can  be  opened  for  the 
entrance  of  air.  The  surface  of  the  walls  should  be  painted 
or  calcimined  and  not  papered,  so  that  it  may  be  renewed 
at  frequent  intervals. 

7.  The  sanitary  arrangements  of  servants'  bedrooms, 
toilets,  and  baths  should  be  planned  in  the  same  careful 
manner  as  the  rest  of  the  dwelling. 

f  107  1 


FRESH  AIR 


No.  95. — The  interior  of  a  loggia.     The  walls  are  plastered  and  the  floor  and 
ceiling  are  of  hard  wood. 

8.  Toilet  and  bath-rooms  should  have  large  windows 
and  be  placed  so  that  the  direct  rays  of  the  sun  can  reach 
the  interior  of  the  rooms. 

Preparing  Apartments  for  the  Sick 

When  designing  a  new  home  or  remodeling  an  old  one, 
it  is  often  necessary  to  provide  an  apartment  for  some 
member  of  the  family  suffering  from  a  chronic  disease.     It 

[  168  1 


NEW  HOUSES  WITH  OPEN-AIR  APARTMENTS 

is  very  important  both  for  the  comfort  of  the  invalid  and 
for  the  health  of  the  family  as  a  whole  that  proper  arrange- 
ments for  such  an  apartment  be  made,  particularly  if  the 
person  afflicted  has  tuberculosis.  The  rooms  chosen  for 
the  purpose  should  be  on  the  south  side  of  the  house,  con- 
nected with  an  open  loggia  or  porch,  and  prepared  in  such 
a  manner  that  absolute  cleanliness  can  be  maintained  with 
as  little  trouble  as  possible.  In  order  to  keep  them  in  this 
condition  the  walls  and  ceilings  of  inside  rooms  should  be 
plastered  with  hard  plaster  and  coated  with  enamel  or 
ordinary  paint  covered  with  varnish.  Colors  may  be 
used,  as  tinted  walls  are  more  pleasing  to  the  eye  and  are 
as  sanitary  as  plain  white  when  treated  in  the  same  man- 
ner. Either  a  light  olive  or  one  of  the  yellow  tones  will  be 
found  agreeable.  There  should  be  no  cornices  or  mould- 
ings of  plaster  or  wood  to  catch  the  dust.  Corners  and 
angles  where  walls  and  ceilings  join  should  be  rounded 
and  all  open  spaces  between  the  baseboard  and  the  walls 
filled  with  hard  plaster  before  the  walls  are  painted.  If 
the  interior  finish  is  of  soft  wood,  it  should  be  painted  or 
stained  and  varnished.  Hard  wood  can  be  done  in  oil  or 
varnish,  but  all  cracks  in  the  baseboard,  doors,  window 
casings,  and  other  woodwork  must  first  be  filled.  The 
floor  should  be  of  narrow  hard  wood  boards  carefully 
smoothed,  the  cracks  filled,  and  the  surface  finished  with 
an  oil  and  wax  dressing. 

Closet  walls,  ceilings,  and  floors  should  be  carefully 
treated  in  the  same  manner  as  the  walls  and  ceilings  of  the 
rooms,  and  cracks  in  the  shelves  and  between  the  shelves 

[169  1 


FRESH  AIR 


No.  96. — An  attractive  fresh-air  sleeping  room  protected  by  casement  win- 
dows.    {Designed  by  Mr.  E.  T.  Barnes.     Courtesy  of  " House  and  Garden.") 

and  walls,  as  well  as  old  screw  holes  and  holes  around  hooks, 
should  be  filled.  It  is  very  important  that  closets  in  the 
rooms  used  by  tuberculous  patients  be  well  lighted  and 
ventilated. 

Both  the  inner  rooms  and  the  porch  should  be  carefully 
screened  against  insects  with  wire  screens  on  metal  frames, 
and  painted  with  specially  prepared  paint,  at  least  once 
each  season. 

[170  1 


NEW  HOUSES  WITH  OPEN-AIR  APARTMENTS 

The  Planning  of  Fresh-air  Rooms 

In  designing  fresh-air  rooms  it  should  be  remembered 
that  these  apartments  are  more  or  less  exposed  to  the 
weather  and  should  be  finished  in  a  way  that  will  prevent 
the  walls  and  floor  from  being  injured  or  defaced  by  damp- 
ness and  exposure  to  the  sun's  direct  rays,  as  shown  in 
Illustration  No.  111.  Fresh-air  rooms  are  usually  built 
either  as  porches  standing  out  from  and  treated  as  a 
trimming  in  the  architectural  design  of  the  building,  or 
loggias  which  are  porticos  or  galleries  contained  within 
the  structure  as  shown  in  Illustrations  Nos.  95  to  98. 


No.  97. — A  small  frame  bungalow  covered  with  shingles.     There  is  a  fresh- 
air  room  at  each  end  open  on  all  sides. 
12  f  171  1 


FRESH  AIR 


No.  98. — A  simple,  artistic,  friime   bungalow  with   a   large   porch   on   the 
front  and  a  loggia  in  the  rear. 

These  apartments  must  be  located  where  they  will  har- 
monize with  the  exterior  of  the  house  and  look  well  from 
a  distance,  and  not  as  if  they  were  built  for  convenience 
without  thought  of  their  appearance.  It  is  because  of 
these  requirements  that  the  exact  dimensions  of  such 
apartments  cannot  be  given,  but  must  be  determined  as 
the  design  of  the  house  is  evolved.  Wide  porches  and 
loggias  cut  off  the  light  and  air  from  the  rooms  behind 
them  to  a  certain  extent,  and  for  that  reason  it  is  desirable 
to  place  them  in  front  of  rooms  which  receive  light  and  air 
from  two  sides.  This  method  has  been  followed  in  all 
the  plans  shown  in  this  chapter,  with  the  exception  of  one 

[172] 


NEW  HOUSES  WITH  OPEN-AIR  APARTMENTS 

or  two  instances  where  direct  light  and  air  are  received 
through  a  window  at  one  end  of  the  inside  room  beyond 
the  reach  of  the  porch.  Where  a  house  is  to  be  constructed 
on  a  city  or  town  site,  the  size  of  the  lot  will  be  the  de- 
termining factor  as  to  the  location  of  the  porches.  If 
the  lot  is  narrow,  the  open  rooms  must  be  either  in  the 
front  or  rear,  but  when  there  is  sufficient  space  it  should 
be  placed  in  the  most  secluded  spot. 

A  Country  Home  Designed  for  Open-air  Life 

The  house  shown  in  Illustrations  Nos.  99  and  100  was 
designed  by  Mr.  W.  K.  Shilling,  to  meet  the  present  de- 
mand for  outdoor  living  and  sleeping  apartments,  and  is 
described  here  through  the  courtesy  of  the  editor  of  "  Coun- 
try Life  in  America."  The  exterior  of  the  house  is  plain 
to  the  point  of  severity,  depending  wholly  on  structural 
features  and  proportion  for  effect.  The  walls  are  of  solid 
concrete,  waterproofed  on  the  inside  with  a  damp  proof 
compound,  the  outer  surface  being  finished  with  crushed 
quartz  washed  with  a  solution  of  hydrochloric  acid  in 
order  to  expose  the  surface  of  the  particles  and  produce  a 
play  of  color  in  sunlight.  The  terrace  forms  an  effective 
base  for  the  house,  and  connects  the  entrance  and  porches 
in  an  attractive  manner.  The  porch  and  terrace  floors 
are  of  cement  laid  over  gravel  filling  with  quarry  tile 
inserted  to  add  a  decorative  finish. 

The  principal  entrance  is  directly  on  the  grade,  and  leads 
through  to  a  vestibule  into  a  large  square  central  hall. 
To  the  right  is  the  living-room,  extending  through  the 

f  178  I 


FRESH  AIR 


No.  99. — A  country  home  with  outdoor  sleeping,  dining,  and  living  rooms. 
{Designed  by  W.  K.  Shilling.     Courtesy  of  "  Country  Life  in  America.") 

depth  of  the  house.  Beyond  this  is  the  outdoor  living 
room,  suppHed  with  a  large  fire-place  for  use  on  cool  even- 
ings. To  the  left  of  the  hall  lies  the  dining  room,  of  the 
same  dimensions  as  the  living  room.  Beyond  this  is  the 
outdoor  dining  room  connected  directly  with  the  butler's 
pantry,  which  makes  it  as  convenient  for  serving  meals  as 
the  dining  room  proper.  The  kitchen  opens  from  the 
butler's  pantry  and  is  a  unique  feature  of  the  house  as  it 
is  divided  into  two  sections,  the  kitchen  proper  in  which 
is  done  the  general  work,  and  a  separate  room  for  cooking 
only.  By  this  arrangement  all  the  heat  and  steam  are 
kept  from  the  kitchen,  making  it  as  comfortable  as  any 
part  of  the  house.  There  is  a  servants'  porch  at  the  rear 
of  the  kitchen,  well  screened  from  the  rest  of  the  building. 

[174  1 


NEW  HOUSES  WITH  OPEN-AIR  APARTMENTS 

In  the  cellar  are  the  laundry,  heater,  and  storage  rooms 
for  fruit,  vegetables,  and  fuel. 

The  hall  and  inside  living-room  and  dining-room  which 


No.  100. — Plans  of  a  country  home.  The  open  rooms  can  be  inclosed  with 
glass  in  winter.  Those  on  the  second  story  are  all  connected  witii  a  bath. 
{Designed  by  W.  K.  Shilling.     Courtesy  of  "Country  Life  in  America.") 

[175  1 


FRESH  AIR 


constitute  the  first  floor  are  practically  one  large  room. 
This  scheme  gives  an  effect  of  spaciousness  and  makes  a 
livable  house  as  well.  The  porches  which  constitute  the 
outdoor  living  and  dining  rooms  can  be  inclosed  with 
glass  during  the  cold  months,  thus  forming  delightful 
winter  gardens  or  sun  parlors. 

On  the  second  floor  are  three  outdoor  sleeping  rooms 
connected  directly  with  bath  rooms  and  chambers.  The 
floors  of  the  upper  porches  are  of  reinforced  concrete,  and 
each  porch  is  fitted  with  insect  screens  and  canvas  shields. 
The  bath  room  walls  and  floors  are  insulated  to  prevent 
freezing  and  the  wainscoting  and  flooring  are  of  tile.  The 
windows  are  all  of  the  casement  type,  located  on  opposite 
sides  of  the  rooms  to  insure  good  ventilation  and  an 
abundance  of  sunlight.  The  roof  is  of  red  shingle  tile  with 
a  projecting  cornice  and  hanging  gutters. 

The  cost  of  constructing  the  house  will  vary  in  different 
parts  of  the  country,  but  the  following  is  an  estimate  based 
on  prices  in  a  given  locality: 

Excavating $    110.00 

Cement,  etc 3,175.00 

Carpenter,  etc 3,650.00 

Plastering 410.00 

Roofing  and  sheet  metal 780.00 

Painting  and  glazing 475.00 

Mantels 250.00 

Tile  floors,  etc 210.00 

Hardware 165.00 

Plumbing 500.00 

Heating  (furnace) 200.00 

Total $9,925.00 

[  176  1 


NEW  HOUSES  WITH  OPEN-AIR  APARTMENTS 


No.  101. — An  artistic  frame  house  with  a  sun  parlor  and  sleeping  loggia. 
{Designed  by  Messrs.  Scopes  &  Feustmann.     Courtesy  of  "House  and  Garden") 


A  Frame  House  with  Two  Open-air  Apartments 

The  frame  house  shown  in  Illustrations  Nos.  101  and  102 
was  designed  to  provide  an  ordinary  country  home  with  a 
large  fresh-air  sitting  room  on  the  first  floor  and  a  sleeping 
loggia  on  the  second.  The  building  is  situated  in  a  cold 
climate  and  all  the  walls  with  the  exception  of  those  in- 
closing the  open-air  rooms  are  well  insulated.  This  is 
done  by  placing  on  the  outside  of  the  frame  under  the 
sln'ngles  two  layers  of  shipla])  siding  and  heavy  sheathing 

[177.1 


FRESH  AIR 


paper.  The  house  is  covered  by  a  gambrel  roof  which  is 
a  particularly  good  type  for  cold  countries,  as  it  is  steep 
and  heavy  masses  of  snow  slide  off  easily.  In  this  instance 
the  insulation  is  carried  well  up  on  the  roof  to  the  height 
of  the  attic  ceiling.     There  is  an  air  space  between  the 


No.  102. — Plans  of  a  frame  house  showing  position  of  the  sun  parlor  and 
relation  of  the  sleeping  loggia  to  two  bedrooms.  {Designed  by  Messrs. 
Scopes  &  Feustmann.     Courtesy  of  "House  and  Garden.") 


shingles  and  the  sheathing  of  the  roof  which  is  made  by 
placing  one-inch  strips  between  these  layers.  All  the 
floors  in  this  house  are  laid  double  with  an  insulation  of 
felt  between  the  two  thicknesses  of  flooring. 

In  studying  the  floor  plans  it  will  be  seen  that  the  en- 

f  178  1 


NEW  HOUSES  WITH  OPEN-AIR  APARTMENTS 

trance  porch  on  the  front  of  the  house  is  entirely  separate 
from  the  open-air  sitting  room.  This  arrangement  is  in- 
tended to  insure  the  same  privacy  and  isolation  to  those 
occupying  the  sitting  room  as  would  be  obtained  in  an 
ordinary  drawing  room.  The  open-air  rooms  are  in  the 
most  advantageous  positions,  with  south  and  east  ex- 
posures, and  their  walls  are  finished  with  shingles  as  a 
continuation  of  the  exterior  walls  of  the  house.  The  open 
sitting  room  is  entirely  inclosed  with  glass  in  sash  which 
slide  horizontally  on  the  side  and  open  as  casement  win- 
dows on  the  front.  The  ceilings  of  both  open  rooms  are 
ceiled  with  narrow  North  Carolina  pine  boards,  and  the 
floors  are  laid  flush  with  the  inside  floor  in  order  that  beds 
and  other  furniture  can  be  readily  moved  from  the  inside 
or  outside  rooms  without  difiiculty. 

A  Brick  House  with  a  Sleeping  Porch 

The  house  shown  in  Illustrations  Nos- 103  and  104-  was 
designed  by  Mr.  Gustav  Stickley,  and  is  described  here 
through  the  courtesy  of  the  editor  of  "The  Craftsman." 
It  is  simple  in  outline,  but  the  very  plainness  of  its  walls 
and  the  clean  unbroken  angles,  give  it  an  air  of  durability 
as  well  as  comfort.  The  variety  in  the  sizes  and  sorts  of 
windows  suggest,  in  some  indefinable  way,  quiet  retired 
nooks.  In  the  same  way  the  design  of  the  porch  gives  the 
idea  of  protection  and  hospitality.  Two  square  pillars 
rise  to  the  full  height  of  the  walls  to  support  a  beam  upon 
which  rests  the  roof,  which  projects  beyond  the  main 
eaves  to  cover  the  sleeping  balcony  below.     This  l>alcony 

I  179  1 


FRESH  AIR 


No.  103. — A  brick  house  with  a  sleeping  porch.     {Designed  by  Mr.  Gustav 
Stickley.     Courtesy  of  "The  Craftsman.") 


is  supported  upon  two  wooden  pillars  and  upon  brackets 
against  the  side  of  the  house,  and  forms  the  top  of  the 
porch  on  the  ground  story.  The  wooden  construction 
stands  slightly  withdrawn  into  the  house,  protected  from 
winter  storms,  and  sheltered  from  the  heat  of  summer. 

The  walls  of  the  house  are  of  dark  red  brick  set  with 
wide  joints.  The  roof  is  covered  with  rough  slate,  deep 
green  in  color.  The  angles  are  edged  with  Spanish  tiles 
that  repeat  the  red  of  the  walls.  The  exposed  rafters 
and  purlins  are  of  cypress  chemically  treated  to  a  soft 
brown  which,  coming  between  the  red  of  the  wall  and  the 
green  of  the  roof,  weaves  the  two  colors  together  and 

[180  1 


NEW  HOUSES  WITH  OPEN-AIR  APARTMENTS 

brings  them  into  a  fuller  harmony.  Thus  the  general  tone 
of  the  house  is  dark,  but  this  is  relieved  of  all  tendency 
toward  somberness  by  the  inner  pillars,  the  sleeping  porch 
that  they  support,  and  the  frames  of  the  windows,  all  of 
which  are  painted  white. 

Upstairs,  the  bedrooms  are  large  and  airy  with  com- 
modious closets,  and  the  sleeping  porch  is  a  good  sized 
room  itself.  Below,  the  big  living  room  runs  across  the 
front  of  the  house.  At  one  side,  the  stairs  to  the  second 
story  lead  up  from  a  long  raised  landing.  The  house  may 
be  entered  by  French  doors,  opening  from  the  back  of  the 


Xo.  lOi.  I'liiii.s  of  a  brick  lioii.sc  .sli(jvviiig  rclalion  of  sleeping  porch  to  the 
bedrooms,  and  llie  interesting  arrangement  of  the  first  floor.  {Designed  by 
Mr.  Gusluv  Sliflilcij.     Courlesij  of  "  The  Crdjlanuiii.") 

I  181  I 


FRESH  AIR 


No.  105. — A  house  with  an  entire  wing  of  open  rooms. 
(Designed  by  Messrs.  Scopes  and  Feustmann.  Courtesy  of  "House 
and  Garden.") 

porch  directly  into  the  living  room,  or  by  the  more  formal 
entrance  which  opens  first  into  a  vestibule.  The  dining 
room  is  practically  a  part  of  the  living  room,  and  its  out- 
side wall  is  almost  wholly  taken  up  by  a  group  of  windows. 

A  House  with  an  Entire  Wing  of  Open  Rooms 

The  dwelling  shown  in  Illustrations  Nos.  105  and  106  is 
a  small  frame  structure  containing  an  open-air  sitting  room 
and  a  sleeping  loggia.  It  was  designed  for  a  northern 
climate,  and  the  walls  with  the  exception  of  those  in  the 
open  rooms  are  insulated  with  Cabot's  sheathing  quilt, 

[  182  1 


NEW  HOUSES  WITH  OPEN-AIR  APARTMENTS 


held  in  place  by  strips  of  lath  nailed  in  the  angles  made  by 
the  studding  and  sheathing  boards.  There  is  a  large 
north  porch  in  connection  with  the  front  entrance  which 
can  be  used  for  fresh-air  purposes  in  summer,  but  the 
interesting  portion  of  the  building  is  the  free  standing  wing 
at  the  rear  which  is  treated  by  itself  as  an  architectural 
feature,  and  contains  the  open  rooms  having  a  southern 
exposure.  From  the  outside,  these  apartments  have  the 
same  appearance  as  the  main  part  of  the  house,  and  the 
walls  up  to  the  line  of  the  window-sill  of  the  second  story 
appear  to  be  constructed  in  a  like  manner  although  they 
are  merely  studding  and  shingles.  The  interior  of  the 
loggias  are  finished  with  shingles  to  correspond  with  the 
exterior  of  the  building.  The  east  and  west  sides  are  pro- 
tected by  sliding  sash  and  glass,  but  the  southern  exposure 
is  left  open. 


■t^^ 


No.  106. — Plans  for  a  house  with  a  free  standing  wing  used  for  fresh-air 
apartments.  {Designed  by  Messrs.  Scopes  &  Feustmann.  Courtesy  of  "House 
and  Garden.") 

[183] 


FRESH  AIR 


No.  107. — A  small  house  with  a  pleasing  exterior  ar- 
ranged to  have  an  outdoor  dining  room  and  sleeping  loggia. 
{Designed  by  Messrs.  Scopes  &  Feustmann.  Courtesy  of 
"House  and  Garden.") 


A  House  with  an  Outdoor  Dining  Room  and  Loggia 

The  small  house  shown  in  Illustrations  Nos.  107  and  108 
faces  the  south,  and  besides  containing  an  open-air  dining 
room  and  sleeping  loggia  has  a  large  porch  in  connection 
with  the  entrance  which  is  used  for  fresh-air  purposes. 
The  first  story  is  of  frame  construction  insulated  with 
heavy  building  paper,  and  finished  on  the  outside  with  a 
special  novelty  siding  left  in  the  rough,  and  stained  a  light 
brown.     The  second  story  is  finished  in  cement  and  lime 

[  184  1 


NEW  HOUSES  WITH  OPEN-AIR  APARTMENTS 

stucco  over  galvanized  metal  lath  and  insulated  between 
the  studs  with  Cabot's  quilt.  The  open-air  dining  room 
is  sealed  with  rough  novelty  siding  to  correspond  with  the 
exterior  walls  of  the  house  and  entirely  inclosed  with  sash 
and  glass.  The  side  walls  of  the  sleeping  loggia  are 
finished  with  stucco  and  the  ceiling  ceiled  with  North 
Carolina  narrow  pine  boards.  The  loggia  is  connected 
with  two  bedrooms  and  a  hall,  is  open  on  the  south,  and 
protected  by  casement  windows  on  the  east.  The  south 
wall  of  the  large  front  bedroom  is  almost  entirely  made  up 
of  windows,  and  cross  ventilation  can  be  obtained  through 
the  door  into  the  loggia.  The  west  side  of  this  room  is 
given  up  to  closet  space  as  the  gable  roof  at  this  point 
somewhat  cuts  down  the  height  of  the  outer  walls. 


No.  108. — The  plans  of  this  small  house  were  designed  to  give  the  outdoor 
dining-room  a  northern  exposure  and  plaee  the  loggia  on  the  south  side.  {De- 
signed  by  Messrs.  Scopes  &  Feustmann.     Courtesy  of  "House  and  Garden.") 

\  185  1 


FRESH  AIR 


No.  109. — A  little  house  with  big  comforts  which  include  a  large  first  floor 
porch  and  a  sleeping  loggia.  {Designed  by  Mr.  Ovstav  Stickley.  Courtesy  of 
"  The  Craftsman.") 


A  Little  House  with  Big  Comforts 

The  house  shown  in  Illustrations  No.  109  and  110  was 
designed  by  Mr.  Gustav  Stickley,  and  is  described  here 
through  the  courtesy  of  the  editor  of  "The  Craftsman." 
It  is  twenty-eight  and  one-half  feet  by  twenty-six  feet, 
including  the  porch,  and  contains  all  the  comforts  and 
conveniences  essential  to  a  normal  life  of  a  small  family 
in  the  country  or  in  a  suburban  town. 

The  walls  are  covered  with  broad  weather-boarding 
which  gives  them  a  rugged  and  interesting  texture.  The 
floor  of  the  porch  is  of  cement,  so  that  it  may  be  easily 
cleaned  with  a  garden  hose.     The  pillars  with  the  flower 

[186] 


NEW  HOUSES  WITH  OPEN-AIR  APARTMENTS 

boxes  between  them,  forming  a  low  parapet,  are  of  the  same 
material. 

Within,  every  effort  has  been  made  to  utilize  the  floor 
space  to  the  best  advantage.  There  is  no  dining  room,  but 
the  porch  may  be  used  for  the  purpose  in  mild  weather  as 
both  the  kitchen  and  living  room  open  on  to  it  by  broad 
French  doors.  The  walls  of  the  living  room  contain  a  great 
deal  of  glass,  for  besides  the  windows  opening  upon  the 
porch  there  is  a  group  of  windows  at  the  end  of  the  house, 
and  the  room  is  as  light  and  airy  as  one  in  a  larger  building 
would  be.  A  high  wainscoting  of  V-jointed  boards  runs 
almost  to  the  ceiling.  The  plaster  is  rough  and  is  colored 
to  harmonize  with  the  woodwork.  The  chimneypiece  is  of 
split  field  stone  with  a  hearth  of  rough  tile,  and  the  fire- 
place has  a  hood  of  hammered  iron  which  aids  in  heating 


PIS  ST  JOOOK  PLAN 


SECOND,  FLOOR  PLAN 


Xo.  110. — Plans  for  a  little  house.    The  arrangement  of  the  living  room  and 
kitchen  is  interesting.     The  loggia  can  be  entered  from  both  chambers. 
{Designed  by  Mr.  (In.ifav  Stickley.     Courteay  of  "  The  Craftsman. ") 
13  fl87| 


FRESH  AIR 


No.  111. — An  artistically  arranged  and  appropriately  furnished  outdoor  sit- 
ting room  in  a  country  mansion.     {Courtesy  of  "Country  Life  in  America.") 


the  room.  The  fire-dogs  are  also  of  iron,  as  are  the  little 
lanterns  suspended  from  brackets  set  into  the  rough  stone- 
work on  either  side  of  the  chimneypiece,  which  greatly 
increase  the  interest  of  this  end  of  the  room,  at  the  same 
time  throwing  a  convenient  light  into  the  bookcases  beside 
the  chimneypiece.  The  wooden  paneling  in  these  book- 
case doors,  and  the  finish  of  iron  locks  and  handles,  give 
them  an  unusually  solid  appearance  and  the  whole  house 
has  a  sturdiness  about  it  that  adds  to  the  charm. 

[1881 


NEW  HOUSES  WITH  OPEN-AIR  APARTMENTS 

The  kitchen  is  well  furnished  by  the  built-in  fittings. 
On  one  side  of  the  room  is  a  large  cupboard  containing  a 
store  closet  with  drawers  below,  and  china  closets  above. 
Opposite  this  is  a  counter  shelf  which  has  a  closet  and 
several  drawers  beneath  it,  and  the  arrangement  is  raised 
upon  three-inch  legs  so  that  it  is  possible  to  stand  close  to 
it.  Behind  the  kitchen  is  a  cold  closet  and  an  outdoor 
ice-box.  The  stairs  lead  from  the  corner  of  the  living  room 
to  the  second  story,  which  contains  two  large  chambers 
with  good  closets  and  a  bath  room. 

The  sleeping  porch  has  been  managed  by  means  of  a 


No.  112. — An  atlractivo   fresh-air  sitting  room  entirely  incloscsd  by  triple 
liung  f^lass  and  sasli  windows. 

[  189  ] 


FRESH  AIR 


No.  113. — An  interesting  frame  house  with  four  open  rooms  under 
the  main  roof.  {Designed  by  Messrs.  Scopes  &  Feustmann.  Courtesy 
of  ''House  and  Garden.'') 

dormer  roof  broken  through  above  the  porch.  No  es- 
sential convenience  is  missing  in  the  Httle  home,  and  there 
is  much  beautj^  in  its  structure  and  finish. 

An  Interesting  House  with  Four  Open-air  Rooms 

The  house  shown  in  Illustrations  Nos.  113  and  114  has 
four  open-air  rooms,  an  unusual  arrangement  of  the  floor 
plans,  and  a  pleasing  exterior.  The  lower  story  is  of  frame 
construction,  and  the  second  story  of  stucco  over  gal- 
vanized metal  lath.  The  entire  outer  walls  are  insulated 
with  Cabot's  quilt,  carried  high  up  on  the  gable  roof  above 
the  ceiling  of  the  third  story. 

[1901 


NEW  HOUSES  WITH  OPEN-AIR  APARTMENTS 

On  the  first  floor  are  two  loggias,  one  used  as  a  sitting, 
the  other  as  a  dining  room.  The  front  of  the  house  has  a 
southern  exposure,  and  the  main  entrance  is  through  the 
open-air  sitting  room.  The  open-air  dining  room  has  a 
northern  exposure,  but  also  receives  the  sun  from  the  east 
and  is  inclosed  with  sliding  sash  and  glass.  The  sleeping 
loggia  on  the  south  side  of  the  house  is  large  and  will  ac- 
commodate four  beds.  It  is  open  on  the  front  but  has 
glass  and  sash  protection  on  both  the  east  and  west  sides. 
The  north  loggia  is  protected  on  the  east  by  casement 
windows  and  on  the  north  by  sliding  sash.  The  interior 
walls  of  all  the  open  rooms  are  finished  in  the  same  manner 
as  the  exterior  walls,  in  order  to  harmonize  in  an  artistic 
manner  with  the  outside  of  the  building. 


No.  lit. — The  plans  for  tliis  frame  houso  provide  open  dining  and  siUing 
nKjms,  and  u  large  and  small  sleeping  loggia.  {Dcdgned  by  Messrs.  Scopes  & 
Feuslmann.     Coiirtrsi/  of  "House  and  Garden.") 

I  191  I 


FRESH  AIR 


No.  115. — A  summer  log  house  with  the  entire  upper  floor  arranged  for 
open-air  sleeping.  {Designed  by  Mr.  Gustav  Stickley.  Courtesy  of  "  The 
Craftsman.'") 


A  Summer  Log  House 

The  log  house  shown  in  Illustrations  Nos.  115  and  116 
was  designed  by  Mr.  Gustav  Stickley,  and  is  described 
here  through  the  courtesy  of  the  editor  of  "The  Crafts- 
man." It  is  constructed  of  logs  placed  in  an  upright 
position  and  the  main  feature  is  the  open  sleeping  room. 
The  logs  may  be  of  either  chestnut,  cedar,  oak,  or  what- 
ever wood  is  most  convenient  to  the  land  to  be  built  upon. 
If  chestnut,  the  bark  should  be  removed;  if  cedar,  it  may  be 
left  on.  Logs  from  which  the  bark  is  removed  weather 
to  a  beautiful  rich  tone,  one  impossible  to  duplicate  by  a 
stain.     The  chinking  is  of  Portland  cement  and  sand  (one 

[  192  1 


NEW  HOUSES  WITH  OPEN-AIR  APARTMENTS 

part  cement  and  three  parts  sand)  and,  therefore,  per- 
manent. It  will  take  a  stain  like  the  logs  if  desired  or  will 
weather  with  them  to  a  soft  natural  lustre.  The  shingles 
on  the  roof  should  be  split  instead  of  sawed,  for  when 
sawed  a  nap  is  left  which  discolors,  turning  them  an  ugly 
brown  instead  of  the  soft  colors  that  time  gives  the  split 
shingles.  The  logs  can  be  hewn  if  desired,  though  where 
they  fit  together  they  will  give  a  better  bond  and  will  hold 
the  cement  chinking  tighter  if  left  unhewn,  which  insures 
greater  permanence. 

In  order  that  the  house  may  be  constructed  as  cheaply 
as  possible  there  is  only  one  chimney  in  the  plan.     The 


1 

♦*■ 

— '      i 

11 

i.            i 

r             1 

'  L 

1 

X  ^MH 

V 

J       Ii 

-  M"^   L 

'. 

No.  lie. — The  first  flo(jr  plan  of  a  .summer  log  hou.se  .showing 
the  arrangement  of  fire-place  and  windows.     {Designed  by  Mr, 
Gustav  Stickley.     Courtesy  of  "The  Craftsman.") 
[193  1 


FRESH  AIR 


Hi' 


No.  117. — A  country  house  with  an  open-air  sitting  room  and  loggia. 
{Designed  by  Messrs.  Scopes  &  Feustmann.  Courtesy  of  "  House  and 
Garden.") 


main  room  is  to  be  used  as  the  dining-room.  The  windows 
are  of  the  easement  variety  which  are  much  cheaper  than 
double-hung  windows,  and  can  be  easily  removed  and 
screens  inserted  for  the  summer  months.  The  board  floor 
can  be  made  of  North  Carolina  or  yellow  pine. 

A  House  with  Two  Open-air  Rooms 

The  country  home  shown  in  Illustrations  Nos.  117  and 
118  has  a  large  open-air  sitting  room  and  sleeping  loggia. 
The  house  is  of  frame  and  stucco  construction,  with  an 
entire  wing  in  the  rear  under  a  separate  gable  given  up  to 
the  open-air  apartments.  These  are  designed  in  the  form 
of  loggias  with  the  southern  front  open  to  the  weather  and 

[  194  1 


NEW  HOUSES  WITH  OPEN-AIR  APARTMENTS 

the  east  and  west  sides  protected  by  casement  windows. 
The  interior  walls  of  the  open  sitting-room  are  finished 
with  shingles  to  harmonize  with  the  exterior  of  the  house. 
The  ceiling  is  ceiled  with  narrow  North  Carolina  pine 
boards,  and  the  floor  boards  are  laid  in  white  lead  and  oil, 
with  a  pitch  of  one  inch  to  five  feet.  The  walls  of  the 
sleeping  loggia  are  of  stucco,  and  the  floor  and  ceiling  are 
constructed  in  the  same  manner  as  in  the  sitting  room. 
Both  open  rooms  are  drained  through  scuppers  or  holes 
at  the  floor  level,  which  are  fitted  with  little  trap  doors 
hung  from  the  top  to  prevent  the  cold  air  entering  the 
loggias  about  the  feet. 


i^ 


Xo.  118. — Plans  of  a  country  hoiise  designed  to  place  the  fresh-air  rooms  in  a 
wing  under  <a  separate  gal)le.  {Designed  by  Messrs.  Scopes  &  Feustmann. 
Courtesy  of  "House  and  Garden.") 

I  195  I 


CHAPTER  XI 

Roof  Playgrounds  for  Children 

The  Need  for  Playgrounds 

PRIVATE  and  public  roof  playgrounds  for  children 
are  found  scattered  through  almost  any  large  city, 
but  they  are  few  in  number  when  compared  with  the 
many  good  sites  that  might  be  used  for  the  purpose. 
The  roof  space  in  the  crowded  sections  of  every  city  should 
be  utilized  for  the  open-air  life  of  children,  as  they  par- 
ticularly need  good  air  and  can  get  it  in  a  much  purer 
state  on  the  tops  of  buildings  than  in  the  dark,  dirty,  and 
dangerous  streets.  The  beneficial  effects  of  the  action  of 
fresh  air  upon  the  child's  body  and  mind  cannot  be  too 
strongly  expressed.  Exercise  and  pure  air  dilate  the  air 
cells  of  the  lungs,  increase  the  chest  expansion,  aid  in  the 
removal  of  waste  material,  and  purify  the  body,  thus 
diminishing  the  possibility  of  illness  through  infection  by 
disease  germs.  Fresh  air  is  now  taking  the  place  of 
medicine  in  the  treatment  of  a  number  of  the  diseases  of 
childhood,  and  is  the  chief  remedy  in  the  cure  of  tuber- 
culosis and  pneumonia,  for  it  helps  nature  to  throw  off 
and  conquer  the  bacteria  which  produce  the  poison  of  these 
diseases. 

[  196,] 


ROOF  PLAYGROUNDS  FOR  CHILDREN 


Cities  were  built  for  the  use  of  grown-up  people,  and 
little  thought  has  been  given  to  the  needs  of  children  in 
the  gradual  growth  and  development  of  towns.  While 
good  homes  are,  of  course,  found  in  cities  as  well  as  in  the 
country  districts,  there  is  little  doubt  but  that  there  are 
more  sickly  boys  and  girls  in  the  city  than  there  are 
among  the  same  number  of  children  in  the  country. 
Many  children  know  no  better  home  than  the  crowded 
tenement,  and  no  other  life  than  that  of  the  congested 
streets  of  city  slums.  For  such  children,  the  roof  play- 
ground is  a  moral  as  well  as  a  physical  safeguard,  and  the 
ill  effects  of  city  life  can  be  diminished  to  a  marked  degree 
by  providing  for  them  an  open  space  above  the  streets 
upon  which  they  may  safely  play. 

Usually,  the  air  in  inclosed  spaces  is  not  pure,  and  par- 
ticularly is  this  true  of  buildings  where  large  numbers  of 
people  are  housed  or  congregate.  Children  are  generally 
confined  in  schoolrooms  during  a  large  part  of  the  day,  and 
they  should  therefore  be  provided  with  open  spaces  where 
they  can  breathe  pure  air  at  other  times.  A  child  cannot 
get  too  much  fresh  air,  and  there  is  practically  no  limit  to 
the  benefit  growing  children  derive  from  playing  where 
they  can  breathe  it.  Not  merely  the  child's  health,  but 
his  capacity  for  learning  will  increase,  and  his  mental 
faculties  be  stimulated,  by  providing  more  favorable  condi- 
tions for  his  play.  For  sickly  children  who  are  not  able 
to  attend  school,  an  open-air  playground  is  of  even  more 
importance  than  for  the  healthy,  and  ])arents  should  in 
such  cases  follow  the  methods  of  the  open-air  schools  and 

[  197  1 


FRESH  AIR 


provide  reclining  chairs  and  sitting-out  bags,  so  that  their 
children  may  have  a  fair  chance  for  the  better  health 
which  may  be  gained  in  the  open  air. 

It  will  be  found  in  many  cases,  where  weak  and  sickly 
children  have  no  definite  disease,  that  a  free  life  in  the 
open  will  increase  their  appetite,  size  and  weight,  make 
them  more  alert,  and  cause  nervous  and  irritable  symp- 
toms to  disappear.  Children  who  are  confined  in  closed 
rooms  become  mentally  weary  quicker  than  those  who 
live  out  of  doors,  and  their  capacity  for  learning  is  less,  for 
perfect  health  produces  the  best  brain  action.  There  is  a 
close  relationship  between  bodily  strength  and  mental 
power,  and  the  impairment  of  physical  vigor  soon  weakens 
the  mental  capacity. 

Positions  for  Roof  Playgrounds 

The  flat  roof  of  almost  any  well  constructed  building 
may  be  used  as  a  playground.  (See  Illustration  No.  119.) 
Even  a  very  small  space  will  give  pleasure  to  little  children, 
and  afford  them  an  opportunity  to  breathe  fresh  air.  In 
planning  a  playground  its  size  must,  of  course,  depend 
upon  the  roof  space  that  can  be  used  for  the  purpose. 
Even  a  roof  area  as  small  as  eight  feet  by  ten  feet  should 
not  be  rejected  when  it  is  impossible  to  provide  a  larger 
one.  In  addition  to  the  flat  roofs  of  large  buildings,  there 
are  in  most  cities  rows  upon  rows  of  two  and  three  story 
houses  with  low,  flat-roofed  extensions  in  the  rear.  (See 
Illustrations  Nos.  121,  123,  and  124.)  The  tops  of  these 
extensions  are  generally  well  protected  from  the  wind, 

[1981 


ROOF  PLAYGROUNDS  FOR  CHILDREN 


No.  119. — A  steel  frame  over  a  playground  on  a  private  dwelling  for  the  support 
of  wire  netting  and  weather  protection.     {Courtesy  of  Dr.  W.  P.  Northrwp.) 

and  make  ideal  sites  for  small  playgrounds  and  roof  gar- 
dens. 

In  order  to  make  these  little  breathing  places  attractive, 
long,  narrow  flower  boxes,  made  like  the  ordinary  window- 

[  199  1 


FRESH  AIR 


box  can  be  placed  around  the  edge  of  the  roof  inside  the 
parapet,  and  vines  and  flowers  may  be  cultivated  as  is 
shown  in  Illustration  No.  120.  Some  fast  growing  ivy 
or  rambler,  planted  at  various  points  along  the  side  of 
the  playground,  will  soon  spread  over  the  entire  wire  net- 
ting, making  an  attractive  screen. 

The  Construction  of  Roof  Playgrounds 

The  construction  of  a  roof  playground  or  an  open  play- 
room is  a  simple  matter.     In  cities  where  the  fire  laws  will 


No.  120. — A  garden  and  playground  on  the  roof  of  a  model  apartment  build- 
ing.    {Courtesy  of  the  Playground  and  Recreation  Association.) 
[2001 


ROOF  PLAYGROUNDS  FOR  CHILDREN 


No.  121. — A  playground  on  the  roof  of  the  rear  extension  of  a  city  dwelling. 
{Courtesy  of  Dr.  W.  P.  Northrwp.) 


permit  the  use  of  wood,  the  problem  is  only  one  of  local 
conditions,  and  the  needs  of  each  individual  case  can 
usually  be  settled  cheaply.  In  its  simplest  form,  a  play- 
ground consists  merely  of  a  platform  surrounded  by  a 
fence,  or  if  some  form  of  shelter  is  desirable,  an  open  shed 
with  only  a  roof  and  one  or  two  sides  inclosed  may  be 
erected.  A  more  elaborate  plan  is  to  inclose  the  play- 
ground with  large  mesh  wire  netting  that  can  be  covered 
by  canvas  curtains  to  keep  out  the  wind,  rain  or  snow,  in 
stormy  weather.     Tents  are  sometimes  used  in  place  of 

[  201  1 


FRESH  AIR 


wooden  and  iron  shelters  and  are  fairly  satisfactory  while 
in  good  repair,  but  they  do  not  last  long.  Of  course, 
throughout  the  year,  there  are  days  and  sometimes  an 
entire  week  when  no  simple  device  will  afford  adequate 
protection.  At  such  periods  the  children  will  be  driven 
indoors  by  the  storms,  and  then  is  the  time  to  practice  the 
open-air  theory  by  the  simplest  of  all  devices,  the  open 


No.  122. — A  roof  playground  on  a  model  tenement  house  in  New  York  City. 

{Courtesy   of  the   Playground   and   Recreation   Association.) 

[  202  1 


ROOF  PLAYGROUNDS  FOR  CHILDREN 


No.  123. — An  inexpensive  playf^round  supported  on  an  extension  roof  of  a 
city  dwelling.     {Courlcurj  of  Dr.  R.  L.  Dickinson.) 


14 


203 


FRESH  AIR 


window.  Of  course,  this  is  not  possible  in  all  homes,  but 
where  a  room  in  a  corner  of  the  house  can  be  given  up  to 
the  children,  two  sides  of  it  may  be  opened  to  the  fresh 
air,  and  children  in  their  outdoor  dress  allowed  to  play 
there. 

The  cheapest  form  of  roof  playground  is  made  by  lay- 
ing two  by  four  inch  timbers  on  edge  about  two  feet  apart 
over  the  roofing,  and  on  these  nailing  ordinary  floor  boards. 


No.  124. — ^A  small  playground  partly  inclosed  with  large  mesh  wire  netting, 
and  protected  by  canvas  curtains.     {Courtesy  of  Dr.  W.  P.  Northrup.) 

f  204  1 


ROOF  PLAYGROUNDS  FOR  CHILDREN 


No.  125. — A  large  playground  showing  method  of  roof  construction. 
{Courtesy   of  the   Playground   and   Recreation   Association.) 

Around  the  edge  of  the  floor  thus  formed,  at  about  five 
foot  intervals,  are  placed  four  by  four  inch  timber  posts, 
six  feet  high,  which  should  be  well  braced.  To  these  posts 
a  heavy  large  mesh  wire  netting  is  nailed.  Where  the 
width  of  the  playground  floor  is  not  great,  two  by  four 
inch  timber  rafters  can  be  laid  across  the  ground  between 
each  of  two  opposite  posts,  and  the  entire  space  covered 
with  netting.  If  the  ground  is  too  wide  for  a  single  span, 
a  row  of  four  by  four  inch  posts  may  be  placed  in  the  centre 

[  205  I 


FRESH  AIR 


of  the  floor,  and  rafters  laid  from  both  side  posts  to  the 
centre  row,  and  then  covered  with  wire  netting.  When 
the  entire  space  is  inclosed  in  this  way  a  safer  playground 
is  made,  for  children  with  an  adventurous  spirit  cannot 
climb  up  over  the  sides.  The  supports  can  also  be  used 
for  light  swings  and  other  gymnasium  equipment,  and  the 
netting  may  be  used  to  hold  up  canvas  curtains  for  pro- 
tecting the  playground  during  wet  weather. 

When  it  is  not  necessary  to  build  in  the  most  economical 


B^S 

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No.  126. — A  well  built  playground  entirely  inclosed  with  large  mesli  wire 

netting.     {Courtesy  of  Dr.  W.  P.  Northrup.) 

[  206  1 


ROOF  PLAYGROUNDS  FOR  CHILDREN 


No.  127. — A  large,  well  protected  playground  on  the  roof  of  a  New  York  City 
settlement  house.     {Courtesy  0/  the  Playground  and  Recreation  Association.) 


manner  an  iron  fence  may  be  used,  and  if  it  is  desirable  to 
inclose  the  entire  playground,  a  steel  framework  as  shown 
in  Illustrations  Nos.  119,  126,  and  127  should  be  erected 
over  it,  and  wire  netting  attached  to  the  frame. 

There  are  various  methods  of  laying  floors  for  a  play- 
ground. If  a  cheap  board  floor  as  described  above  is  used, 
care  must  be  taken  to  protect  the  boards  in  order  to  pre- 
vent deterioration  by  the  weather.  This  can  be  done  by 
oiling  the  boards  occasionally  or  by  painting  the  floor  once 

f  207  1 


FRESH  AIR 


or  twice  during  the  year.  Another  flooring,  which  is 
somewhat  more  expensive  but  wears  better,  is  made  by 
laying  narrow  floor  boards  about  one-quarter  of  an  inch 
apart  and  rounding  the  edge  of  each  board.  This  manner 
of  laying  the  boards  helps  to  prevent  the  flooring  from  be- 
coming uneven  through  warping  and  curling,  but  these 
floors  also  need  either  oil  or  paint  for  protection. 

If  a  permanent  fireproof  playground  is  to  be  constructed, 
the  roofing  material  of  the  building  upon  which  it  is  to  rest 
should  be  removed  and  a  reinforced  concrete  floor  laid  in 
its  place,  with  an  upper  finish  of  one  of  the  composition 
cement  floorings  or  of  tile. 

Many  playgrounds  are  entirely  open  to  the  weather, 
but  if  children  are  to  use  them  during  all  seasons  of  the 
year,  a  shelter  under  which  they  can  play  during  rainy 
weather  is  desirable.  A  temporary  shelter  can  be  made 
as  described  above,  with  canvas  curtains  spread  over  wire 
netting  or  a  permanent  shelter  erected  with  an  iron  frame- 
work covered  by  corrugated  iron  sheets.  In  some  situa- 
tions the  walls  of  the  building  may  be  carried  up  at  one 
corner  of  the  playground,  preferably  on  the  north  and 
west  side,  and  an  ordinary  roof  of  the  same  material  as 
that  used  in  the  building  upon  which  the  playground  rests 
laid  over  the  corner  protected  by  these  walls. 


208 


CHAPTER  XII 
Clothing,  Bedding-,  and  Furniture 

Why  Some  Fabrics  are  Warmer  than  Others 

ONE  of  the  principal  purposes  of  clothing  is  to  pro- 
tect the  body  when  the  temperature  of  the  atmos- 
phere is  low.  "Warm"  garments  do  not  produce  heat, 
but  to  a  certain  degree  possess  the  property  of  retaining 
it.  Heat  is  continually  thrown  off  from  the  body  and 
clothes  act  only  as  an  obstacle  to  its  escape. 

The  property  in  various  fabrics  of  absorbing  or  removing 
the  moisture  excreted  by  the  skin  and  transferring  it  to 
the  air  largely  determines  the  value  of  the  warmth  pro- 
ducing qualities  of  clothes.  Garments  which  soak  up  and 
retain  water  soon  become  damp  from  perspiration  and 
lose  the  power  of  holding  heat,  as  damp  clothing  is  a  good 
conductor  of  heat. 

Small  open  spaces  in  the  weave  also  affect  the  warmth 
of  materials,  for  they  are  filled  by  air  which  is  a  poor  con- 
ductor of  heat.  Fabrics  with  rough  surfaces  are  generally 
warmer  than  those  that  are  smooth,  for  a  rough  surface 
stimulates  the  skin  and  increases  the  circulation  of  the 

[209  1 


FRESH  AIR 


blood.  The  warmth  of  clothing  also  depends  somewhat 
upon  the  color  of  the  garment,  as  black  and  dark  colors 
absorb  more  heat  from  external  sources  than  white  and 
lighter  shades. 

Materials  Used  for  Clothing 

Garments  are  generally  made  of  either  cotton  and  linen 
derived  from  the  vegetable  kingdom,  or  wool  and  silk, 
irom  the  animal  kingdom. 

Cotton  is  durable,  does  not  shrink  in  washing,  is  a  poor 
absorbent  of  water,  and  rapidly  conducts  heat  away  from 
the  body. 

Linen  is  also  a  good  conductor  of  heat  and  a  poor  ab- 
sorbent of  moisture. 

Wool  is  an  extremely  poor  conductor  of  heat,  absorbs 
water  and  removes  it  rapidly. 

Silk  is  a  non-conductor  of  heat,  but  less  absorbent  than 
wool. 

As  moisture  from  perspiration  is  quickly  removed  by 
wool,  underclothes  made  from  this  fabric  give  the  best 
protection  to  the  body  and  are  warm  and  dry  even  after 
exercise. 

Ordinary  cotton  is  not  a  good  material  for  undergar- 
ments for  it  soaks  up  the  perspiration  and  becomes  wet. 
But  it  has  some  advantages  as  it  is  cleanly,  does  not  irri- 
tate the  skin,  and  shrinks  less  than  wool.  A  fabric  which 
becomes  wet  after  profuse  sweating  chills  the  surface  of 
the  skin  and  may  lower  the  temperature  of  the  body  so  as 
to  be  dangerous  to  the  health.     It  is  possible  now,  how- 

[2101 


CLOTHING,  BEDDING,  AND  FURNITURE 


ever,  to  obtain  winter  underclothing  made  of  cotton  which 
has  about  the  same  absorbent  power  as  wool  and  none  of 
its  disadvantages. 

Weight  of  Clothing 

As  materials  obtained  from  animals  hold  heat  better 
than  those  from  vegetable  substances,  it  can  readily  be 
seen  that  thick  and  heavy  clothing  does  not  necessarily 
give  the  best  protection  to  the  body.  It  is  a  fact  that 
garments  made  of  non-conducting  light  materials  are 
more  comfortable,  hygienic,  and  warmer  than  heavy 
clothing  of  other  fabrics,  and  there  is  always  the  danger 
that  heavy  covering  on  the  body  will  induce  sweating  and 
cause  the  individual  to  throw  off  a  portion  of  the  weight 
at  a  time  when  the  body  can  easily  be  chilled. 

In  hot  weather,  clothing  should  be  as  light  and  loose  as 
practical  so  as  not  to  interfere  with  the  ventilation  of  the 
skin,  and  when  the  external  temperature  is  higher  than 
that  of  the  body  only  white  or  very  light  colored  materials 
should  be  used. 

Clothing  for  Open-air  Life 

Clothing,  particularly  when  intended  for  open-air  life, 
must  give  proper  protection  to  the  body  against  the  wind 
and  be  of  such  material  and  color  as  will  best  hold  the 
air  over  the  surface  of  the  skin  at  a  uniform  temperature. 
The  various  garments  should  interfere  as  little  as  possible 
witli  the  fiirK-lion  of  the  skin,  and  should  not  have  an 
irritating  efiect  upon  it,  nor  produce  injurious  pressure  on 

[2111 


FRESH  AIR 


No.  128. — Fresh-air  babies;   a  way  of  dressing  and  protecting  little  children 
in  cold  weather.     {Courtesy  of  Dr.   W.   P.   Northrup.) 


212 


CLOTHING,  BEDDING,  AND  FURNITURE 

any  part  of  the  body.  Children  should  be  clothed  in 
woolen  materials  and  their  legs,  arms,  neck,  and  chest  as 
well  protected  as  other  parts  of  the  body  (see  Illustration 
No.  128)  for  they  lose  heat  rapidly  and  are  easily  chilled. 
This  is  because  of  the  rapid  circulation  of  the  blood  in 
youth,  and  because  the  surface  of  their  bodies  is  larger  in 
proportion  to  its  bulk  than  that  of  the  adult. 

The  clothing  selected  for  protection  when  sitting  in  a 
reclining  chair  out  of  doors  should  be  of  light  weight  but 
warm.  For  winter  weather  medium  weight  underclothes 
of  wool  or  linen  mesh  should  be  worn  next  to  the  skin  and 
over  these  a  sweater  which  buttons  in  front.  The  or- 
dinary weight  street  clothing  covered  by  a  fur  coat  com- 
plete the  outfit.  A  fur  coat  is  a  necessity  as  even  the 
cheapest  of  skins  is  the  warmest  material  obtainable  for 
an  outer  garment.  A  new  fur  coat  can  be  purchased  for 
twelve  or  fifteen  dollars,  or  a  canvas  coat  lined  with  sheep- 
skin can  be  bought  for  even  less  and  gives  the  same  pro- 
tection. The  sleeves  of  a  fur  coat  should  be  lined  with 
fur  and  closed  at  the  bottom  with  an  elastic  string. 

Leather  leggings  and  woolen  tights  may  be  used  as  extra 
garments  and  are  a  great  comfort  when  taking  exercise 
on  cold  days.  Leather  coats  are  suitable  for  very  cold 
and  stormy  weather  as  the  wind  cannot  penetrate  through 
them.. 

In  very  cold  weather  and  on  windy  days  extra  wraps 
should  always  be  at  hand  for  the  use  of  those  sitting  out  of 
doors.  The  chair  should  be  placed  in  a  sheltered  position 
out  of  the  wind  and  care  taken  to  wrap  up  warmly  as 

I  213  I 


FRESH  AIR 


No.  129. — How  to  wrap  up  warmly  for  sitting  out  of  doors.  First,  place  a  rug 
or  comfortable  on  the  chair,  and  then  over  this  a  double  blanket  extended  full 
length,  allowing  the  free  end  to  rest  on  the  floor. 

shown  in  Illustrations  Nos.  129  and  130.  For  extra  pro- 
tection against  the  wind  there  can  be  purchased  a  very 
cheap  hooded  cape  made  of  quilted  crinkled  fibre  paper 
which  protects  the  shoulders,  back,  and  sides  of  the  head. 
It  fits  snugly  around  the  neck,  is  a  non-conductor  of  heat, 
and  forms  a  good  wind  shield. 

[  214  1 


CLOTHING,  BEDDING,  AND  FURNITURE 

How  to  Protect  the  Hands 

Those  who  wish  to  use  their  hands  in  writing  or  other 
work  while  sitting  out  of  doors  in  cold  weather  should 
wear  thin,  well  fitting  cotton  gloves,  covered  by  knitted 
woolen  gloves,  with  the  ends  of  the  fingers  and  thumbs 
cut  off  and  bound  to  prevent  unraveling.  For  ordinary- 
weather  and  when  not  at  work  the  hands  can  be  protected 


No.  130. — How  to  wrap  up  warmly  for  sitting  out  of  doors.  Second,  after 
seating  yourself,  draw  up  tFie  fnse  end  of  the  blanket,  tuck  it  in  at  the  sides,  and 
spread  a  steamer  rug  over  all. 

[215  1 


FRESH  AIR 


No.  131. — Foot  warmers  made  of  sheepskin  and  lined  with  a  fluffy  fleece, 
which  can  be  sUpped  over  regular  shoes.     {Courtesy  of  W.  C.  Leonard  &  Co.) 


by  heavy  fur  gloves  or  woolen  mittens  with  long  woolen 
wristlets.  Never  use  tight  gloves  of  any  kind  in  cold 
weather,  or  tight  sleeves  with  pressure  under  the  shoulder 

[2161 


CLOTHING,  BEDDING,  AND  FURNITURE 

joint,  as  they  restrict  the  circulation  of  the  blood  and 
cause  the  hands  to  grow  cold. 

How  to  Protect  the  Feet 

The  amount  of  protection  necessary  to  keep  the  feet 
warm  in  cold  weather  varies  greatly  with  the  individual. 
Some  require  only  woolen  stockings  and  loose,  comfortable 
shoes,  with  a  pair  of  ordinary  rubbers  or  high  arctics  when 
there  is  rain  or  snow.  Others  cannot  wear  woolen  stock- 
ings next  to  the  skin,  but  must  use  cotton  or  lisle  thread 
under  them.  Men  often  put  their  trousers  inside  their 
arctics  or  wear  leggings.  When  these  means  are  not  suffi- 
cient to  keep  the  feet  from  becoming  cold,  felt  shoes  should 
be  tried.  Sheepskin  moccasins  (see  Illustration  No.  131) 
made  from  selected  skins  with  the  natural  wool  on  the  in- 
side, or  soft  leather  shoes  covered  by  large  fur-lined  leather 
shoes  are  very  warm  and  comfortable.  Many  persons 
use  hot  water  bags  and  soapstones  to  keep  the  feet  warm 
but  they  are  not  very  satisfactory  for  continuous  use  as 
they  may  cause  chilblains. 

Foot-muffs  made  of  fur  or  of  cotton  quilts  sewed  up  like 
a  bag  can  be  made  or  purchased,  and  for  very  cold  days 
when  sitting  out  the  muff  can  be  placed  in  a  wooden  soap- 
box with  hot  bricks  beside  it  and  newspapers  wrapped 
about  it,  to  fill  in  the  empty  space.  Home-made  foot- 
muffs  should  be  about  two  feet  square  and  shaped  like  a 
bag  into  which  the  feet  can  be  thrust.  They  are  usually 
made  of  five  or  six  alternate  layers  of  cotton  batting  and 
newspapers,  are  lined  with  outing  flannel,  and  covered  on 

[  217  I 


FRESH  AIR 


No.   132. — A  home-made  shoulder  cape  made 
from  a  rectangular  piece  of  flannel. 

the  outside  with  canvas.  All  foot  covering  should  be 
loose,  and  suspenders  used  instead  of  circular  elastic 
garters,  as  tight  shoes  or  anything  which  restricts  the  cir- 
culation of  the  blood  causes  the  feet  to  grow  cold  quickly 
for  they  depend  upon  the  blood  for  their  temperature  and 
produce  but  little  heat  in  themselves. 

[2181 


CLOTHING,  BEDDING,  AND  FURNITURE 


Clothing  for  Outdoor  Sleeping 

When  sleeping  out  of  doors  on  very  cold  nights,  it  is 
necessary  to  dress  for  bed.  Various  methods  are  used  in 
order  to  sleep  in  comfort,  and  the  clothes  suggested  here 
should  be  tried  by  beginners,  although  after  a  little  ex- 
perience outdoor  sleepers  usually  devise  their  own  way  of 
dressing.  It  should  be  remembered  that  some  persons 
need  much  more  clothing  than  others,  and  it  is  wise  to  ex- 
periment until  a  comfortable  costume  is  found.  At  first, 
try  a  suit  of  warm  underwear,  with  pajamas  and  ordinary 
short  length  cotton  stockings  into  which  the  pa  jama  legs 
can  be  tucked ;  over  the  stockings  use  eiderdown  boots  or 
heavy  lumbermen's  socks,  and  protect  the  shoulders  with 
a  sweater  or  shoulder  cape  made  of  double-faced  eider- 
down. Those  who  do  not  like  pajamas  should  try  a  woolen 
undershirt,  a  sweater,  a  long 
outing  flannel  nightgown  or 
bathrobe,  and  knitted  slippers. 

A  shoulder  cape  like  the  one 
shown  in  Illustration  No.  132, 
may  be  made  in  five  minutes 
from  a  rectangular  piece  of  flan- 
nel or  a  half  yard  of  double-faced 
eiderdown.  Cut  the  cloth  to  be 
used  twenty  inches  wide  by 
thirty  inches  long,  and  fasten 
the  two  ends  of  each  of  the 
short  sides  together  with  a  stitch 
a  safety  pin;  then  sHp  the 
15  I  219  I 


or 


No.  133. — Open-air  sleeping 
hood  and  cape  of  shaker  flannel, 
held  in  place  by  elastic  bands. 
(Courleay  of  the  Cabinet  Manu- 
facturing Co.) 


FRESH  AIR 


arms  through  the  holes 
thus  made  and  pin  the 
upper  edge  around  the 
neck.  The  cap  shown 
with  this  cape  is  an  ordi- 
nary stocking  cap  or 
skating  toque  which  may 
be  knit  at  home. 


No.  134. — A  sleeping  hood  showing  the 
face  partially  exposed.  {Courtesy  of  the 
Vizor  Knitting  Co.) 


scalp  and  interferes  with 
the  circulation  of  the 
blood.  A  knitted  skull 
cap,  long  enough  to  be 
pulled  down  to  the  end 
of  the  nose  and  over  the 
ears,  gives  good  protec- 
tion; or  a  knitted  helmet 
covering  the  whole  of  the 
head,  face  and  neck,  with 
the  exception  of  a  small 
opening  for  the  nose  and 
mouth  can  be  used.  (See 
Illustrations  Nos.  134  and 


How    to   Protect   the 
Head 

The  head  covering 
should  be  light,  porous, 
and  without  a  tight  rim 
that    presses    upon    the 


No.  135. — A  sleeping  hood  closed  by  a 
shirr  string,  to  shield  the  entire  face  except 
the  nostrils. 
[220] 


CLOTHING,  BEDDING,  AND  FURNITURE 


135.)  A  hood  shaped  Hke  an  old-fashioned  sunbonnet  is 
also  very  warm  and  comfortable,  and  can  be  made  at 
home  from  eiderdown  or  outing  flannel  by  using  as  many 
thicknesses  of  the  material  as  may  be  needed.  It  should 
cover  the  head,  and  be  drawn  in  closely  around  the  neck 
with  a  wide  flare  over  the  shoulders,  and  it  can  be  held  in 
position  by  elastic  bands 
passing  under  the  arms. 
The  flare  of  the  hood 
should  have  a  draw-string 
at  the  edge,  which  can  be 
drawn  in  so  as  to  pucker 
the  cloth  over  the  face,  as 
is  shown  in  Illustration 
No.  133.  These  hoods 
and  capes  can  also  be 
made  of  light  weight  can- 
vas, lined  with  outing- 
flannel  or  eiderdown,  but 
care  must  be  taken  to  see 
that  they  are  well  fitted 
around  the  neck.  When 
lying  on  one  side  with 
the  face  on  a  pillow,  the  nose  usually  keeps  warm.  If  it 
grows  cold  when  lying  on  the  back,  draw  a  cap  down  over 
the  eyes  until  it  covers  the  nose,  or  use  a  small  piece  of 
flannel  to  cover  the  top,  held  by  elastic  bands  from  the  ears. 
Never  cover  the  head  with  the  bedclothes  or  allow  any  cloth 
to  interfere  with  the  inhaling  of  fresh  air.     If  the  breath, 

[221  1 


No.  136. — An  Angora  wool  cap  in  one 
piece,  very  light  and  warm,  arranged  to  be 
worn  either  as  a  helmet  or  cap.  {Courtesy 
of  W.  C.  Leonard  &  Co.) 


FRESH  AIR 


No.  137. — To  protect  the  head  from  drafts,  box  in  the  head  of  the 
bed  and  use  two  pillows  placed  in  the  form  of  an  inverted  V. 

as  it  is  expelled  from  the  nose  or  mouth,  comes  in  contact 
with  the  bedclothes  on  very  cold  nights  it  will  form  icicles. 
Chapping  of  the  face  during  the  night  can  be  prevented 
by  using  cold  cream  or  vaseline  about  the  nose  and  lips. 

[  222  ] 


CLOTHING,  BEDDING,  AND  FURNITURE 

Arrangement  of  Pillows 

Two  pillows  should  be  used  for  protection  and  comfort 
when  sleeping  out  of  doors  in  cold  weather.  Place  them 
in  the  form  of  an  inverted  V  with  the  apex  at  the  top  of  the 
bed.  The  head  should  rest  at  the  point  where  the  two 
pillows  meet.  This  position  allows  the  shoulders  to 
nestle  between  the  pillows,  and  protects  them  from  the 
cold  wind  which  will  otherwise  find  its  way  under  the  bed- 
clothes. The  head  of  the  bed  should  be  shielded  from  the 
wind  or  a  strong  draft  by  placing  it  close  to  the  protected 
end  of  the  shelter,  or  by  boarding  up  the  end  of  the  bed, 
as  is  shown  in  Illustration  No.  137.  This  can  also  be 
accomplished  by  covering  the  head  of  the  bed  with  a  can- 
vas hood,  supported  on  barrel  hoops  attached  to  the 
bedstead,  or  hung  by  a  rope  from  the  ceiling. 

The  Bed  and  Bedding  for  Outdoor  Sleepers 

An  ordinary  iron  bedstead,  three  feet  six  inches  wide, 
with  a  woven  wire  spring  and  a  moderately  thick  mattress 
are  generally  used  for  outdoor  sleeping.  (See  Illustra- 
tions Nos.  138,  139,  and  140.)  The  bedstead  should  be 
fitted  with  small  rubber-tired  wheels  or  large  castors  so 
that  it  can  be  rolled  about  easily.  A  good  hair  mattress 
is  most  desirable,  but  when  it  cannot  be  obtained,  a  vege- 
table fibre  mattress  with  a  cotton  top  can  be  bought  for 
as  low  as  four  dollars,  or  a  good  cotton  mattress,  for 
about  ten  dollars.  In  cold  weather  two  mattresses  with 
several  layers  of  newspaper  between  them  should  be  used 
to  prevent  the  heat  of  the  body  from  escaping  below. 

f  223  I 


FRESH  AIR 


No.  138. — A  simple,  steel  frame  bedstead  for  outdoor  sleep- 
ing, with  supports  for  a  mosquito  bar.  [Courtesy  of  Richardson, 
Wright  &  Co.) 

Persons  who  like  heavy  bed  covering  may  use  blankets, 
placing  as  many  layers  over  the  bed  as  desired  for  warmth. 
Those  who  cannot  stand  heavy  covering  can  use  down, 
lamb's  wool,  or  cotton-filled  comforts,  which  are  very  warm 
but  light.  These  can  be  purchased,  or  the  material  for 
wool  or  cotton  comforts  obtained,  for  about  two  dollars 
and  warm  satisfactory  covering  made  in  the  home. 

Paper  blankets  that  will  wear  fairly  well  can  be  pur- 
chased for  fifty  cents .     They  are  sanitary ,jClean,  and  whole- 

\  224  1 


CLOTHING,  BEDDING,  AND  FURNITURE 

some;  do  not  absorb  moisture  and  weigh  less  than  a  pound. 
The  soft  and  phable  variety  fold  compactly  and  can  be 
carried  by  travelers.  With  ordinary  care,  paper  blankets 
will  last  for  a  season  and  give  extraordinary  protection 
because  of  their  non-conducting  qualities.  They  can  also 
be  used  between  the  spring  and  mattress  to  protect  the 
bed  from  below.  The  edges  should  be  bound  with  tape 
to  give  them  better  wearing  qualities.  One  variety  is 
made  with  a  crinkled  fibre  and  weighs  about  one-half 
pound.  It  is  said  to  be  as  strong  and  pliable  as  cloth,  and 
being  crinkly,  does  not  allow  the  other  bedclothes  to  slip 
off.  Another  blanket  is  made  by  a  special  process  from 
fibrous  paper  and  has  a  soft  kid  finish  to  prevent  it  from 
slipping. 

A  warm  bed  cover  which  combines  the  softness  of  a 


Bd^^^i^a^^^^B^^^^S 

^^^^^^^^^^^s^^^^^^^^  iPP  « 

1 

No.  139. — A  bedstead  which  can  be  used  by  persons  who  wish  to  sleep  with 
their  head  outside  the  window.     (Courtesy  of  Richardson,  Wright  &  Co.) 

I  225  1  ' 


FRESH  AIR 


blanket  and  the  non-conducting  properties  of  paper  can 
be  made  at  home  by  using  a  large  pair  of  cotton  blankets 
and  filling  them  with  crepe  paper.  To  make  this,  take 
the  largest  pair  of  cotton  blankets  that  can  be  conveni- 
ently obtained,  a  box  of  crepe  paper  and  a  skein  of  yarn. 
Spread  out  one  of  the  blankets  on  a  large  table  or  the  floor, 
and  lay  the  crepe  paper  upon  it,  first  a  strip  lengthwise 
and  then  a  strip  crosswise,  making  a  thickness  of  five  or 
six  layers.  Place  the  top  blanket  over  the  paper  and  tuft 
with  the  yarn,  making  the  knots  about  four  inches  apart. 
The  paper  should  reach  from  top  to  bottom  and  to  the  full 
width  of  the  blanket  if  for  use  on  a  double  bed,  or  to  with- 
in six  or  eight  inches  of  the  sides  if  it  is  to  be  used  on  a 
single  bed.  A  very  cheap,  light,  and  warm  covering  with 
the  same  properties  can  be  made  with  newspaper  placed 
between  two  thicknesses  of  outing  flannel  and  then  quilted. 

The  Klondike  Bed 

This  is  a  method  of  arranging  the  bed  covers  to  form  a 
sleeping  bag  into  which  a  person  can  slide  from  the  upper 
end  of  the  bed,  the  idea  being  to  keep  the  cold  air  and 
wind  from  getting  under  the  blankets.  To  make  the 
Klondike  bed  (see  Illustration  No.  140),  place  over  the 
mattress  an  old  blanket  or  a  cotton  bed  pad  of  the  same 
width  as  the  mattress,  and  on  this,  ordinary  bed  sheets  or 
blanket  sheets.  Make  the  bed  in  the  usual  way,  allowing 
its  covers  to  fall  loose  on  every  side.  Then  gather  up  the 
coverings  on  one  side  and  pass  them  beneath  the  pad  to 
the  centre  of  the  bed,  and  follow  this  by  doing  the  same  on 

[  226  1 


CLOTHING,  BEDDING,  AND  FURNITURE 


No.  140. — The  Klondike  Bed.  To  make  a  sleeping  bag  with  the  bedclothes; 
first,  tuck  all  the  covers  except  the  outside  blanket  under  a  bed  pad  and  then 
tuck  the  top  cover  under  the  mattress. 

[227  J 


FRESH  AIR 


the  opposite  side  and  at  the  foot  of  the  bed.  The  entire 
bed  is  last  covered  by  a  heavy  blanket  or  quilt  which  is 
tucked  in  under  the  mattress. 

Another  method  of  making  a  sleeping  bag  from  bed- 
clothing  is  to  place  two  heavy  blankets,  one  on  top  of  the 
other,  full  width  across  the  mattress  with  half  of  each 
blanket  extending  over  the  opposite  sides  of  the  bed  on  to 
the  floor.  On  the  top  of  the  blankets  resting  on  the  bed 
lay  lengthwise  a  thin,  washable,  double  blanket  as  a  bed 
sheet.  Cover  this  with  two  or  three  heavy  double  blan- 
kets also  lengthwise,  allowing  sufficient  material  at  the 
bottom  to  tuck  in  well.  Then  fold  over  the  bed  the  flaps 
of  the  two  blankets  placed  crosswise  and  tuck  in  at  the 
opposite  sides.  A  bed  made  in  this  way  cannot  be  easily 
disarranged  but  must  be  entered  by  sliding  in  at  the  top. 

Damp  Bedclothes 

Care  should  be  taken  before  retiring  when  sleeping  out- 
doors, to  see  that  the  bedclothes  are  not  damp.  All  cloth- 
ing is  used  in  order  to  prevent  the  loss  of  heat  from  the 
body,  and  should  therefore  be  non-conducting  as  far  as 
possible.  Bedclothes  like  garments,  when  damp  lose 
the  property  of  holding  the  natural  heat  of  the  body,  which 
if  allowed  to  escape,  may  produce  a  chill  which  is  dangerous 
and  often  causes  illness.  A  woolen  horse  blanket  with  an 
outside  canvas  cover  can  be  used  to  protect  the  bedding 
in  wet  and  stormy  weather. 

In  cold  weather,  the  outdoor  sleeper  should,  if  possible, 
get  into  the  bed  in  a  warm  room,  and  have  some  one  roll  him 

f  228  1 


CLOTHING,  BEDDING,  AND  FURNITURE 


'~imETi^' 


No.  141. — The  Robin  Hood  sleeping  bag  can  be  opened  when  making  the 
bed,  and  has  an  umbrella  attachment  for  protecting  the  head. 


out  of  doors.  When  this  cannot  be  done,  use  a  warm  dress- 
ing-gown in  going  back  and  forth  from  the  dressing-room 
to  the  porch,  and  warm  the  bed  by  placing  in  it  for  a  few 
minutes  before  retiring,  a  hot  water  bag,  hot  bricks,  soap- 
stones  or  bottles  filled  with  hot  water.    In  some  instances, 

I  229  I 


FRESH  AIR 


it  is  well  to  leave  a  hot  stone  or  bottle  wrapped  in  flannel 
at  one  corner  of  the  bed  where  it  will  throw  off  heat  slowly 
during  the  night. 

Sleeping  Bags 

In  very  severe  weather,  sleeping  bags  are  used  by  those 
who  are  very  susceptible  to  the  cold.  These  bags  can  be 
bought  for  about  fifteen  dollars  or  can  be  made  at  home  by 
sewing  blankets  together  around  three  sides  and  leaving 
the  top  open.  Sleeping  bags  when  properly  made  give 
much  more  protection,  and  hold  the  heat  of  the  body  far 
better  than  a  loose  bed  covering,  and  they  are  also  adapted 
for  use  in  moderate  weather  as  well  as  for  intense  cold. 
They  should  be  both  moisture  and  wind  proof,  but  made  so 
that  they  can  be  aired,  washed,  and  dried  easily. 

The  Robin  Hood  Sleeping  Bag 

The  sleeping  bag,  shown  in  Illustration  No.  141,  is 
made  of  a  brown,  pliable,  waterproof  Belgian  canvas,  and 
can  easily  be  folded  and  carried  about.  The  sides  form  a 
box  to  hold  and  protect  a  mattress,  blankets,  and  a  pillow, 
and  the  sides  are  fastened  together  by  means  of  snaps  and 
rings  in  the  outer  edge.  A  long  flap  which  is  sewed  to  the 
bottom  of  the  body  of  the  bag  can  be  drawn  up  over  the 
head  and  arranged  to  form  a  canopy  or  hood.  This  is 
supported  by  a  rod  which  may  be  adjusted  to  any  angle, 
and  is  held  in  place  by  a  strap  with  a  buckle  fastened  from 
the  lower  border  of  the  body  of  the  bag. 

[2301 


CLOTHING,  BEDDING,  AND  FURNITURE 


No.  142. — Sleeping  bags  made  of  heavy  woolen  cloth  prevent 
the  wind  from  finding  its  way  under  the  bedclothes.  {Courtesy 
of  F.  C.  Huyck  &  Sons.) 


The  Kenwood  Sleeping  Bag 

The  Kenwood  bags  (see  Illustration  No.  142)  are  made 
with  heavy  waterproof  canvas  covers,  strongly  sewed  to- 
gether, and  fitted  with  a  flap  or  fly  around  the  top,  which 
acts  as  a  windbreak  and  as  an  extra  protection  against 
rain.  Inside  the  canvas  is  a  thick,  strong,  woolen  bag, 
having  a  nap  on  each  side,  and  within  the  woolen  bag  is 
still  another  of  softer  material.     The  combination  of  the 

[  231  ] 


FRESH  AIR 


three  bags  with  the  air  space  between  gives  warmth,  and 
each  one  can  be  removed,  aired,  washed,  and  quickly  dried. 

A  Baby's  Sleeping  Bag 

A  bag  with  a  cap,  for  the  protection  of  babies  and  young 
children  when  sleeping  out  of  doors,  has  been  designed  by 
Mrs.  J.  A.  Rawson,  Jr.,  and  can  easily  be  made  at  home. 
This  bag  is  twenty-six  inches  wide  by  forty-six  inches  long. 
The  outer  cover  is  of  woolen  material  and  the  inner  lining 
of  a  softer  fabric,  with  a  layer  of  cotton  batting  between 
them.     To  make  the  bag: 

1.  Lay  out  the  inner  and  outer  cover  with  the  cotton 
batting  between,  and  close  the  edges  all  around  with  a  slip 
stitch. 

2.  Close  the  front  at  the  bottom  by  turning  up  the 
lower  edge  for  eight  inches  and  sewing  it  up  at  the  sides. 

3.  Find  the  centre  of  the  top  of  the  bag  and  measure 
three  inches  each  way. 

4.  From  these  points  measure  twelve  inches  further  in 
each  direction,  and  fold  the  material  forward  toward  the 
centre,  sewing  the  top  from  the  twelve-inch  point  to  the 
one  near  the  centre.  The  corners  thus  formed  cover  the 
shoulders,  and  the  six-inch  space  in  the  centre  is  for  the 
head  where  the  cap  is  attached.  The  remaining  length 
forms  double-breasted  flaps,  which  may  either  be  buttoned 
or  fastened  with  heavy  safety  pins. 

The  cap  is  made  from  a  piece  of  cloth  nine  inches  wide 
by  eighteen  inches  long,  folded  crosswise.  Sew  a  seam 
across  the  top  from  the  fold  to  the  outer  edge,  turn  the 

f  232  1 


CLOTHING,  BEDDING,  AND  FURNITURE 


No.  143. — An  ordinary  clothes-basket  lined  with  cotton  or  wool  is  a  good 
safe  crib  for  the  baby's  outdoor  nap.     {Courtesy  of  Dr.  W.  P.  Northrup.) 


cloth  .so  that  the  seam  forms  the  centre  of  the  back,  and 
from  the  bottom  end  of  this  seam  measure  three  inches  in 
each  direction,  and  connect  the  edge  between  these  points 
on  the  cap  to  the  six-inch  space  at  the  centre  of  the  bag, 
and  sew  together.     The  projecting  parts  thus  left  on  the 

[2331 


FEESH  Am 


No.  Hi. — Make  an  inclosure  around  a  mattress  with  a  tennis  net  for  baby's 
fresh-air  life  in  warm  weather.     {Courtesy  of  Dr.  W.  P.  Xorthrup.) 


cap  may  be  turned  forward  for  protection  over  the  face,  or 
rolled  back  as  desired.  Fasten  tapes  at  the  neck,  and  the 
bag  is  complete. 


The  Providence  Bag 

This  is  a  cheap  bag  (see  Illustration  Xo.  145)  which  is 
used  both  as  a  sleeping  bag  and  for  protection  in  sitting 

[2341 


CLOTHING,  BEDDING,  AND  FURNITURE 

out  of  doors  during  cold  and  windy  days.  It  can  be 
made  at  home  and  the  material  will  cost  about  two  dollars. 
The  bag  should  be  about  six  feet  long  by  two  feet  wide,  and 
the  inner  lining  and  outer  cover  of  outing  flannel  or  some 
woolen  material.  Before  sewing  up  the  sides,  lay  the  cloth 
for  the  lining  out  fl-at,  cover  this  with  a  layer  of  cotton 


No.  145. — A    Pro\-idence   sitting-out  bag  made  of 
alternate  layers  of  flannel  and  newspapers. 


batting,  seven  layers  of  newspaper,  a  second  layer  of  cotton 
batting,  and  then  the  cloth  for  the  outside  cover.  These 
should  all  be  ciuilted  together  and  the  sides  sewed  up. 
One  side  may  be  left  open  for  a  short  distance  and  fastened 
with  tapes,  as  this  arrangement  makes  it  easier  to  get  into 
the  bag. 

16  f  235  1 


FRESH  AIR 


Furniture  for  Fresh-air  Apartments 

Furniture  to  be  used  in  the  open  air  should  be  made  of 
material  which  is  not  affected  by  moisture.  It  should  be 
as  light  as  possible  and  free  from  unnecessary  ornamenta- 
tion so  as  not  to  catch  and  hold  dust,  and  the  heavy  articles 
placed  on  castors  so  that  they  can  be  easily  moved  about 
and  cleaned  on  all  sides. 


No.  146. — A  swinging  canvas  bed  can  be  used  for  outdoor  sleeping. 

Upholstered  furniture,  except  when  covered  with  leather, 
is  not  desirable,  but  if  used  should  be  provided  with  re- 
movable covers  which  can  be  laundered.  Mattresses, 
pillows,  extra  couch  and  chair  cushions,  should  also  have 

[23G1 


CLOTHING,  BEDDING,  AND  FURNITURE 

outside  covers  that  can  easily  be  removed  and  washed. 
Carpets,  mats,  curtains,  and  other  hangings  should  all  be 
of  washable  material.  Carpets  should  not  be  tacked  down 
but  be  made  in  the  form  of  rugs  or  strips  which  can  be 
easily  hung  up  and  dried.  There  should  be  a  free  margin 
around  the  entire  room.  Hairy  mats  and  carpets  with 
heavy  nap  catch  large  quantities  of  dust  and  are  not  suit- 
able for  this  purpose,  but  floor  coverings  of  grass  matting 


No.  147. — A  wooden  frame  reclining  cliair,  with  a  reading 
board  and  foot  rest,  which  can  be  easily  adjusted  to  various 
positions.     {Courtesy  of  W.  C.  Leonard  &  Co.) 

are  very  good,  or  small  domestic  or  oriental  rugs  which 
can  be  easily  washed. 

The  furniture  should  consist  of  an  iron  frame  bed,  a 
bureau,  washstand,  and  table,  finished  with  enameled  paint. 
If  pictures  are  used  on  the  walls  for  decoration  they  should 
be  framed  with  a  smooth  frame  and  sealed  on  the  back 
with  waterproof  paper.     Elaborate  picture  frames  and 

f  237  I 


FRESH  AIR 


No.  148. — Tlie  "Adirondack  Recliner,"  an  easily  adjusted,  comfortable  chair 
for  sitting  out  in  the  open  air,  and  especially  adapted  for  invalids. 


intricate  ornaments  are  unsuitable  for  open  apartments. 
Durable  chairs  and  tables  for  open  buildings  are  made  of 
willow,  wicker,  reed,  woven  grass,  or  rattan.  The  or- 
dinary kitchen  chair,  with  a  coat  of  stain  or  white  enamel, 
is  also  satisfactory.  Rustic  hickory  furniture,  made  of 
young  saplings  to  form  the  frameworks  and  woven  strips 
of  inside  bark  for  the  seats  and  backs,  are  especially  appro- 
priate for  this  use.  Bent  wood  cane  chairs  and  adjustable 
iron  frame  and  cane  couches,  with  removable  foot  pieces 
which  can  be  converted  into  chairs,  are  convenient  for 
open  verandas. 

[2381 


CLOTHING,  BEDDING,  AND  FURNITURE 

An  easy-chair  is  a  great  comfort  to  those  sitting  out 
during  the  day.  A  steamer  chair  is  easily  obtained  and 
gives  good  service.  The  canvas  variety  with  a  wooden 
frame  can  be  bought  for  one  dollar  or  the  cane-seat  ex- 
tension chair  for  three  dollars.  A  more  durable  chair 
with  an  iron  frame,  which  can  be  transported  and  used  in 
a  rough  manner  without  danger  of  breakage,  is  made  for 
this  purpose  and  can  be  bought  for  twenty -five  dollars. 

When  sitting  out  on  cold  days,  the  chair  must  be  covered 


\(j.  IM).  A  lent  ('(jL  which  can  bo  used  I'or  camping,  .slcc]jing  on  a  roof,  or 
in  other  positions  where  it  is  not  convenient  to  erect  a  fresh-air  shelter. 
{Couiieny  of  the  FAilerprise  Bed  Co.) 

I  239  1 


FRESH  AIR 


No.  150. — A  combined  tent  and  couch  large  enough  for  two  persons. 
Portable  and  convenient  for  outdoor  sleeping  purposes.  {Courtesy  of  the 
Corona  Manufacturing  Co.) 


with  a  pad  of  some  thick,  closely  woven,  warm  material  to 
prevent  cold  currents  of  air  coming  up  from  below.  A 
fur  rug  is  also  good  for  the  purpose,  or  several  layers  of 
blankets  with  newspapers  between  them.  A  person 
sitting  out  of  doors  should  have  a  table  handy  on  which 
to  keep  books  and  other  things  used  for  amusement  or 
work.  An  adjustable  table,  the  top  of  which  can  be  swung 
before  or  away  from  a  chair  or  bed,  is  a  great  convenience 

[240  1 


CLOTHING,  BEDDING,  AND  FURNITURE 

and  can  be  used  as  a  book-rest  when  the  hands  are  under 
cover. 

The  Tent  Cot 

A  tent  cot  (see  Illustrations  Nos.  149  and  150)  is  a  com- 
bination outdoor  bed  and  shelter  for  temporary  use,  and 
is  a  convenient  contrivance  for  experimenting  in  open-air 
sleeping.  It  consists  of  a  simple  canvas  cot  to  which  a 
frame  is  attached,  supporting  a  small  tent  for  protection 
against  the  weather.  It  has  many  advantages  for  it  can 
be  quickly  taken  apart,  folded,  stowed  away,  or  trans- 
ported, and  as  it  is  light,  weighing  only  from  twenty-five 
to  fifty  pounds,  it  can  be  moved  for  short  distances,  and 
its  position  and  exposure  changed  without  being  taken 
apart. 


[241 


Index 


Aerium,  outside  window  tent,  37 

Aerolo  window  tent,  35 

Air, 

circulation  of,  99 

danger  of  overheated,  19 

foul,  20 

entrance  of,  30 

warmed  by  convection,  24 
Alcove,  Dr.  Paquin's,  101 
Allen  window  tent,  29,  31 
Angle  of  house, 

loggia  in,  91 

porch  in,  93 
Apartments, 

flushing  with  air,  23 

for  the  sick,  168 

furnishing,  236 
Asbestos  shingles,  153 
Atmosphere,  19,  20 
Awnings,  38,  40 


B 

Babies'  sleeping  bag,  232 
Balconies  for  tenements,  60,  63 
Base  for  tents,  133 
Bathrooms, 

prevent  freezing  of,  176 

ventilation  of,  167 
Battens,  151 
Beaver  Boarfl,  153 
Bed, 

covering,  224 

Dr.  Dunham's,  38,  225 

for  outdfjor  sleeping,  223 

Klonflike,  22G 

screening  of,  113 


Bed, 

swinging,  236 

warming  the,  229 
Bedclothes,  damp,  228 
Bedding,  209,  223 
Bedrooms, 

servants',  167 

size  of,  167 

ventilation  of,  24,  167 
Bedsheets  for  window  tents,  26 
Bedsteads,  223 
Biggs  tent  house,  135 
Blankets,  224 

Brackets  for  porches,  71,  77,  78,  80 
Brick  for  cottages,  153 
Brick  house  with  porch,  179 
Bungalows, 

construction  of,  45,  147 

floors  of,  154 

foundations  of,  147 

interior  of,  151 

material  for,  45,  52,  145,  153 

on  roofs,  41 

open  air,  145 

roofs  of,  153 

walls  of,  150 
Burlap  for  finish,  151 
Buttons  for  curtains,  107 


Canopies  for  beds,  112,  115 
Canvas  beds,  swinging,  236 
Canvas  coats,  213 

Canvas  curtains,  49,  60,  73,  80,  91, 105, 
107,  206 

arrangement  of,  107 

buckles  for,  102 

buttons  for,  107 


[243 


INDEX 


Canvas  curtains. 

Cost  of  house,  176 

for  roof  playgrounds,  206 

Cottages, 

for  strong  winds,  107 

construction  of,  147 

iron  rods  for,  106 

floors  of,  154 

manipulation  of,  104 

foundations  of,  147 

putting  up,  107 

interior  of,  151 

Canvas  doors,  123 

lean-to  type  of,  159 

Caps,  220 

material  for,  145,  153 

Carey's,  Dr.,  porch,  75 

open  air,  145 

Carpets,  237 

piers  for,  148 

Cedar  posts,  148 

roofs  of,  153 

Cellars,  167 

summer-house  type  of,  157 

Cement,  153 

walls  of,  150 

Chairs,  237,  239 

Cotton  filled  comforts,  224 

Cheesecloth,  114 

Cotton  garments,  210 

Children's  playgrounds,  196 

Country  house. 

Circulation  of  air,  99 

cost  of,  176 

Clapboards,  151 

for  open  air  life,  173 

Clauson's  Mr.,  screen.  111 

plan  for,  175 

Closets,  treatment  of,  169 

Curtains, 

Clothing,  209 

canvas,  49,  60,  73,  80,  91,105,  107, 

for  children,  213 

206 

for  cold  weather,  211 

Japanese,  107,  109,  110 

for  open  air  life,  211 

for  outdoor  sleeping,  219 

D 

for  warm  weather,  211 

Decorations,  237 

material  for,  210 

Dining  rooms,  174,  183,  184,  191 

weight  of,  211 

Draft,  cross,  21 

Cloth  netting,  113 

Draining  open  rooms,  195 

Cloth  screens.  111 

Dunham's,  Dr.,  bed,  38,  225 

Cold  weather  protection,  99,  105 

Colored  netting,  113 

E 

Comforts, 

cotton  filled,  224 

Exposure  of  shelters,  43 

paper  filled,  226 

Extensions,  89,  90,  94 

wool  filled,  224 

European  loggias,  65,  66 

Concrete  floors,  43,  208 

F 

Construction, 

of  bungalows,  45,  147 

Fabrics  for  clothing,  209 

of  cottages,  147 

Face,  protection  for,  220 

of  loggias,  83,  91,  183,  185,  191,  195 

Farlin  window  tent,  35 

of  open  rooms,  84,  87,  89,  90,  93,  97, 

Farmhouse,  New  England,  89 

177,  182,  190,  195 

Feet,  protection  for,  217 

of  roof  playgrounds,  200,  204 

Fences  for  playgrovmds,  207 

of  tent  houses,  137,  143 

Fire  laws,  60,  200 

Corner  room,  83 

Fisher's,  Dr.,  tent,  123 

Cornice  of  house,  82,  94 

Floor  covering,  237 

244 


INDEX 


Floors, 

Gases,  21 

construction  of,  42,  67, 

79,  83 

97, 

Glass  and  sash,  84,  99,  101, 

105,  179, 

125,  130,  154,  167 

183,  187,  189,  191 

for  playgrounds,  208 

Gloves,  215 

for  tent  houses,  140 

Grass  matting,  237 

of  houses,  167 

Gratings,  41 

over  roofing,  41 

Folding  wall  house,  56,  59 

H 

Foot  mufiFs,  217 

Foot  warmers,  216,  217 

Hammocks,  236 

Foundations, 

Hands,  protection  for,  215 

for  bimgalows,  147 

Head,  protection  for,  220 

for  cottages,  147 

Heat, 

of  houses,  167 

absorption  of,  24 

Frame  buildings,  52,  145 

from  gas  burners,  20 

Frames, 

from  human  body,  19 

fornetting,  112, 114, 115 

118 

from  lamps,  20 

for  tents,  125,  132 

Hip  roof , 

wheels  for,  101 

for  bungalows,  153 

French  doors,  181 

for  cottages,  153 

French  windows,  25 

Hollow  tile. 

Fresh  air. 

for  bungalows,  44,  45,  145 

for  children,  196,  198 

for  cottages,  44,  45,  145 

in  dweUings,  19 

Hoods,  220 

need  for,  19 

Hoops  for  netting,  115 

Fresh  air  rooms,  81,  84,  87, 

89,90 

,94, 

House, 

171,  173,  177,  182,  184 

,  190, 

194 

brick,  179,  181 

furniture  for,  236 

concrete,  173 

glazed  sash  for,  84,  99, 101, 179, 

183, 

frame,  171,  172,  177,  182, 

184,  186, 

187,  189,  191 

190,  194 

on  seashore  house,  97 

log,  162,  192 

planning  of,  171 

turn-table,  160 

Fresh  air  shelters,  44,  46, 

47,  50, 

51, 

with  four  open  rooms,  190 

158,  159 

with  outdoor  dining  room. 

174,  183, 

Front  entrance,  87 

184,  191 

Fur  coats,  213 

with  small  sleeping  porch 

186 

Furniture, 

with  two  open  rooms,  177, 

194 

for  open  rooms,  236 

with  wing  of  open  rooms. 

182,  195 

for  verandas,  236,  238 

Houses, 

rattan,  238 

bathrooms  in,  167,  168 

willow,  238 

bedrooms  of,  167 
cellars  of,  167 
floors  for,  154,  167 

G 

foundations  of,  167 

Galleries,  171 

in  trees,  163 

Gardner  tent,  128 

of  logs,  162 

Gas  burners,  20 

of  slabs,  162 

[245] 


INDEX 


Houses, 

planning  of,  165 

plumbing  in,  167 

sanitary  arrangement  of,  166 

sites  for,  165 

toilets  in,  167 
Human  body,  heat  of,  19 


Insects   111 

Insulation    of    walls,   177,   178,   182, 

185,  190 
Interior  Finish, 

Beaver  Board  for,  153 

colored  burlap  for,  151 

of  cottages,  151 

of  bungalows,  151 
Iron, 

corrugated,  for  shelters,  47 

rods  for  curtains,  106 

sheet,  for  shelters,  46 

sleeping  porches,  58,  60 


Japanese  curtains,  107,  109,  110 


K 

Kenwood  sleeping  bag,  231 
Kenyon  tent  house,  137 
Khaki,  for  window  tents,  35 
Kitchen  extension,  94 
Klondike  bed,  226 
Knopf's,  Dr., 

wall  house,  55,  56 
window  tent,  30,  31 


Lamps,  heat  from,  20 
Land, 

filled  in,  146 

made,  146 
Lapham  lean-to  tent,  127 
Lattice  work,  48,  157,  158 


Lean-to  type, 

of  cottage,  159 

of  shelters,  47,  50 
Leather  coats,  213 
Linen  garments,  210 
Locust  posts,  148 
Loggia, 

construction  of,  172,  183,  185,  191, 
195 

converting  room  into,  83 

in  angle  of  house,  91,  93 

on  apartment  house,  66 

permanent,  81 

planning  of  new,  165,  171 

protection  of,  101 

second  storv,  83,  94,  177,  182,  184, 
190 
Log  house,  162 

with  open  room,  192 
Lumber, 

for  playgrounds,  204 

list  of,  for  shelter,  52 

M 

Material, 

corrugated  iron,  47 

for  bungalows,  45,  145 

for  cottages,  145 

for  shelters,  52 

for  tent  houses,  143 

lattice  work,  48,  157 
Mattresses, 

care  of,  236 

for  outdoor  sleeping,  223 
Metal  frames  for  tents,  141 
Metal  Screen  tent  house,  139 
Milletts',  Dr.,  cottage,  159 
Mott  window  tent,  34 
Mosquito  screens,  113 


N 


Netting, 
cloth,  113 
colored,  113 
hoops  for,  116 
saplings  for,  116 


246 


INDEX 


Netting, 

square  frames  for,  112,  114 

strengthening,  116 

wire,  117,  201,  206 
Novelty  siding,  151 


O 

Open  air  rooms, 

construction  of,  195 

draining  of,  195 

in  bungalows,  145 

in  cottages,  145 

in  frame  house,  177 

in  wing,  90 

on  seashore  house,  97 

over  entrance,  87 

planning  of,  165 
Outdoor  dining  room,  174,  183,  184, 
191 


Paper  blankets,  224 
Paquin's,  Dr.,  alcove,  101 
Parapet,  89 
Peak  roof, 

for  bungalows,  153 

for  cottages,  153 
Permanent  porches, 

protection  of,  81 

relation  to  house,  82 

situation  for,  81 

treatment  of  floors,  83 
Phillips  wall  house,  56 
Piers, 

for  bungalows,  148 

for  cottiigcs,  148 
Pillows, 

arrangement  of,  223 

care  of,  236 
Planning  open  rooms,  171 
Plans, 

o!  Dr.  C'arey's  porch,  78 

of  hoiiH(!  with  open  njoms,  175,  178, 
181,  183,  185,  187,  191,  195 


Plans 

of  log  house,  193 

of  Dr.  Paquin's  alcove,  101 

of  roof  shelter,  50 
Platform  for  tree  house,  163 
Playgroimds, 

construction  of,  204 

need  for,  196 
Plumbing,  167 

Pockets  for  sliding  sash,  85,  100 
Porch, 

brackets  for,  71,  77 

construction  of,  67,  77,  82 

in  angle  of  house,  93 

iron  frame,  58 

on  farmhouse,  89 

over  kitchen,  94 

permanent,  63,  81 

pillars  for,  100 

position  for,  67 

protection  of,  99 

sliding  sash  for,  101 

temporary,  64,  67 

trimmings  for,  88 

Troy,  75 

wind  shields  for,  80 
Posts 

for  piers,  148 

for  porches,  77,  82 
Pottenger's,  Dr.,  cottage,  157 
Protection, 

against  insects.  111 

cloth  screens  for.  111 

for  cold  weather,  99,  103,  105 

for  face,  220 

for  feet,  217 

for  head,  220 

for  moderate  weather,  107 

for  permanent  porches,  81,  84 

for  roof  playgrounds,  198,  201,  207, 
208 

from  sudden  storms,  103 

glass  and  sash,  84,  99,  101,  105,  179, 
183,  187,  189,  191 

Venetian  blinds  for,  38,  40,  97,  107, 
109,  110 
I'roviflencc  sleeping  bag,  234 
247  I 


INDEX 


R 

Rattan  furniture,  238 
Rawson's,  Mrs.,  sleeping  bag,  232 
Robin  Hood  sleeping  bag,  230 
Roof  bungalows,  41 

anchorage  of,  43 

construction  of,  45 

hollow  tile  for,  44,  45 

material  for,  45 
Roof,  gambrel,  178 
Roofing  material,  15'3 

protection  of,  41 
Roof  Playgrounds, 

construction  of,  200,  204 

curtajns  for,  206 

floors  of,  207 
•     flower  boxes  for,  199 

iron  fences  for,  207 

protection  for,  207 

steel  framework  for,  207 

walls  for,  208 

wire  netting  for,  206 
Roof  shelter, 

cheap,  47 

framework  for,  50 

lean-to  type,  46 

temporary,  47 
Roof  space,  for  fresh  air  buildings,  41 
Roofs, 

for  bungalows,  153 

for  cottages,  153 

of  extensions  for  playgrounds,  198 

treatment  of  under  side,  154 
Rooms, 

for  the  sick,  preparing,  168 

fresh  air,  on  roof,  42,  44 

heated  by  human  bodies,  20 


Sanitation  of  sites, 
for  bungalows,  146 
for  cottages,  146 
Sash  and  glass  protection,  84,  99,  101, 

105,  179,  183,  187,  189,  191 
Sash  counterweights,  100 

[  248  ] 


Sash  ventilators,  23 
Screening, 

against  mosquitoes,  113 

beds,  113 

tent  house,  139 

the  sickroom,  170 

with  cheese  cloth,  114 

with  scrim,  114 
Screens, 

Clauson's,  111 

cloth,  for  protection,  111 

frames  for,  117 

wire,  117 
Scrim,  screening  with,  114 
Scopes  and  Feustmann,  177,  182,  184, 

190,  194 
Scuppers  for  draining,  195 
Seashore  house,  97 
Servants'  bedrooms,  167 
Shades, 

arrangement  of,  22 

for  weather  protection,  108 

rollers  for  curtains,  107 
Shelters  on  roofs,  41,  46 
Shingles,  preserving,  153 
Shoes,  217 
Shutters,  56,  58 
Shoulder  cape,  219 
Sickroom,  screening  the,  170 
Silk  garments,  210 
Sites, 

for  bungalows,  145 

for  cottages,  145 

for  roof  shelters,  41 

sanitation  of,  145,  165 
Sitting  room,  89,  188,  189 
Slab  houses,  162 
Slate, 

for  bungalows,  153 

for  cottages,  153 
Sleeper,  "In  and  Out,"  101 
Sleeping  bags,  230 

for  babies,  232 

home-made,  234 

Kenwood,  231 

Providence,  234 

Robin  Hood,  230 


INDEX 


Sleeping  porch. 

Tents, 

inexpensive,  85 

floors  for,  125 

iron  frame,  58 

for  roof  playgrounds,  201 

on  brick  house,  179 

frames  for,  121,  126 

on  rear  of  house,  90 

inlets  for,  131,  134 

on  small  house,  186 

metal  frames  for,  122 

over  summer  kitchen,  94 

on  city  roofs,  119 

Sliding  frames,  101 

roof  of,  126 

Sliding  sash,  100 

roof  ventilation  for,  131,  134 

pockets  for,  85 

screening  of,  117 

Square  frames,  112,  114 

ventilation  for,  131,  134 

"Stamook"  wall  house,  56 

wainscoting  for,  127,  129 

Stickley,  Gustav,  179,  186,  192 

wind  breaks  for,  120 

Stone, 

Tent  houses. 

for  bungalows,  153 

brown  duck  for,  137 

for  cottages,  153 

construction  of,  137,  138,  142 

Storms,  protection  from,  103 

ceiling  of,  138 

Storm  sash,  167 

floor  for,  135,  138,  140 

Stucco, 

Kenyon,  137 

for  bungalows,  153 

list  of  material  for,  143 

for  cottages,  153 

Metal  Screen,  139 

Summer  kitchen,  porch  over,  94 

screening  for,  139 

Supports  for  tree  houses;  163 

steel  frame  for,  139 

U.  S.  M.  H.,  141 

T 

Tile,  45,  153 

Tables,  240 

Tin,  153 

Temporary  porches. 

Toilets  in  houses,  167 

cost  of,  73 

Tracks,  101 

for  country  use,  67 

Tree  houses,  160 

general  description  of,  67 

supports  for,  163 

illustrations  of,  68 

Trimmings  for  porches,  88 

positions  for,  67 

Troy  porch. 

Tenement  houses. 

construction  of,  77 

iron  porches  for,  60 

material  and  cost  of,  75 

Vanderbilt  open  stair,  61 

Tubular  rods,  106 

wooden  porches  for,  60,  63 

Tucker  tent,  133 

Tent, 

Fisher,  123 

XJ 

Gardner,  129 
Lapham  lean-to.  127 
Tucker,  133 

Ulrich  tent,  131 
Underclothing,  213 

Ulrich,'l31 

U.  S.  M.  H.  tent  house,  141 

with  canvas  doors,  123 

with  glass  front,  127 

V 

Tents,  119 

Vanderbilt  tenements,  61 

base  for,  127,  129,  133 

Venetian  blinds,  38,  40,  97,  107,  109, 

cost  of,  121 

110 

249 


INDEX 


Ventilation,  19 

Wheels  for  frames,  101 

cross,  21 

Window, 

for  hot  weather,  25 

awnings,  38 

in  bedrooms,  24 

barring,  24 

in  tropical  countries,  25 

shades,  22 

of  houses,  167 

Wind  shields,  23,  80 

simple  methods  of,  21 

Window  tents,  26 

Aerium,  37 

Aerolo,  35 

Allen,  29 

W 

Farlin,  35 

Wall  houses,  54 

for  healthy  persons,  26 

Knopf's,  Dr.,  56 

home-made,  26 

Phillips,  56 

Knopf's,  Dr.,  30 

position  for,  54 

manufactured,  27 

security  of,  56 

Mott,  33 

"Starnook",  56 

purpose  of,  26,  29 

Walls, 

varieties  of,  27 

for  playgrounds,  208 

Walsh,  32 

of  bungalows,  150 

Wire  netting,  117,  201,  206 

of  cottages,  150 

Wooden  roller,  102 

Walsh  window  tent,  32 

Woodwork,  169 

250 


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